So just a heads up if changing your tensioner pulley. I found out the hard way it's reverse thread! Yup I stripped it now changing the whole tensioner not fun

Thank you! I'm about to change mine. You just saved me.

I've got a handful of pullies. If yall need some... And I believe I have one bracket for that tensioner pulley.

V8 or V6? It looks like the FSM warns you that the V8 has left-handed threads but the V6 doesn't say anything.

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Hi cmoore,

Just found this thread as I was planning to replace mine as well. So were you able to replace just the tensioner pulley? If so, could you tell me how you did it?

Thanks.

I was not able to replace the pulley. I put the old one back in. The new pulley is thicker than the old one and requires a longer mounting bolt. I ordered the longer bolt from the dealership and attempted to install it without success. The new longer bolt is threaded the opposite direction from the old bolt making it impossible to mount it. I'm assuming the new pulley and bolt will only mount to a new/upgraded tensioner assembly. Did they reverse the threads on the newer tensioner assembly? I think that there was some sort of tensioner pulley TSB/ upgrade, but I can't cant remember. I'm glad you brought this up, I need to figure this out.

Just for clarification, the (original) old shorter bolt loosened to the right and tightened to the left. The new longer bolt loosens to the left and tightens to the right.

90% of tensioner pulley's are held on with a left hand threaded bolt. they are mounted like this because the pulley spins counter clockwise or to the left. If the pulley was held on with a right hand thread bolt the pulley itself would back the bolt out and let your belt go flying.

I've found from personal experience that a lot of local parts stores have the wrong size pulley part number. So when you go to do the job have a buddy take you to the part store so you can compare the pulley's in house before purchase to make sure you have the right one and that it will mount accordingly to your tensioner. (or replace both the tensioner and the pulley as one unit they both have seen the same conditions and likely both need attention)

to remove the pulley or tensioner. place a wrench (14mm i believe going from memory) on the tensioner pulley bolt you should be able to rotate it in a direction that loosens the drive belt. whith one hand holding the wrench and tensioner loose, use the other hand to slide the belt off of one of the upper pulley's on the front of the engine. (at this point you can remove the drive belt or you can just leave it somewhat in place just so you can remove the tensioner pulley without the belt interfering.)

removed the tensioner pulley bolt it should not take much force to turn the bolt about 80-90 footpounds of torque. So if turning it to the right (clockwise with that much force doesnt loosen it, turn it counter clockwise and wha-la your pulley is off and ready to be replaced.

Tensioner bolts are easy once someone says the below to you.

You can never loosen a tensioner bolt in the direction you press to remove tension from the belt. Reason being is ...you'd loosen the bolt instead of remove tension. Therefore always turn the opposite direction that you need to push in order to install the belt.

I know..once someone says it.. you wonder why ohhhh why it didn't appear obvious while you were destroying yours.

Does anyone know the correct diameter for the tensioner pulley? I'm looking around and only finding replacement tensioner pulleys that are 90MM while the stock one I took off is closer to 100MM

What tensioner pulley were you able to find as a replacement? Having a tough time finding the correct pulley, the ones I found ended up not fitting, Napa and advanced auto’s pulleys has a ton of play when bolted up.

Yeah don't use that pulley you bought thinking you need a longer bolt. That pulley is actually more recessed than the other two for some design reason. If you just get a longer bolt, the serpentine belt won't ride on it squarely.
BTW I just tried loosening it CCW when doing my heads last month.

Also, careful with the loctite on the pulley bolt threads. Mine seeped into one of my pulleys and seized it up.

Unless the pulley itself is showing significant wear, it is usually best to just buy good replacement bearings and keep the pulleys. The only downside is you need a press, or know someone that has one, and the appropriate spacers that fit the OD of the bearing so that when you press the new ones in you only press on the outer race. If you press on the inner race, or seal, you’ll wreck the new bearing. Mine are starting to make noise on cold mornings, so I’ll probably just go this route since the universal replacements almost never fit correctly.

Does anyone have the part number for the belt tensioner pulley only?