Lotus Development Chromoly jointed axles will be available on Feb 1st, 2014. Price is $1130/pair ($565/ea.)

An axle built up for those times on the trail when you find yourself pushing the angles on your CVs to pull past an obstacle. Greatly reduces the risk of breaking components in the outer CV joint.

OEM components for the inner, mid, and outer axle shafts, fully new machined chromoly cage and race in the outer joint to bringing balance back to the axle when rock crawling.

4th Gen 4runner, FJ Cruiser, and 2nd Gen Tacoma

Are you guys that wheel the 4th gens breaking many axles? What's your opinion on the Toyota OEM axles? From the guys I've wheeled with they seem stronger than the axles for the 3rd gens but I haven't had much wheeling time with built up 4th gens.

More info HERE on the LotusDevs.com site

...but a little rich for my blood

Great find. I haven't heard of many issues with 4th Gen CV axles. Not as much as 3rds anyway. I wheel some cheap aftermarket ones and so far, they've stood up to the punishment. Our main issues are with leaky boots. Once I repack and reboot my OE's, I'll have them as spares, since they're still good to go.

I think the_josh lost a CV shaft on one of his last trips on what was surely something very gnarly.

I broke a CV yesterday, and my buddy brike one in his FJ a couple weeks ago. Both were not OEM but they were the "tough one" from advance auto. They both broke shafts at the inner joint. Im not sure that the outer joint is the weak point. If the only difference on these is the outer joint then we both would have still broke the CV , then wed be out $500 + instead of $80. Im not saying yours aren't better but how can we address the weak point at the inner joint?

Honestly I would need to see a side by side comparison of various components to really make a decision. The picture looks pretty similar to the factory unit, honestly the few failures I saw on the forums here looked more like the inner joint and/or shaft snapped so I would be looking at those areas more for reinforcement?

Not doubting the product, but over a grand for a pair is pretty steep for what looks pretty close to factory off the top of my head.

straight axle

I blew up the inner joint as well but it was an aftermarket axle (not sure of the brand).

This! You guys do realize that if you strengthen the inner too much, you run the risk of transfering your weak point to the diff and toasting that sucker right? Which would you rather do: replace a cheap axle shaft or rebuild a diff? I've done both, so I know my answer. So has that guy ^^^

I agree, my problem isn't breaking axles, it happens, but id rather not break a $500 axle. If the actual weak point is the inner then why upgrade the outer ? Has anyone broken an outer yet ?

Thanks for the honest feedback everyone.

Do you know what brand the axles were? On my 3rd gen 4Runner, when I broke my 2nd axle, I replaced it with an axle with a lifetime warranty at Checker Auto and it was made by Cardone. Later Checker replaced the Cardone with Mastercraft. I broke and outer joint and an inner joint on the Cardone. Two of the mastercrafts had junk steel and the inner axle shafts broke off in the diff at the stub.

You might want to try a different brand axle. Maybe try Napa? They seem to do the best in the cheap replacement category from what I've heard (3rd gens feedback). The axles all seem to be pretty different in quality when it comes to aftermarket. I forgot the brand name that Autozone was carrying but I've known of them to bind at full droop so maybe avoid that one. This is all info from 3rd gen axles but it's somewhat relateable.

Cryo would be the least expensive way I know of to get some more strength from the axle. You can gain roughly 30% strength depending on the steel. If it really is the inner axle shaft that is consistently failing we'd be open to taking a look at it as an option.

Are the boots tearing because of the lift and greater CV angles?

or

are the convolutions (ribs) rubbing on each other and abrading through? Or some other reason all together?

It looks like a factory unit because we take a Toyota factory unit and replace the guts of the outer joint. The cage and race are replaced with thicker chromoly steel components. We've found the Toyota steel to be the strongest until you get into 4000 series, chromoly, etc.

Of the failures you saw do you remember what brand they were? Were they OEM or aftermarket? In my personal experience I've found a big difference in quality of steels.
Here's a good example of junk steel. This was in an aftermarket axle. This was a clean break at the shaft not the joint. Virtually no shock load on this. Not even much of an obstacle in my opinion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9Emw33O2G4


I've seen an outer break on a 4th gen 4Runner Toyota OEM axle. Steering was turned to driver's nearly all the way and had some pretty good droop on the passenger side. Slow and steady throttle to crawl up a rock. Grenaded the outer joint.

Boots are leaking due to the shaft side (smaller) clamps loosening caused by lift angle. In some cases they actually tear as well. I assume the cause is the same.

Also it looks like @the_josh 's outside failed. Not sure whether it was an OE unit or not. Maybe he'll chime in.

That is exactly what I was thinking when I read about how strong they are. I would buy a back up axle for $50 than shift my weak point into an area that can't be easily fixed on a trail. Not to mention the number of $50 axles I can buy for the price of one of those.

I have been summoned? Haha (I like this new feature)


I my outside ball bearing cage failed on my OEM CV. I've only ever used OEM axles. I completely agree with what superman said earlier in regards to rather having the CV fail versus the differential. A CV is a easy and cheap thing to fix (I always just buy used OEM axles versus remanufactured - they usually run about $120) I've only had one CV fail in 10 years so to me personally its not something that needs to be modified, it was my fault when it failed and I knew it was coming I was just exhausted. I look at the CVs kinda like a fuse. I would rather the fuse blow then burn out the whole electrical system same with a cv, I believe the were in a way to be very strong but not stronger than the differentials

This is exactly my situation. I am going to just go with an AutoZone complete because of my leaky boots then if the OE axle is good get OE boots and have it as a replacement. Haven't heard of many actually breaking the shaft.

@aha2988 rebuilt his with Tundra boots which are longer to possibly prevent the same failure. I will probably either go that route or do some silicone boots like CVJ axles does. They will also rebuild your OE axles and can upgrade the materials and customize lengths and stuff if you want. I'm sure for less than half a grand a pop. People that have used them here have been pleased. I may just send mine off to them since I've been to lazy to rebuild my own for last yeah and a half now.

Are your boots actually torn or has you clamp just opened up? Some people just re-clamp them. Maybe even shove a little more grease in with a syringe first.