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Old 04-18-2013, 01:44 PM #16
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Looks great! A lot better than the 1st.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:57 PM #17
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Originally Posted by HokieRunner View Post
In terms of staining the box, I'd just use a brush and an even coat unless you're trying to simulate wood grain. You can simulate grain by overlapping coats and making some areas heavier than others. It really all depends on which look you're going for.
Thanks, I'm not really trying to simulate wood grain. I know its just MDF, but with the quality of the build, I'd like to do something nicer than just rattle can black, ya know. That said, I'm thinking that is the most convenient and easiest. I think for now, I'll just leave it bare and see what I decide on in the next few weeks.

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That box looks great! Yeah, MDF gets heavy in large quantities surprised no one makes them out of aluminum or fiberglass or something...

A little unrelated, but could we get some detail pics of your cargo net set-up? I remember a while ago someone said they were working on something like that for the 4Runner, but they never updated..
You're right, it got pretty heavy pretty quickly, I would have used other materials for this project but I'm all thumbs when it comes to anything but wood.
I'm happy to take extra pics of the cargo net, just let me know what you're looking for. I already have a couple rear view pics in my build thread cause someone else was asking if it created blind spots. I can get a couple attachment pics over the next few days if that helps. Just let me know what you're looking for.

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Originally Posted by viggen337 View Post
I like the idea of the hidden cubby, but I'm concerned that my wife may not be able to slide the unit out to access it while full. She will be driving it by herself occasionally, so it has to be more accessible for her. I may try to figure out a way to access mine from the rear seat area. Maybe I can modify the flap on the deck so that you can flip it out of the way temporarily.
Take a look at the pics I posted below for the detail on the double decker supports I mentioned earlier.

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Awesome router skillzz man! I'm a cheap router bit buyer and always obliterate a good bit of what im trying to make look good lol. quick question, had you thought of using some stainless piano hinge instead of the three separate hinges? this box looks super functional and i dig the build quality!
Thanks, I considered a piano hinge, but I was really trying to be a minimalist when it came to hardware on this build. I had the same type of hinges on my last box and they served me well. I think the piano hinge would have been a little overkill in this situation since the flip up lid is only 8" deep

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That is awesome, and definitely an upgrade from your first setup which I also loved, nice work man
Thanks, I really took a lot more time to make sure I was doing it right. I still made a couple mistakes, but no one will notice them but me. In fact, the front pull holes are twice as wide as they were supposed to be. You've heard of measuring twice and cutting once, right? This is true, but you should always make sure you erase your first measurement mark, otherwise you might cut in the wrong place, like I did. Now that it's all done, I kind of like the bigger openings, but that doesn't keep me from shaking my head at myself when I see them.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:04 PM #18
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I had a little time this afternoon to clean up some of the details I mentioned on the last page. Below are some pictures.
Supports for access to the back cubby

These are also handy to use when installing the box so the shelf stays out of the way

Drawer Locks & Tie Downs


Tie Downs Secured with T-Nuts

Inside (the drawer) View

The pin is an even 1/2" so it stays in place nicely, but I could always use the pin if I really wanted to

Another shot from outside the box

And, my wife was doing some Spring cleaning and ran across a bunch of black fleece that she was going to use for another project. So, I cut that down to size and lined the drawers.

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Old 04-18-2013, 08:15 PM #19
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Can i offer to buy and ship a large shipment of yeungling in exchange for a similar box? Plenty around here in NJ outside of Philly!!!
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:35 PM #20
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That looks awesome Jeff! Lots of thoughtful details and great craftmanship. Congratulations!

One thought about the final finish- My box is MDF as well and I sprayed it with Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner (can get it at Home Depot). It has held up VERY WELL. Despite dragging stuff across it over and over it still looks new and it actually seems to make the MDF stronger- kind of like a thin plastic shell coating type thingy...

Anyway, keep it up. Look forward to the finished product. You have me re-thinking my box now. Dammit!
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:12 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Driftwood View Post
You're right, it got pretty heavy pretty quickly, I would have used other materials for this project but I'm all thumbs when it comes to anything but wood.
I'm happy to take extra pics of the cargo net, just let me know what you're looking for. I already have a couple rear view pics in my build thread cause someone else was asking if it created blind spots. I can get a couple attachment pics over the next few days if that helps. Just let me know what you're looking for.
Mostly looking at how you secured the net, it looks pretty solid. My concern is that it's not as sturdy as it appears, I never really stressed the handles out but I am not sure they are that loadbearing. They're anchored into the roof with plastic expansion anchors if I remember right, only reason I bring it up is because I figure you're using the net to arrest cargo in the event of a sudden stop and/or accident.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:16 AM #22
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this is the best set up I have seen by far. Awesome work, looks great. I need to make somethin asap. I hate having things rolling around.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:43 AM #23
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Originally Posted by jimmied View Post
Can i offer to buy and ship a large shipment of yeungling in exchange for a similar box? Plenty around here in NJ outside of Philly!!!
I will do almost anything for Yuengling! I know it doesn't mean much to you guys that can get it whenever they want, but since it is like the forbidden fruit here in MO, I just want it more. Since I cracked the one in the picture, I finished my last 12 pack and told my wife we need to take another road trip to Nashville, since that is the closest place to get more...

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That looks awesome Jeff! Lots of thoughtful details and great craftmanship. Congratulations!

One thought about the final finish- My box is MDF as well and I sprayed it with Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner (can get it at Home Depot). It has held up VERY WELL. Despite dragging stuff across it over and over it still looks new and it actually seems to make the MDF stronger- kind of like a thin plastic shell coating type thingy...

Anyway, keep it up. Look forward to the finished product. You have me re-thinking my box now. Dammit!
Thank you! I think I used some of that bed liner stuff on my last box and it worked great as protection. I have been debating with myself on weather to try and stain it and risk messing it up, or just go with what I know and paint it black again.
Re-thinking the plan is easy, its changing and re-building that gets complicated and expensive. I spent more time with pencil and paper than I did with wood and saws on this build. Last time I just kind of went at it willy nilly and didn't really think it through as well as I did this time. Anyway, if I can get any other measurements that would help, let me know.

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Mostly looking at how you secured the net, it looks pretty solid. My concern is that it's not as sturdy as it appears, I never really stressed the handles out but I am not sure they are that loadbearing. They're anchored into the roof with plastic expansion anchors if I remember right, only reason I bring it up is because I figure you're using the net to arrest cargo in the event of a sudden stop and/or accident.
The net is secured to the handles. Which are not load bearing. However, in my opinion, it is very secure and I'm not worried about it failing in a worst case scenario.
Keep in mind that the net is fluid, not rigid like the metal grates. So, if something does hit it, it will give a little and catch the object instead of just rejecting it like a ball hitting a wall if that makes sense.
I actually got the net because we have an infant in a rear facing car seat and the fire department recommended getting a barrier or tying everything done that goes in and out of the cargo area. Anyone that has young kids knows that time is a premium and it isn't always practical to take the time to tie everything down. So, I figured the barrier was the way to go. I hope we never have to put it to the test, but for the price I figured we were better safe than sorry

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this is the best set up I have seen by far. Awesome work, looks great. I need to make somethin asap. I hate having things rolling around.
Thanks, that's why I build mine. I was sick of stuff rolling around and having a mess back there. This is a very practical solution to the open cargo area that SUV drivers have to deal with.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:34 PM #24
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So, just a quick little update.
I am loving the new box, it is completely silent back there. I think the fleece lining, drawer slides and locking pins are responsible for that.

Now if I could just figure out how I want to coat this thing, I'd be golden
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:27 PM #25
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Another question, if you don't mind. I don't have the double decker system. How well do you think a box with your dimensions would stay in place without that system? I'm trying to figure out if I just want to build it and set it in there, or if I should take and cut a piece of plywood like that cargo area and attach it to that. Any insight would be greatly appreciated
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:29 AM #26
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Another question, if you don't mind. I don't have the double decker system. How well do you think a box with your dimensions would stay in place without that system? I'm trying to figure out if I just want to build it and set it in there, or if I should take and cut a piece of plywood like that cargo area and attach it to that. Any insight would be greatly appreciated
That is an interesting question. I considered both removing the cargo shelf and just leaving it down and bolting to it, as you mentioned. But, I didn't really like either idea. I finally decided on rebuilding another version that fits under the shelf.

As far as movement is concerned, it really doesn't move much. It is the exact width of the cargo area, so it doesn't have room to move left to right and there is really only an inch, maybe inch and a half between the end of the box and tailgate, so that isn't a big concern either. It kind of depends on what you're planning on keeping in there. The heavier it is, the less it will move.

I think your issue would be with it "jumping" as you go over bumps, etc. Its not a big deal, but one of my goals was to eliminate the sound of things shifting back there as I drove.

I'm sure some would have you believe that you need to secure it in case of an accident/rollover, etc. Which, fundamentally is true, but in reality, I think this thing is way too big to become a projectile in a situation like that. If I didn't have the cargo shelf, I would probably cut a piece of 3/4" plywood the size of the whole cargo area and use the left and right tie downs to bolt it in place, then secure the box to the plywood to avoid drilling into the cargo floor.

You'd be "wasting" your only two tie downs, but you can bolt as many as you like to your box. Or, you could just put the box back there and run a ratchet strap from left to right over the front of the box, but that would eliminate the possibility of a flip up lid, unless you wanted to undo/redo the ratchet strap every time you wanted to get in there.

Sorry for the long winded response, just thinking out loud
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:00 AM #27
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Love it! That's the same idea I had basically, I was wondering ow you had access to that rear cubby until I saw the picture. I'm going to be building something similar so thank you a ton for the dimensions! The only thing I may add is a power outlet on the side and have the wiring hidden coming up from under the carpet, not sure how that would work with drawers...but it's an idea of mine since I run a business outta the back of the truck. Was that out of one sheet of MDF?

Thanks and it looks great!
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:37 AM #28
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Love it! That's the same idea I had basically, I was wondering ow you had access to that rear cubby until I saw the picture. I'm going to be building something similar so thank you a ton for the dimensions! The only thing I may add is a power outlet on the side and have the wiring hidden coming up from under the carpet, not sure how that would work with drawers...but it's an idea of mine since I run a business outta the back of the truck. Was that out of one sheet of MDF?

Thanks and it looks great!
Thanks, glad you like it.
I used 2 standard sized sheets of MDF, one in 1/2" and the other in 3/4"
I also have a 400W power inverter with two plugs that I haven't mounted yet because I am still trying to figure out how to coat this thing (paint or stain) I'll probably end up mounting it to the right side of the outer shell. If you use drawer slides, like I did, there is about an inch of space between the outer shell and inner drawer to run wires.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:59 AM #29
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Sweet, ill have the drawers so I may just make custom stud power points or something. I would do a bed liner, or carpet the outside of it for an OEM look if it was me
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:14 AM #30
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Yeah, I'm thinking a combination of bed liner and spray paint will probably be the best direction for me.
I've considered carpet, but with the rear cubby and flip up lid, that can get a bit complicated and I want the finished product to look as good as possible.
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