Thank you for making that crystal clear for anyone who thinks otherwise.

I will continue to update thread with the outcome of my situation. Hopefully anyone else who ends up in this spot can benefit from reading this.

The only time these pumps fail is when they suck up water. You must have splashed a lot of water under the hood. The trucks sees more failure mainly from the 4.6 and 5.7 because the pumps are low and in front of the passenger tire.
I seen tons of tundras with pump failure. Never one from a runner but that could be because all the owners don't actually leave the mall.

Another thing you can do is print up the TSB for the tundra and speak to a dealership service manager and see if he can contact Toyota on your behalf to get it covered.

Very well stated^^^^

So much more goes into it such as the design, air flow, heat dissipation etc. They even explain how important the placement of the clamps are in regards to keeping water intrusion at bay.

Actually no.. ive yet to even be able to have it in a situation where it would have sucked up a lot of water. Im trying to get all this crap straightened out first so I can build on it and get to the point where I can do that and then blame myself instead of toyota lol.

The service advisor im working with already has the print out ready.. just getting a few things in line before I go back and he does exactly that. I already have a case number with toyota on this issue.

Coincidence, related or not, at the exact time the truck threw out a CEL for the air pump and valves. it had a code for camshaft position sensor. Ill be changing that out before I bring it back to the dealer so they can focus on the single issue with corp.

Ask to speak with the service manager not advisor.

Water could have gotten in from previous owner? Small amount will not set code right away but will rust the motor over time causing it to fail.

Just have to get enough water into the radiator area and the fan will do the rest...

Possible, but based on my research of the former owner lol.. it was owned by an 70 year old man and garaged.... Ive had it for 2 years.. Soo maybe?? but doubt he was a doing water crossings with a stock 4runner in his 70's lol....this of course is speculation

Doesn't have to be deep water crossing. Just big puddles of water can easily splash water over and under the hood.

Guess you never looked at what drivers are stuck in the middle of a flood street cuz they drove into it lol.

Either way. Try to get them to goodwill or pay now and hope for a TSB stating extended coverage. And you can get reimbursed for it.

Is there a detailed diagram/online thread showing how to get access to the pump? I am having trouble finding one online. I want to disconnect the pump temporally to get out of limp mode.

Sorry I havent updated..

my air pump is still Screaming every morning when I start up.. but since the 1 day it went into limp mode and threw 4 codes at once. It has never happened again since. So the dealer cant help me until it throws codes again.

I immediately shut off vehicle in the middle of the pump running and makeing noise. cleared codes with key on engine off and disconnected battery for 30 min.

I am not saying this way the right thing to do by any means.. however, i haven't had any issues or CELS since. Also just past NY State inspection. pump still makes noise every cold start.

The pump is located under the manifold. The issue is that yes, you can just unplug the pump but I'm fairly certain that you will then solve the pump problem but create another since it's all tied into the system so you'll just get different codes.

Also, what codes do you have? There are certain limp modes where you can reset the system and be fine (until the issue is triggered again) and then there are codes which you can't clear with a reset and you'll have to replace the defective part, clear the codes and do the bypass to avoid any future failures.
Glad to hear you haven't had any more codes but I'd install the bypass asap. I followed the same thought process you are and out of the blue it came back with vengeance. See my above comment in that if you tempt fate and one of irreversible codes gets thrown...you'll be replacing the part for sure!

Obviously I hope that doesn't happen to anyone but the bypass is cheap insurance (the relay version at least) that the issue won't devolve further.

I've been off the site for a few weeks, but yes I still sell the kits.
$45 shipped. I just replied to your PM Billynath.

The plates IMO are overkill but I understand people want peace of mind.

Once you get the first code you might as well get a kit from me or on ebay a few guys sell them.....IT WILL ONLY GET WORSE. Save your sanity!!! Just do it!

I have never driven mine into "deep water" or hit the huge puddles after a rain and send water 20ft in air. I think.....and have seen pics from Tundra site I think it was of these blades breaking......I think the plastic is degrading over time due to its proximity to heat and the blades get brittle and break. I think its age and heat that is getting our trucks. Newer trucks have them over the wheel well I think(removed from heat source) but I think they solved one problem and created another(water intrusion). JUST MY THOUGHTS....

I would agree that the plates can be overkill, but in my case they were necessary since I was getting codes about stuck closed valves etc. Adding the plates fixed the issue! But again, not necessary in most cases. And Def go with the sly fox kit.

^^^^^^^^^^^^


This guys kit works wonders. Super helpful guy as well. I highly recommend this fix.

Just to update everyone on this thread.. Went to dealer today after started throwing codes again. second time there and they weren't able to get anywhere with corporate regardless of anything.
Its unfortunate thats the way a company with a very strong customer support base, and a company who markets their vehicles for reliability treats people who buy their products and are subject to dealing with a very expensive, obvious design flaw. The dealer quoted me $1800 plus tax for parts and labor.. the best they can do.

I will be purchasing SlyFox's kit. I will update on the install and outcome of that as I do it.

I had a p1442 code for something stuck closed, I ordered the AIP bypass off of ebay. I recently installed in about a week ago and it's worked flawlessly since, no codes yet. I did have issues with the wrong color coded wires but a quick email fixed my problem. I didn't install the block off plates.