Something doesn't add up here...

Those tires look stock, and a dealership is NOT going to put non-stock tires on a stock vehicle as a used car. They're gonna put the cheapest set of tires they can get away with, which means they're probably gonna go with the stock tire size.

Basing what the OP said, there's little too no reason he should have needed SpiderTraxx on his vehicle. Granted you can see there's an aftermarket lift kit installed (ToyTec from the looks of it), but that would not mean he needs the spacers. That just sort of set my suspicions on alert is all...

I also have to agree with some members who are stating that the OP might be at fault here. GShadow325 clearly explained some stuff pretty well; but the other thing people haven't seemed to ask/mention:

Did the OP check the torque on his wheels AFTER installing the spacers? I believe SpiderTraxx even tells you to check them after a week or so and re torque them. This is because as SunGod pointed out you add a layer of complexity to the assembly and this requires some extra attention. Just because you slap Loctite and torque them once doesn't mean they don't get loose; particularly if you DIDN'T clean the hub and so on that can cause it to work itself loose as the rust is crushed and the offset spacer has space to move.

I wonder if they were over torqued? Many people will use a torque wrench to "check" torque not realizing that just because it reaches that click doesn't mean its at that torque setting.

i.e. Use an impact gun to torque a bolt on max setting and hold it down for a good 10 seconds. Use a torque wrench to check the torque, hey it clicks at 30ftlbs, and 90ftlbs, and 120ftlbs, ect ect ect.

I have my suspicions based on what little information we have at the moment and would need a response from the OP...

At this point I'm ruling this as either the OP's potential Fault

and/or

An attempt to create a false precedent for a future litigation against SpiderTraxx or Set-up a false advertising campaign.

I am glad that no one was hurt. That is a very unfortunate situation.

As far as the wheel spacers, I think something was installed incorrectly. My self and friends have wheel spacers on our wheeling trucks, that get jumped, flopped, rolled, and just plain hammered on, and we have not had any issues (knock on wood). The wheel spacers I have are not even close to the quality of the SpiderTrax units. Installed correctly, there is really no difference between them, and running a wheel with less backspacing. Flush fit, and proper torque are key.

How about some close-up pics of the hub where the studs pulled out/broke off??

I dont get it...why do the rotors look clean and no gouges in the pavement?!?!?!

I would expect much more visual damage at 80 MPH

Im going to assume the OP will not post any close up pics....

Shit I just typed up a long reply on my phone that didn't post. Ah well. If I can get to a computer while at work I will repost my reply

Ghs215...worthless? Come on dude.

still betting on installed with a gun and over torqued many times prior to you.

It can possibly be. Since it was a used car. It could have been stretched before. I can't say many home mechanics are like me with a whole assortment of snap on tools and a 75 gallon air tank. If op installed it himself, I would guess he didn't have access to air.

Okay...got to a computer so I can type faster. Let me see if I can cover everything.

• Regarding the process of getting the truck to stop, I held very firm, steady pressure on the brakes and held the wheel with both hands. What helped is that I was on a very level, straight stretch of highway. What also helped was my lift. The additional ground clearance definitely helped once I was riding on the front rotor. Had I not had the lift, the front end could have very well been grabbed by the pavement and caused a ton of control problems. Somehow, the fact that the road was wet from a recent downpour didn't make things worse.
• I torqued all lug nuts with a torque wrench properly adjusted to the settings in the instructions...between 90-100. And yes, I know how to adjust it as I use one for work.
• GHS, my bad I couldn't see your "this thread is worthless without pics" smiley on my tapatalk app. My bad
• I am not trying to bash Spidertraxx or trying to start a lawsuit, but that theory sounds legit!
• I have gone over the scenario over and over again (the install and the accident) and remembered something. The lug nuts that were supplied to attach the spacers to the stock studs were supposed to be installed with a specific side facing the brake rotor. On the wheel that came off, I installed those lugs facing away from the rotor. The other 3 were installed as per the instructions. It would be very easy to presume this was the cause of the studs shearing. If installing an open-ended lug nut the wrong direction would cause a failure then I say that sucks. My fault, they should be able to be installed both ways. I have to agree that my studs may have been overtorqued in the past. I did buy it a month ago with 114k miles.
• Regarding the tires, they are larger than stock. Stock sidewall is a 65 and the Falken's the Ford dealership put on are 70s...more specifically, 265/70/17 Rocky Mountains
• I am being taken care of by State Farm. I fricking love them
• BIG THANKS to all of you who extended warm comments about my health and safety. I didn't think it was as big of a deal at the time. Between my wife, the tow truck driver, the claims person @ State Farm, the collision center guy, and the service rep at the dealership, I was made very aware that I was lucky to be alive and/or that the 4Runner was not upside down in a ditch and totaled.

If I missed something, let me know.

Oh...and and the spacer was completely torqued to my rim when I found it. The stock studs were completely sheared at the rotor. I don't have anymore pics unfortunately

Thanks for clearing things up. Yes, by you installing the lugs reversed will cause the wheel to get very loose and eventually shearing the bolts and wheel falling off

I have to agree that this is plausibly the correct answer (although obviously we can't recreate to determine for sure).

Since the lug nuts are conical, I assume this help center the spacers onto the lugs making the spacers both hub and lug centric.

It seems to me that if the spacer was allowed to wobble around on the lugs (because it wasn't perfectly centered due to the lug nut not centering the stud) it could grind away the stud and allow movement for the wheel to have enough leverage to snap them off.

Hard to say. None of them were loose but since they were not installed as designed, it complicated things. I am replacing all existing studs on the other wheels and removing all of the existing spacers.

I am sorry for the OP's misfortune, though it certainly could have been worse. And insurance picking up the tab?! Sweet.

I must say, I'm a bit relieved to hear that it may have been a pretty clear case of installer error. I'll get 4wheelparts or someone to install for a few more dollars, check 'em a few times (probably a lot for the first few thousand miles), and hopefully not fear driving off a cliff as I head to the mountains all winter. I'll still probably drive slower, but that's not a bad thing anyway.

Holy smokes, the folks you spoke with are right about surviving that.

Also be sure to cross high speed three wheel stop off your list!!!