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Old 01-07-2016, 11:48 PM #16
Badong Badong is offline
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Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc View Post
If 4Hi is working it should engage 4Lo, they are on the same shift rod IIRC.
AFAIK You're correct. Is it possible that my problem is electrical? Like it's sending power for 4-hi but not 4-lo. I can hear 4 hi engage and it works but I don't hear anything when I try 4 lo.

Hopefully I'll get a chance to get under there this weekend with my multi-meter.
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Old 01-08-2016, 12:22 AM #17
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Originally Posted by Badong View Post
AFAIK You're correct. Is it possible that my problem is electrical? Like it's sending power for 4-hi but not 4-lo. I can hear 4 hi engage and it works but I don't hear anything when I try 4 lo.

Hopefully I'll get a chance to get under there this weekend with my multi-meter.
It could be?
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:12 PM #18
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I'm not sure if my lack of knowledge can or will help, but since my 2006 Sport with V8 is in the shop right now for these reasons, thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.

So I unfortunately have 2 issues, first my center diff would not engage. 2nd, I also could not get 4Lo to engage.

To get 4Lo to engage a new switch was put in and now works. Unfortunately the center diff still does not engage...so sounds like the actuattor is getting replaced.

So I guess what I"m saying is if you have the V8 and you can't get in to 4Lo, it might be the switch on your dash.
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:54 AM #19
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I have the V6. I think the switch is fine since the 4-lo indicator flashes on the dash. I was thinking maybe there was a short on the way to the actuator.

I pulled the harness but there are way too many connections to try and determine which one is for 4-lo. I need to find a wiring diagram for that harness.
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:22 PM #20
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Welp. I tried all my tricks and charms but 4-lo will not engage.

Tying to convince myself that I don't ever use 4-lo and don't need it. Probably not worth the $863 for a new actuator. Just bugs me when my stuff doesn't function like it should!
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:05 PM #21
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Welp. I tried all my tricks and charms but 4-lo will not engage.

Tying to convince myself that I don't ever use 4-lo and don't need it. Probably not worth the $863 for a new actuator. Just bugs me when my stuff doesn't function like it should!
I hear ya...I've tried telling myself the same thing, but it just doesn't work. It's being fixed as I type.
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:56 AM #22
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I hear ya...I've tried telling myself the same thing, but it just doesn't work. It's being fixed as I type.
How bad was the bill?

If I do this at all, I'm planning to do it myself. Found a really solid DIY.
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:50 AM #23
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Originally Posted by Badong View Post
Welp. I tried all my tricks and charms but 4-lo will not engage.

Tying to convince myself that I don't ever use 4-lo and don't need it. Probably not worth the $863 for a new actuator. Just bugs me when my stuff doesn't function like it should!

I told myself that too. Worked for a solid 10 months, but then I caved.
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:30 PM #24
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So I"m told it's the encoder motor, not my actuator....$1700 for just the part!!! AHHHHHHHHH @BlackWorksInc can you confirm that is the cost for the part by chance?
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:35 PM #25
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So I"m told it's the encoder motor, not my actuator....$1700 for just the part!!! AHHHHHHHHH @BlackWorksInc can you confirm that is the cost for the part by chance?
What in the hell is an "encoder motor?" I'm guessing some portion of the actuator itself... In any case, yeah that's about the pricier side of the cost of the actuator (does that include labor to replace?) but the cheapest I have seen it is about $1200~1400 new.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:12 PM #26
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This is for the V6, not sure about the V8.

2003 Toyota 4Runner. #3641035093: ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY, TRANSFER SHIFT
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:25 PM #27
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Hard to believe the motor is actually shot. More likely just froze up with stiff grease from lack of activity. I'd pull the actuator off and disassemble it and see if I could free it up. It's not that complicated. It's just two motors (one for high/lo, and the other for 2wd/4wd), and some limit switches.
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1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:30 PM #28
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Hard to believe the motor is actually shot. More likely just froze up with stiff grease from lack of activity. I'd pull the actuator off and disassemble it and see if I could free it up. It's not that complicated. It's just two motors (one for high/lo, and the other for 2wd/4wd), and some limit switches.
Read the rest of the thread or any of the many others on the subject. You can pull it apart but NO ONE knows how to put it back together correctly.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:54 PM #29
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Read the rest of the thread or any of the many others on the subject. You can pull it apart but NO ONE knows how to put it back together correctly.
Well, I'm not going to pull mine apart just to prove I can put it back together again, but I'd sure try before I spent $1200+ on a new one.
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1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:42 AM #30
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Well, I'm not going to pull mine apart just to prove I can put it back together again, but I'd sure try before I spent $1200+ on a new one.
Hey if you've figured out how to properly synchronize all those gears please let us know. That would be freaking fantastic!

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