I'm a functional newb as far as mechanics go. Before I started this project, I found as many installation tips as I could, but couldn't find any fully-illustrated instructions, so I figured I'd post this. Hope it's useful....


Tools:
Wheel Chocks
Lug wrench
4Runner's provided bottle jack
2 Jack stands
17mm wrench
19mm wrench
Wrecking bar
Rubber mallet

1. Chock front wheels, apply parking brake and loosen lug nuts on both rear tires. Raise both sides of the rear as high as the 4Runner's bottle jack will take it, resting each side on jack stands.

2. Remove tires.


3. Loosen the top strut nut about 5 quarter turns, then remove the lower strut bolt completely. Use a wrecking bar to pry the strut off the axle.


NOTE: The Daystar instructions say to remove the front end of the pan hard bar (pictured below), but it was a hassle for one person to get it back in place, and it's simply not a necessary step. I bypassed this step on my other side and had no problems.


4. As pictured, (and brilliantly suggested by bulldog) place the 4Runner's bottle jack on top of the axle, pressing up against the rubber bump stop. Extend the jack until you can remove the spring by hand.


5. The Daystar spacer lift goes in between the top of the spring (which fits into the spacer's groove) and the original cone-shaped bump stop.


6. Put the spring back in place, leading with the top. You may need to extend the bottle jack a little more due to the added height of the spring, but you shouldn't have to pry the spring into place as the Daystar instructions suggest.

7. Remove the bottle jack from the axle, then place it on the floor under the axle and start to lift the axle until the strut can be reattached to it. Use a rubber mallet to hammer the bottom of the strut back into place. If that doesn't work within a few hits, raise the axle a little more and try again. Reattach the lower strut bolt, and tighten the upper nut.


8. Get under there so you can see the top of the spring. Make sure it's seated properly.


9. Repeat steps 3-8 on the other side.

10. Put the tires back on, lower the 4Runner, tighten the lugs, remove the chocks, take after pics, then drive to, and over, the nearest rock.

11. Recheck the tightness of the strut bolts after 500 miles.

Nice writeup- but in the interest of keeping things as accurate as possible:

You didn't take off the panhard rod bolt. You removed the trailing arm bolt. That's why it was so hard to get the bolt back in!

Absolutely.

It was much easier for me to remove the 1 i think 19mm, bolt on the driver side of the track arm, i would NOT advise removing the lower links and if you do, you should ratchet strap the axle to the frame so that it stays in place.

Would removing both shocks first make the axle movement easier? Doing my install soon.

I removed the panhard bar bolt, unbolted sway bar ends, unbolted the brake line bracket on the center of the pumpkin. Shocks can be unbolted one side at a time.
If you remove the brake line bracket, the axle can be lowered one side at a time and far enough for the spring to just fall out. FJ springs will go in with no effort, not sure about a spacer setup.

Old post I know. But my FJ coils have finally settled down after a couple thousand miles and now have a slight front rake. I have front set at 1.75 and now in need of installing my daybreak 1.5 that I decided not to install a while back. This should make it perfect. Do I need to get another alignment?

@mauidiver , yes its suggested that anytime you do any suspension modifications you get an alignment.

I was afraid of that...dang!! Being broke sucks. Thanks

@mauidiver go to Firestone and sign up for that lifetime alignment. You only have to pay once like 150-200 or something and then can go as often as you want. It pays for itself especially if you modify and wheel constantly.

The 1.5 inch rear lift will decrease caster by about .8 degrees. It won't affect camber or toe, so if you can live with the decreased caster you should be OK. Tire wear won't be affected, but the vehicle might wander a bit more at speed.

So I just tried to install this kit on my 2016 trail and the rear iso wont fir into the spacer. I called daystar to verify measurements and part numbers and everything was correct. I also called toyota to verify they didn't change suppliers or part numbers for the springs or isolators. so I'm at a total loss as to why they wouldn't fit. Anyone advice would be greatly appreciated! The iso will kinda fit into the spacer if I bear all my weight on it and press it on but as soon as I lift off it pops out of the spacer. Since these are poly urethane you really don't want to try stretching them as they can tear relatively easily, this was confirmed by daystar. Please help.

Do you have to use longer shocks with a 1.5in spacer?

lol at disconnect of control arm.

Quick help pls!

Im doing the rear lift and the cone shape bump stop doesnt sit it the daystar spacer when the coil is out of the truck. Does it need to be compressed by the suspension to remain in???

as i understand it, the spacer should go between the coil and the cone shaped bump stop, but it doesnt fit properly. The bump stop does fit nicely if the spacer sits on top. Is this right? I dont get it!