[bigskyeric]

Hello Everyone.

I just picked up my 04 Limited in Galactic Grey Mica on saturday morning from the local VW dealership. 181,000 miles, but... in perfect shape. The dealership had it on their lot for 3 months and wanted $13,500 for it. But the miles obviously scared off everyone who looked at it. I walked out the door paying $8800 cash. It was well taken care of by the dealership in Washington state, where it came from, and was maintained by the local toyota dealership as recent as 20k miles ago. It came with brand new tires, new brakes, and shocks. I've driven a brand new 08 4 runner and I can honestly say my 04 feels and drives as good as a brand new one.

I sold my 01 BMW 740il last week, and so far, I am very impressed with my 4runner. I know 181k is a lot of miles, but I was looking at a car that would hold its value and something worth repairing. And the reviews I've read about the 4runner have been overwhelmingly positive. It truly is a perfect Minnesota car.

A little background on my ownership history. This is my 41st car (I'm in my mid 30s) I've bought and sold cars as a hobby for years, most of which have been hondas. The cars I've owned the longest over the years are my 64 Chevy Corvair convertible. I've had it for 20 years and will never get rid of it. An Acura CL-S (3 year) a 90 Prelude (4 years) and my 740IL lasted me almost 3 years. Everything else was a year or less of ownership.

So far I've ran across 2 issues with the 4runner. One being, it won't go into 4 low. I've read a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer will solve this issue.

And the second, after driving it about 100 miles the check engine light came on, and seconds later the VSC Lights came on. I've read this is most likely due to Catalytic Converters. (expensive) I can say I am upset Toyota would have such a flaw in the design that the stability control goes out because of the CEL. I'm under the impression it's the O2 sensors failing. As the car runs fine, idles fine, has lots of power and got almost 22 mpg yesterday.

My questions are: Who here has experienced the 4low issue and did you fix it? How many people replaced the O2 sensors after thinking their Cats were bad. What other common issues should I be looking for and should maintain now before something goes wrong. What is the preferred engine Oil/filter? preferred power steering fluid? And lastly, is the avg mpg meter on the dashboard accurate?

My to do list is fairly small so far. Change the front/rear diff fluids and transfer case fluid. Oil Change and power steering fluid is dirty. And of course, figure out the CEL cause.

Thanks Everyone! I look forward to getting to know all of you.

-Eric

[scrambler1]

Being the owner of an 06 sr5 v6, I am new too, but I can tell you the mpgs are not accurate. Mine seems to be off by about 2mpg, which I kinda expected ( my wife's sonata is off the same amount in its calculation. I'm sure the recommendation is gonna be a high quality synthetic for the oil with an good quality filter. As far as the 4lo issue, what led you to believe it was not going into gear

[wolf4runner]

for problem not going 4low, search "not going 4low" , see if you can find solutions suit you.

[bigskyeric]

Originally Posted by scrambler1

Being the owner of an 06 sr5 v6, I am new too, but I can tell you the mpgs are not accurate. Mine seems to be off by about 2mpg, which I kinda expected ( my wife's sonata is off the same amount in its calculation. I'm sure the recommendation is gonna be a high quality synthetic for the oil with an good quality filter. As far as the 4lo issue, what led you to believe it was not going into gear

When you engage the vehicle into 4 low, nothing happens. And the 4 low light blinks and beeps. I read this means the actuator is stuck. And a good firm blow from a dead stop hammer will loosen it.

[Red]

I'd pull the code for that check engine light before replacing anything. That will narrow it down for you. Could be a faulty gas cap for all you know.

The MPG read out is usually 1-2 MPG off. mine displays worse gas mileage than what I am actually getting so it was nice to find that out.

For oils and filters just go with synthetic, and oem filters. Can't go wrong with following what the manual recommends.

[bigskyeric]

Originally Posted by Red

I'd pull the code for that check engine light before replacing anything. That will narrow it down for you. Could be a faulty gas cap for all you know.

The MPG read out is usually 1-2 MPG off. mine displays worse gas mileage than what I am actually getting so it was nice to find that out.

For oils and filters just go with synthetic, and oem filters. Can't go wrong with following what the manual recommends.

What weight syn oil would you prefer at 181k? Im a mobil 1 guy myself, but open to suggestions.

[bigmoose]

Can't go wrong with Mobil 1...I'd stick with 5-30W.

On the 4 low issue...did you try putting it in reverse?

[Red]

Originally Posted by bigskyeric

What weight syn oil would you prefer at 181k? Im a mobil 1 guy myself, but open to suggestions.

Probably just one of their High mileage 5w-30's

If I remember correctly the manual recommends 5w-30.

I've heard good things about Amsoil if you're looking for new brands but you can't go wrong with Mobil-1.

[Synister]

For 4LO, make sure you are following the correct procedure (stopped, foot on brake, in Neutral). Many have had success with the rubber mallet method, taking it apart to fix is not nearly as simple as you might think and actuator replacement is pretty expensive. Stick with 5w-30 (I like Pennz Platinum) and OEM filters. For the check engine, check the gas cap first. There are any number of relatively simple issues that can cause this so do some searching here and check the easy ones first. Also, the mpg guage lies.

[bigskyeric]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I did try the standard procedure for 4low with no luck. I'll be changing the oil here in the next few days and will go with Mobil 1 most likely. I've never used amsoil, which I probably should as the company is based out of my area here in Duluth. I actually saw old Al Amotuzio at Outback steakhouse a few weeks ago. I've read that the actuator for 4lo is about $1300 for the part. But Ebay has several used Transfer cases for about $500 with shipping. Sadly, I think the electrician that rewired my basement stole my OBDII Reader. Either that or it grew legs and disappeared the same day he was in my house. So I'll need to purchase a new one to pull the code.

I noticed yesterday that there is Brake fluid around by rear drivers side rotor. And the vehicle has a very mild pull to the right when i hit the brakes. Hopefully just a loose bleeder.

Thanks again Everyone.

[WXman]

Mobil 1 oil is over-rated, and some experts even say it doesn't meet the specs. that most manufacturers call for these days. They are selling the name brand, not the product.

As far as the t-case issue...my advice is that if a hammer won't losen it up so that it'll work, look into replacing the entire t-case with a used one in working condition from a salvage yard because that will be cheaper than trying to pay for parts and labor to get it working. First 4R I test drove had the sticky t-case and the second one I test drove was starting to stick but thankfully I got it working.

[bigskyeric]

Originally Posted by WXman

Mobil 1 oil is over-rated, and some experts even say it doesn't meet the specs. that most manufacturers call for these days. They are selling the name brand, not the product.

As far as the t-case issue...my advice is that if a hammer won't losen it up so that it'll work, look into replacing the entire t-case with a used one in working condition from a salvage yard because that will be cheaper than trying to pay for parts and labor to get it working. First 4R I test drove had the sticky t-case and the second one I test drove was starting to stick but thankfully I got it working.

Other than the hammer trick, what did you do to keep it working? Is there a certain oil I should use? Conditioner products? etc?

[wadle5]

Originally Posted by bigskyeric

Other than the hammer trick, what did you do to keep it working?

Once you get it to engage, the best way to keep the actuator to continue working is to engage your 4wd at least once a month. They usually stick when they are not used often. When I first bought mine, it took a while to engage(2-4 minutes) Now with engaging it as LEAST once a month for the heck of it or driving off the pavement it will engage in under a minute. Good luck!

[WXman]

^^ Yes.. the best medicine is USE. These machines are made to be used...not to sit idle. The reason they stick is because people never use the transfer case settings.

[trailrazer]

Nice... that's a good deal. It's a Toyota, it'll run for many more miles. Since it was from Washington state... they don't salt the roads so no underbody corrosion to deal with.