10-21-2020, 09:44 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Real Name: Tristan
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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Posts: 37
Real Name: Tristan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeryT
Yup! It is a good one. Many more people over on the RV.net forum are finding this out!
We have an ultralight 26' travel trailer that weighs around 5k loaded. We use the premium Hensley weight distributing hitch to compensate for the shorter wheelbase. This hitch virtually eliminates sway. I added the tranny stuff (see sig), and it is quite strong climbing several thousand foot grades in the blistering Arizona summer.
Main thing with it is, you'll find, is the lower tongue weight capacity common to most SUVs. With the weight distributing hitch, the rear sags minimally, but it still does drop some. I plan to add the easy rear air bag upgrade some on here are doing, to compensate the last 1.5 inches it needs.
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Im looking at tires to tow a similar trailer/camper with my 2005 V8, but am a little confused about the load rating needed for new tires to work with this setup. What tires are you running? Any advice you can provide is greatly appreciated.
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2005 SR5 4WD: V8 - Doug Thorley headers, Bilstein 5100s, Slee offroad steel brake lines, Tundra brake swap, JBA upper control arms, 33s on RockTrix wheels, etc.
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10-22-2020, 09:45 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
Posts: 408
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeryT
There has been tons of discussions over on RV.net regarding towing in OD. The general rule of thumb is not to do it if the transmission is hunting at all. If it hunts, that is of course bad.
Some trucks can do it. I've found the 4Runner will hunt even on level ground in OD.
The other test is if the tranny temp goes up. If it is hunting, the temp will go up.
Pulling a boat is a different critter than a travel trailer because of the vastly improved aerodynamics. I would think a car on a carrier would be better in this department too.
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I stopped in to say this. Also, to add that another reason to avoid OD while towing is to keep transmission RPMs up so that the pump cycles faster, keeping everything doused in lubricant.
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2005 V8 Limited
Bilstein 6112/5160, ADDCO bars. 18x9 Beast with 285/60R18 BFGs
IPT valve body, DT shorty headers, Dirty Deeds BAMF exhaust
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10-22-2020, 09:51 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
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Real Name: Danny
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Join Date: Feb 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkson!
Im looking at tires to tow a similar trailer/camper with my 2005 V8, but am a little confused about the load rating needed for new tires to work with this setup. What tires are you running? Any advice you can provide is greatly appreciated.
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Since this thread is about 14 years old I doubt if any of the original posters will reply so I'll chime in with my opinion. The important question is, will you be using a good weight distributing hitch? If so, a good portion of the weight of the camper will be spread to all 4 of your vehicle tires and back to the camper tires as well. So if your camper weighs 5000 lbs and you use the common theory of 25% of that as your tongue weight that means you have 1250 lbs tongue weight. Spread that evenly over all 4 tires on the 4runner and that comes out to about 312 lbs per tire. If the 4runner weighs 4500 lbs and you assume about a 55/45 weight distribution front/rear that means you have about 2475 lbs on the front or 1237 lbs on each front tire and 2025 pounds on the rear or 1012 on each rear tire before you hook up to the camper. If you add 312 lbs from the camper to the front you have 1549 lbs and add it to the rear you have 1314 lbs on the rear. Most standard load tires in 265/65/17 should be rated for about 22-2400 lbs so that gives you a little wiggle room if any of the calculations I did above are off a little. So a standard load tire in stock size should be sufficient. If you want a little piece of mind you could either go to a 265/70/17 in standard load that will likely give you another couple hundred lbs or find some class C tires that will give you even more. But be aware the C and E class tires will not ride as good as the standard load.
If you're NOT using a good weight distributing hitch (which I strongly recommend), all 1250 lbs of that tongue weight will be placed on your rear tires as well as the wheel bearings, suspension and rear end. (Not good)
I also strongly advice you to have some form of sway control. I used to pull my 29 ft travel trailer with my 07 Tundra and even with the larger, heavier truck with a much longer wheelbase I wouldn't have pulled it any moderate distance without the WD hitch and sway control. And the 5.7 Tundra with tow package is a towing beast. The wind from 18 wheelers will really make you clinch your butt cheeks and turn your knuckles white.
With all that being said, this is all my (somewhat educated) opinion. Do your own research and choose what you feel comfortable with.
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Ironman 3/2 lift kit, JBA high caster upper control arms, Upgraded to Sport Front Cardone Calipers with Brembo Rotors and Akebono Pads, Added Spoiler, Sony XAV-AX1000 with Apple Carplay, USB Jack, Backup Camera, General Grabber ATX / 275/70/17, Auto Dimming Mirror with Compass and Homelink, Map Light Mod, Tekonsha 90160 Trailer Brake Controller, Recoil SL1708 Sub, Sealight LED Headlamps, K&N drop in air filter, Smittybilt XRC 9500 Winch, Weathertech floor mats.
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10-22-2020, 06:36 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,646
Real Name: Skip
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
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Real Name: Skip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by importman
Since this thread is about 14 years old I doubt if any of the original posters will reply so I'll chime in with my opinion. The important question is, will you be using a good weight distributing hitch? If so, a good portion of the weight of the camper will be spread to all 4 of your vehicle tires and back to the camper tires as well. So if your camper weighs 5000 lbs and you use the common theory of 25% of that as your tongue weight that means you have 1250 lbs tongue weight. Spread that evenly over all 4 tires on the 4runner and that comes out to about 312 lbs per tire. If the 4runner weighs 4500 lbs and you assume about a 55/45 weight distribution front/rear that means you have about 2475 lbs on the front or 1237 lbs on each front tire and 2025 pounds on the rear or 1012 on each rear tire before you hook up to the camper. If you add 312 lbs from the camper to the front you have 1549 lbs and add it to the rear you have 1314 lbs on the rear. Most standard load tires in 265/65/17 should be rated for about 22-2400 lbs so that gives you a little wiggle room if any of the calculations I did above are off a little. So a standard load tire in stock size should be sufficient. If you want a little piece of mind you could either go to a 265/70/17 in standard load that will likely give you another couple hundred lbs or find some class C tires that will give you even more. But be aware the C and E class tires will not ride as good as the standard load.
If you're NOT using a good weight distributing hitch (which I strongly recommend), all 1250 lbs of that tongue weight will be placed on your rear tires as well as the wheel bearings, suspension and rear end. (Not good)
I also strongly advice you to have some form of sway control. I used to pull my 29 ft travel trailer with my 07 Tundra and even with the larger, heavier truck with a much longer wheelbase I wouldn't have pulled it any moderate distance without the WD hitch and sway control. And the 5.7 Tundra with tow package is a towing beast. The wind from 18 wheelers will really make you clinch your butt cheeks and turn your knuckles white.
With all that being said, this is all my (somewhat educated) opinion. Do your own research and choose what you feel comfortable with.
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I agree with the above 100%, but I would also make sure the trailer has electric brakes and then you should have a brake controller to make sure those brakes are braking when you want them too.
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10-22-2020, 08:42 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Real Name: Tristan
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Thanks all for the feedback. I believe the trailer hitch is factory. How can I tell if the hitch is a weight distributing hitch to confirm?
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2005 SR5 4WD: V8 - Doug Thorley headers, Bilstein 5100s, Slee offroad steel brake lines, Tundra brake swap, JBA upper control arms, 33s on RockTrix wheels, etc.
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10-22-2020, 09:15 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkson!
Thanks all for the feedback. I believe the trailer hitch is factory. How can I tell if the hitch is a weight distributing hitch to confirm?
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Importman is more versed in towing and will probably chime in with some better info, but hopefully this helps:
This is the v8 hitch. Toyota calls it "weight distributing" but its really just a frame mounted hitch. However, this is a key ingredient to a weight distributing hitch setup. Your 05 should have it, but just check its not a crossmember hitch like the v6s and early-early v8s
Next ingredient is the weight distributing hitch itself. The arms and chains reduce the up and down rotation at the hitch, while also directing force into the frame of the vehicle and up to the front wheels. The sway control is the thing labeled with the CURT in both these pictures, and acts like a shock for the rotational axis. This helps to make your setup drive more like a straight truck on the highway, where you're not turning a whole lot and don't need the trailer to rotate freely about the hitch. I'd suggest watching a video on how it works, it kinda clicks if you can see the trailer lowered down onto a vehicle with a WHD vs a conventional hitch.
Last edited by y=mx+b; 10-22-2020 at 09:18 PM.
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10-23-2020, 05:07 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
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Real Name: Danny
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This is the one I used. It uses a cam action to keep the truck and trailer centered in a straight line. In effect it has to unseat the cam to allow a turn. I really liked it. Just another option to look at.
Reese - Sway Control - Dual Cam
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Ironman 3/2 lift kit, JBA high caster upper control arms, Upgraded to Sport Front Cardone Calipers with Brembo Rotors and Akebono Pads, Added Spoiler, Sony XAV-AX1000 with Apple Carplay, USB Jack, Backup Camera, General Grabber ATX / 275/70/17, Auto Dimming Mirror with Compass and Homelink, Map Light Mod, Tekonsha 90160 Trailer Brake Controller, Recoil SL1708 Sub, Sealight LED Headlamps, K&N drop in air filter, Smittybilt XRC 9500 Winch, Weathertech floor mats.
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03-22-2022, 03:21 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: wilson, WY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by importman
This is the one I used. It uses a cam action to keep the truck and trailer centered in a straight line. In effect it has to unseat the cam to allow a turn. I really liked it. Just another option to look at.
Reese - Sway Control - Dual Cam
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I know this thread is now many years old, but had a few towing questions:
Buying an 06' V8 T4R to tow our 18ft travel trailer to and around Baja. (4000lbs GWT). Getting a weight equalizing hitch setup and brake controller but wondering about if upgrading to Tundra or larger rotors (Stoptech, etc), is highly recommended.
Thanks for any input.
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03-23-2022, 03:38 AM
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#24
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Nashvegas, TN
Posts: 366
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V8 4Runner makes a great tow vehicle
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhjeff
I know this thread is now many years old, but had a few towing questions:
Buying an 06' V8 T4R to tow our 18ft travel trailer to and around Baja. (4000lbs GWT). Getting a weight equalizing hitch setup and brake controller but wondering about if upgrading to Tundra or larger rotors (Stoptech, etc), is highly recommended.
Thanks for any input.
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The Sports and some Limiteds (it was optional on the Limited) already have bigger rotors and calipers than the SR5. Best thing is to check the backside of the front caliper for the writing. The 13WH is already the bigger one so it’s already as upgraded as it’s going to get. The 13WG is the smaller. I tow A LOT, so I’m happy to already have a ‘03 V8 Sport and I have PowerStop pads/rotors. I think it depends on how much you tow, but I’d say yes, upgrade if you don’t have the larger setup already. You can always do the 5th gen swap for the larger size if yours is the SR5, you just may have to mod the dust shield. This may help if you’re doing the modification.
5th Gen 4Runner Brakes Upgrade (for 4th Gen 4Runner)
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Last edited by theladyviola; 03-23-2022 at 03:41 AM.
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