Well, this makes me leary to add spacers. But my wheels are practically buried in the fender wells. Decisions decisions

When installed properly they are just fine. I ran AllPro hubcentric spacers with the extended tip lug nuts fir a while and they were perfectly smooth running. I sold them when I changed wheels. Another member here is currently running them.

Clean the hub mounting surface to insure smooth & proper interface.
Use extended tip lug nuts on the front axle spacers.
Apply a slight ammount of loctite red-hi temp to the hub stud threads
Tighten the nuts in a star pattern (just like a wheel)
Use a torque wrench to insure they are properly torqued.
Recheck them after a couple hundred miles.

I am still pissed I installed that one damn lug but backwards. On a positive note, my new wheels and tires are being installed today to achieve the desired effect of widening my stance

I'm not a mechanic but made sure I had the right tools and followed directions to a T when installing Spidertrax (& FJ springs, etc.) 5 years and 43,000 miles ago. No problems, couldn't be happier.

2/2020 edit: Now 11 years and 105K+ miles since without issue

What brand/where do you recommend getting 1" spacers?

there must have been a problem somewhere before spacers......the wheel cant just fall off

i run NO NAME ebay 1.5'' spacers torqued to around 100lbs(instructions said 75 to 85)with blue color locktite without any problems at all.All studs are stock.....

i have been drifting in snow,mud,sand dry pavement(only a bit on dry )before heading out to a highway and putting my daughter into the vehicle without any problems.



there has to be a reason why this happened,either your mistake when installing those spacers,or rusted studs or hub or something,or maybe the spacers were not hub centric?regardless of what reason it is,there is something that was wrong............


glad everyone is ok and no one got hurt.....

It's a good discussion topic. I run hub-centric billeted aluminum 5/16" spacers. My research prior to install indicated that there should be at least 8 complete turns of the stock lugs when installing for the lowest risk of a lug coming loose. No issues in almost two years and I hammer it.

Why? Did you read the thread? It was installer error. And yes....I know this question was posted years ago....I'm replying b/c it seems as if some people didn't read that the OP installed the lug nuts backwards.

Over-torquing a fastener is just as bad as having it too loose. You stretch the bolt and fatigue it to the point that you can shear the lugs themselves or pull the threads out of the nut or off the shaft (most times, it just shears the bolt)...JFYI.

Okay yeah so I've already had spacers for a few months; they did fine. I no longer run them because I don't need to with my current wheel set up but I realize it was installer error. Thanks for your concern.


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Wasn't trying to be jerk....just pointing out that the problem wasn't the spacers for any future readers of the thread. Heck this thread is at least 3 years old and I just read it for the first time.

For the record, I've run 1.5" All Pro spacers way back when on my SAS converted '91 Hilux. No issues. However, I don't like them either.....mainly due to the increased scrub radius....but if you're not willing to do it right, spend the money and build a wider (probably custom) axle, spacers will at least allow you to match up the the rear axle (or vice versa) that you selected in a way that a lot of wheel backspacing options will not (i.e., most wheels in 17" for example are limited to 4" as the minimum backspacing). The days of being able to order up a 2-4" (in half inch or 1/4 inch increments) for a standard steel wheel are gone.

This happened to a buddy of mine on his Canyon. Wheel completely sheared away from the hub and it was the spacer. I think if you don't upgrade to the correct hub with linger bearings this is going to happen. I'm staying away from this for awhile


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The studs sheared or the wheel bearing seperated? I find it hard to believe the bearing failed so suddenly without signs before hand.

Someone mention torquing the wheels and adapters correctly, this is critical as bolts and studs are designed for a certain amount of elasticity. Once you go beyond that range, they become plastic and and stretch out but can no longer "Spring Back" and thus they will tend to break more easily. This is why you see lots of broken studs on wheels because people typically throw wheels on with impact guns and over torque the wheel nuts.

A good quick explaination of what I am saying:

http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/bolting-theory

So if I had wheels installed at a tire shop (with an air gun) then drive home and re-torque to spec, would I still have a problem because the bolts have already been stretched?


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Yes if the bolts were over tightened at the wheel shop. Keep in mind that even a cheapo 1/2" Impact can easily torque a wheel nut to over 100ft.lbs, the 4Runners are about 83ft.lbs if I remember, 90ft.lbs is probably the max I'd push it if you don't trust the factory numbers.

The point is that once the bolt is stretched/torqued beyond it's "Elastic" state, it becomes "Plastic" and won't return to it's original form as easily. This is sometimes obvious and other times something that you'd only see if you measured with a micrometer. A example of this is headbolts, most FSMs for all makes has you measuring the bolt at a couple points to verify it is within spec and reusable (if they call to reuse them) because of this very reason.

Now, if in your case the wheel shop used a torque stick to tighten the wheels; then most likely unless they really hammered on it, it should be in the ballpark. But even Torque Sticks are not as accurate as a Torque Wrench and if you're a twit you can over tighten with them.