I see in the "tundra solutions" link, they mention '04 and up model years.

Is this applicable on the '03??
I may look into the module if so..

This is only a potential issue with the 2005+ V8 4Runners. So you should be safe.

Hmmmm.... On cold start my Runner makes a whooshing sound about 15 seconds after start-up.... I jokingly call it the cold start fart but it's noticeable on every cold start.

Mine started like that. Then threw a code after some time. Might be worth a proactive fix before the pumps fail or the valves go bad.

You don't have a VVT-i engine so you don't have to worry about this.



Here's how you get to the starter IE: removing the manifold. Same process....

Attached Images

How to remove the intake manifold.pdf (990.7 KB, 303 views)

OP- Sorry to hijack your thread...

I've been reading up on bypass options and found the one on Tundra Solutions.
Air Induction Pump Bypass Module - AIP Valve Bypass

Has anyone tried this?

Has anyone tried another bypass method??

I think I might be having the beginning of the pump failure and really don't want to take on changing the pump,but instead trying the bypass method.

Any advice would be helpful!

WillK
I did the relay version of the AIP bypass(not the one Paul makes for a few hundred bucks). It's pretty easy to do and takes less than an hour for a first timer. Not sure where you live but the pump won't come on unless air temp is over 41F......so if your in a cold climate, and park outside your "safe" until spring

Hokie, not sure why you are having issues on COLD days, should be the opposite(issues on warmer mornings????).

The relay mod actually tricks the ECU into thinking its 18F during the second or so the starter is engaged, so the pump does NOT come on. Do you have a link to where Paul talks about issues at low temps?? I haven't seen that and I personally have had no issues since Feb 13 when I installed mine. I would like to learn or understand it. Is it something with his solid state module or the Toyota ECU itself???

RC: nice link. I found that one this morning too and have been reading up on it. Doesn't look too bad, just time consuming.

For those interested, here is a link to the GM part number for the pump. 1/10th of the cost.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...place-tundras/

Typically, I'm all for keeping my Toyota a Toyota, but for $1000, I'll pass. Besides, the whole point of all that is for reliability and it seems like toyota mailed it in on this one.

I've read up on the bypass/delete and I think it is a brilliant idea to scrap an troublesome and essentially useless part. However, the way I understand it, it is best used as a preventative measure, before the part(s) fail. Or it can be used for those who are "lucky" enough to have the valve(s) fail in the closed position.

My luck being what it is, the valve is stuck in the open position, hence the p2440. Not only does this put the truck into "limp" mode (the closed position one just throws codes), it can be hazardous (highly unlikely) because with it constantly blowing it can increase exhaust temps.

I'm all for modding and making improvements, but I like to start from a point where everything is actually working. Because of this, and the fact mine is stuck open, not closed, I will make that actual repair.

However, there's no way in hell I'm paying stealership prices. And there's no way I will buy that damn Toyota pump. I'll do the job myself and get the GM pump. I'm hoping that I can extract whatever is keeping the valve open and not have to buy the Toyota valves. They are $500 and $200.

Shit luck, being as it is, things always happen at the worst times. My newborn son is at the NICU in the hospital, so I'm facing a challenge fitting this job in. Stay tuned and I'll update you all as I get into it. Hoping to get started in the next couple of days.

Thank you all for the pdf's and helpful links. Keep 'em coming if anybody has anymore advice, I'm listening.....

Hey man, sorry to hear about your son. Hope everything turns out okay for him and your family.

Sly, I've been discussing the issue with Paul over email. I'm intimately familiar with exactly how the module and bypass work and this is just a unique/rare issue. I need to run the diagnostics to ensure the module is properly functioning but the AIP has not run (I haven't heard it) since installing the bypass. The 2445 code has only shown up twice (weeks and hundreds of miles apart) and didn't pop up until after I'd been driving 20 mins or so

Once it warms up a bit and I can hook up my multimeter I'll see where I'm at. I don't have more details on the cold affecting the bypass except that Paul has seen the issue mostly with sequoias and is actively working on an update. I've also seen threads where folks have done the bypass etc and they'll get a p2445 code later on at random intervals. I was unable to find a resolved situation on this more rare issue. I'll update as new information is available.

Sorry to hear this. You're definitely in my thoughts and I hope for the best. If I find anything else I'll send it your way.

Gah when it rains it pours right!! I hope he comes out with flying colors....my son is 2 and damn I love that lil terd

Hokie, thanks for the update. I haven't been actively involved really since I did mine last year(2005 4Runner) and no issues. Mine was a failing pump but not yet completely gone so the bypass has worked great(knock on wood).

Well, had a turn of luck yesterday. Warmer day, cleared the code on my 4runner, and the damn thing ran perfectly. No whooshing sound, no p2440, no limp mode. Can't explain it. Maybe the valves were frozen open, maybe if a bit of plastic or trash was holding it open it got blown out. I don't know. But I do know I don't trust it.

So, I'm taking advantage of this window of opportunity and using Slyfox75's relay. Also, because I had the stuck open DTC I'm going to take the extra step and install the block off plates as well, just for good measure. Got the parts on the way. Installing these should take no time. I'll add pics of those installs here.

Also, big thanks to those who expressed concern for my boy. It's been a roller coaster. He was born over 2 months early and we've been in the hospital for 40 days now. Things are looking good though. He's growing and getting stronger, and we hope to have him home in the next couple of weeks.

Ok...I'm all fixed up. Here are some pics detailing the process. This may encourage some folks to take on this themselves.

Special thanks to Slyfox75 for getting the relay to me quickly with very detailed instructions.

I decided to install the block off plates first. I hit the threads with a preemptive squirt of PB Blaster just in case.

I tried reaching the area from above and below, neither of which seemed possible unless you're Plastic Man. However, if you remove the little flap and go through the wheel well it's pretty easy.

The junction is seen here, in the center of the photo: