Here are some tips I want to pass on based on my experience installing the front 5100 Bilsteins and FJ Spring.
The summary of this job goes like this:

1. Jack up car
2. Disconnect sway bar
3. Loosen bolts of strut.
4. Pull strut out.
5. Install new strut.
......

For 2: when you loosen the sway bar connection to the knuckle the rod will rotate. Use a 6mm Allen wrench to stop it from turning.

I have problems with step 4 and 5. The strut does not come out easily. Trust me, untightening the far bolt on the top was not an issue as I have read many times. A ratchet wrench works wonders to loosen these screws.
My first recommendation is to cover the CV boot with a rag or some type of protection. I have already read about many people damaging them. I used the boot of old bluejean pants to protect the CV.

For 5: I was able to take the strut out of the suspension by turning it over and over between the steering and drive shafts. Had to move the steering a bit and push the A-arm slightly down with a jack. Not pretty but it worked.
My recommendation, which I did on the other wheel, is to disconnect the lower A-arm. I had to do this to be able to assemble the new strut/FJ spring anyway. Disconnect the lower A-arm by loosening the two bolts connecting it to the joint attachment. Loosen the two outer bolts, not the one with the slots and cotter pin. I used a 2' breaker bar and came off easily. Be aware that you will need to torque these bolts to 166 ft-lb. After the lower A-arm is out of the way there is plenty of space to easily take the strut out.

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I installed/compressed the springs on my own. Purchased the OME 25550 strut spring compressor from AutoZone, I think for $20. The compressor worked well. I was a bit scared based on the posts I read, but all look in good shape and strong while I was doing it. I set my Bilsteins to 1.75" so I had to compress the FJ springs quite a bit for them to fit.

For 6: if you disconnect the lower A-arm as I explained above, you can easily get the strut in. Otherwise, I have no idea how you will get the strut in. You still have to lever the A-arm down to fit the strut. I used a combination of a bottle jack, as shown in the picture, and a pray bar. You will get the bottom of the strut on top of the lower arm and keep pushing and levering down until you can fit the bolt through. Use a piece of wood between the fender and top of the jack. Is doable alone, but a helping hand would have made things easier.

Tighten all back to spec. The A-arm bolts go to 166 ft-lb, the three top strut screws go to 47 ft-lb. I was able to fit my torque wrench in one, and then tighten the other two without the torque wrench but using approximately the same force (and same lever).
The lower strut bolt goes to 100 ft-lb. The sway bar attachment goes to 52 ft-lb, and the sway bar attachment to the chassis goes to 30 ft-lb.

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And after one month.... read here for lift before/after: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engine...ml#post1430314
Basically, 2" lift in front after it settled 1/4" after a month.

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Thanks for the write up.

Those front coils are different from the ones you posted here. Was that just a picture you found? The coils in that thread have an extra wind. The coils in this thread have the same number with perhaps a little bit extra. I just bought some coils from a 2013 FJ 4x4 that look more like the ones in the other thread. The color coding is different and they're still on the strut, but they definitely have an extra wind. Do you know anything about that?

Also, how much lift did you get?

Thanks.

Good point JB, i guess i uploaded the wrong picture. The picture i posted here are the ones that were in my 4runner from factory. I will fix the picture once i am back home.

I forgot to post the total lift. It was 2 1/4 in the front having the Bilstein set at 1.75. Check this post for the measurements, http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engine...ml#post1430314

Just an observation-

Those A-arm bolts should have red loctite applied before tightening them down.

Nice writeup!

Good point Antman, forgot to add that. I automatically use the permatex anti-seize in every bolt, specially here in Wisconsin with all that road salt over the winter.

Do you have any "final result" pics? I've gone through a few of your posts and can't find any pictures of the whole truck. I am going for something similar, FJ/1.75 + 1" cornfed in rear.

Well, you may be right. I guess I never posted pictures of the truck. I bought a pair of 0.75" Cornfed spacers plus air bags. I have not had time to install yet, hopefully in December. I will try taking some pictures and post them.

I am sure many members will appreciate pictures, but no worries if you can't, already did my lift.