Rear axle seal leak - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

eleven14 · 03-17-2020, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SHagood

Bringing this thread back for some help/guidance, so thank you in advance to anyone that comes across this thread and responds. My 4th gen just hit 178k miles, and the larger tires and wheeling abuse over the last two years leading to this should have been expected..

I crawled under my car yesterday to grease the drive shafts, and noticed this only on the passenger side. There isn't a distinct smell or anything, but the leaking grease is everywhere. Under the rear bumper, all inside the wheel and tire, all inside the wheel well, all over the shock and spring, you get the point, it's all over the place. I drained and replaced the diff and transfer case fluid about 10k miles ago, no issues during that maintenance. So yesterday before work, I jacked the car up and took the wheel off yesterday. Cleaned everything that I could, and used and entire can of brake cleaner to help pinpoint the leak. Through research and reading along here, I suspect it is the rear axle seal leak.

From what I've gathered, replacing the seal isn't very difficult, but the bearing can be a PITA. It looks like I need #42311V for the right side seal, where is the best place to buy this seal? I checked Toyota Parts Online but the closest store is 65 miles away. Checked Ebay too, and couldn't find the exact seal match. Should I call the closest Toyota dealership and have them order it? I see some say go ahead and replace the bearing, others say to just do the seal. I feel confident enough to handle the seal alone, but not so much the bearing.

Sorry for any ignorance or stupidity in this post, anyone who stumbles across and can help offer suggestion would be really appreciated.

That's what mine looked like, but to a lesser extent so your failure is a little further along. Probably best to replace the seal and bearing, along with at least the brake pads.

Also replace and relocate your differential breather if you haven't already.

SHagood · 03-17-2020, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nevada

for the short term, you could just replace the seal.

but...the seal failed, letting gear oil wash through the bearing, and out of the housing. it washes the grease out of the bearing. so, once you fix the seal, and gear oil is no longer getting into the bearing, it is essentially running dry.

basically once it gets to this point, the proper repair will be to replace the seal as well as the bearing. most likely along with the brakes, and park brake shoes. as once they have absorbed the gear oil, they are pretty much trash.

Roger that, thank you for the reply. I appreciate you offering suggestions for a fix.

SHagood · 03-17-2020, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eleven14

That's what mine looked like, but to a lesser extent so your failure is a little further along. Probably best to replace the seal and bearing, along with at least the brake pads.

Also replace and relocate your differential breather if you haven't already.

Forgive me for sounding like an idiot, but what are the pros/cons to replacing and relocating the diff breather? Is that an easy fix?

Did you just replace the seal, or did you do the bearing too? And did your brake pads get ruined?

eleven14 · 03-17-2020, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SHagood

Forgive me for sounding like an idiot, but what are the pros/cons to replacing and relocating the diff breather? Is that an easy fix?

Did you just replace the seal, or did you do the bearing too? And did your brake pads get ruined?

I did both seal and bearing and the other side went 14 months later (replaced both on that side as well) and both times required new brake pads.

I also replaced and relocated my diff breather and found that the original had failed. My theory is the malfunctioning breather helped blow the axle seals, as the pressure builds and has no escape. I also took the opportunity to relocate it higher on the vehicle for water crossings, it's an easy, cheap fix with no downside in my opinion.

No issues almost a year later.

SHagood · 03-17-2020, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eleven14

I did both seal and bearing and the other side went 14 months later (replaced both on that side as well) and both times required new brake pads.

I also replaced and relocated my diff breather and found that the original had failed. My theory is the malfunctioning breather helped blow the axle seals, as the pressure builds and has no escape. I also took the opportunity to relocate it higher on the vehicle for water crossings, it's an easy, cheap fix with no downside in my opinion.

No issues almost a year later.

Good deal. I'm looking at going ahead and replacing the rear brakes with the PowerStop z36 kit and I guess I'll do the bearing and seal too. Did you do the bearing work yourself, or take to a shop? I have read the bearing is a PITA, but the seal is relatively easy. Where did you buy the seal and bearing?

Do you have a write up or any documented steps for relocating the diff breather?

eleven14 · 03-17-2020, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SHagood

Good deal. I'm looking at going ahead and replacing the rear brakes with the PowerStop z36 kit and I guess I'll do the bearing and seal too. Did you do the bearing work yourself, or take to a shop? I have read the bearing is a PITA, but the seal is relatively easy. Where did you buy the seal and bearing?

Do you have a write up or any documented steps for relocating the diff breather?

Due to time commitments, I had a shop do the work but wouldn't hesitate to tackle it myself if needed in the future and time allows.

These are the write-ups I'd refer to for seals/bearings:
4th Gen Rear Wheel Bearing DIY
Don't wait replace your rear wheel bearings!

And on this last round, I went Akebono pads and Centric rotors all around and have been happy with them (also encountered a frozen caliper during the swap, so be prepared for that possibility), but I hear the PowerStop stuff is really good as well.

On the diff breather, start with these:
Rear diff breather install - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7eLX7s4pg

SHagood · 03-17-2020, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eleven14

Due to time commitments, I had a shop do the work but wouldn't hesitate to tackle it myself if needed in the future and time allows.

These are the write-ups I'd refer to for seals/bearings:
4th Gen Rear Wheel Bearing DIY
Don't wait replace your rear wheel bearings!

And on this last round, I went Akebono pads and Centric rotors all around and have been happy with them (also encountered a frozen caliper during the swap, so be prepared for that possibility), but I hear the PowerStop stuff is really good as well.

On the diff breather, start with these:
Rear diff breather install - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7eLX7s4pg

Absolutely perfect! Thank you sir, I appreciate the prompt response.

gaber6 · 03-21-2020, 12:41 PM

I had the same problem.. I replaced the seals/brakes first, then was sad to have to replace the brakes again because the bearings that were pressed onto the axle had slight ridges in them allowing the grease to leak out again. Took those to a shop to get new Timken bearings/bushings pressed on and all is sealed back up.

Drcoffee · 10-19-2020, 08:46 PM

I found a flaw in the rear axle seals in our 3rd gen and then again in my 07 FJC which shares the rear axle setup with our 4th gen 4runner. The bearing retainer doesnt doesnt extend far enough for the seal to seat in the center of the retainer. It will make more sense if you follow this link.

Rear Axle leak & bearing replacement | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

The easy solution is to cut the retainer off and install an new retainer with the beveled edge facing the wheel. You wont damage the seal I promise. I have done it on two trucks and have not had a failure. Once you flip the retainer, the seal rides in the center of the retainer. To install the new retainer, heat it with a oropane torch or in the oven broiler. It expands and you just drop it down to the bearing and C clip it in place.

neurotictim · 12-01-2021, 10:31 AM

Bumping this thread again because I'm really starting to sweat whether or not I'm prepared for this job. Failed inspection yesterday for "gear oil fouling brake pads" and immediately started researching. I've got the outer seals, two cans of Brakleen, and new pads. But after reading this thread I'm wondering if I'm gonna need inner seals, and maybe bearing? There's no play in the wheel, but can I repack the bearing?

I have reserved 4 hours at the local DIY Garage and they've got knowledgeable people there, plus I'm not too bad with a wrench, but I'm worried this might be beyond me. How likely is it that I need the inner seals/cut the retainer? Have I gotten in over my head?

Drcoffee · 12-01-2021, 12:36 PM

Whoa there cowboy. Before you take it apart, you should research how its done. There is no repacking a bearing option. They are sealed and not serviceable.

But here is what you can do to fix the leaking to pass inspection. Pull out the axle, replace the inner seal with a new OEM seal in the axle tube. Buy a new retainer and install it with the bevel facing the wheel. Grease it and reassemble. But know the bearing grease has been washed out and failure is coming.

How To FJ cruiser Wheel Bearing Replacment | Overland Adventures and Off-Road

FJCs use the same setup

boostedprozac · 12-01-2021, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drcoffee

Whoa there cowboy. Before you take it apart, you should research how its done. There is no repacking a bearing option. They are sealed and not serviceable.

But here is what you can do to fix the leaking to pass inspection. Pull out the axle, replace the inner seal with a new OEM seal in the axle tube. Buy a new retainer and install it with the bevel facing the wheel. Grease it and reassemble. But know the bearing grease has been washed out and failure is coming.

How To FJ cruiser Wheel Bearing Replacment | Overland Adventures and Off-Road

FJCs use the same setup

Exactly what DrCoffee said, replace the inner seal once you pull the axles off. Remember that you’ll have to undo the parking brakes and cut welded spots that hold the brake lines to the dust plates. Once you get everything back on, replace the outer o ring as you put the axles back in. That should clean everything up until you have to replace the bearings. Good luck! It is a pretty easy fix.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hunter61 · 12-01-2021, 07:41 PM

Before doing anything I'd check the rear differential breather vent. The top part of it is an upside cup that should move freely. It's purpose is to vent pressure out of the rear differential and if it's clogged from corrosion the pressure inside the differential housing will have no other place to escape except through the bearing seals.
When mine failed I had differential fluid leaking all over my rear brake and replacing the vent stopped that completely.
If yours is clogged you can free it up with PB blaster and a wire brush-occasionaly tapping it with a small hammer or something. That's a temporary fix until you get it replaced.

Drcoffee · 12-01-2021, 10:08 PM

Good point. Those little vents are crap. I changed mine to a remote vent, running a 3/8” hose barb, 3/8” transmission hose up behind the gas filler. But you can buy a new vent for $10

Site Navigation