09-02-2014, 08:26 PM
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#46
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Here
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billynath1988
Just to update everyone on this thread.. Went to dealer today after started throwing codes again. second time there and they weren't able to get anywhere with corporate regardless of anything.
Its unfortunate thats the way a company with a very strong customer support base, and a company who markets their vehicles for reliability treats people who buy their products and are subject to dealing with a very expensive, obvious design flaw. The dealer quoted me $1800 plus tax for parts and labor.. the best they can do.
I will be purchasing SlyFox's kit. I will update on the install and outcome of that as I do it.
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Sorry to hear..
Pump isn't cheap but it's not to hard to replace
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09-02-2014, 09:22 PM
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#47
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Greenwood, SC
Posts: 12
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I just bought my runner 2 weeks ago and the second day I owned it I got the CELs mentioned in this thread. Both the bypass kit and have the module installed. It has worked so far I know, because the stupid roaring sound on start up is gone. I haven't had a chance to install the plates yet. The codes I got were the stuck closed so no limp mode but I am going to install them anyway.
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09-09-2014, 05:40 PM
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#48
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: longisland ny
Age: 36
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Thank you everyone up to this point.
Today I have installed SlyFox's ST relay kit. Extremely easy to install. I know I should have done this a long time ago but I needed to go through the motions. Slyfox, thank you for the quick turn around on the order.
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01-12-2015, 02:31 AM
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#49
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: CO
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Emisions?
I'm going through a similar nightmare- check engine lights , probable secondary air injection pump failure. (Now my heater won't work. Only blows cold air).
My only real option seems to be to install the bypass.
If I install the bypass will it still pass emissions? I live in Denver. Thanks
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01-13-2015, 12:27 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hawley, PA
Age: 72
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This may have been answered before, but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer yet. Can anyone tell me if this Air Pump problem is specific to certain years, or does it apply to all V8's. So far, it appears that only '05's and newer have been reporting this problem, but I may have missed reports of the problem in earlier years. I have an '03, and would like to know if I need to worry about this issue. Thanks for any assistance/info.
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I can Explain it to you, I can't Understand it for you.
'08 Tundra SR5 5.7 V8 Double Cab, White, Equalizer WD system, '91 Coachmen Catalina 260FK, '89 Grumman GSS w/35HP Force O/B, 8' Snowbear utility trailer, 2012 Polaris 500HO LE in Camo, 7 x 14 TWF Landscape trailer w/2 ramps.
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01-13-2015, 01:35 PM
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#51
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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It's only for 05+ with the VVT-I engines.
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2007 Sport Edition 4wd V8 - Titanium Metallic // 5100s with OME 885/895 2.5/1.5 lift // 275/70/17 General Grabber atx // Spidertrax // Magnaflow 18" // Both VSC-Trac off mods // HCF Delete // Plasti-dip emblems and grill // Window Tint
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01-13-2015, 03:39 PM
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#52
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tysauce
It's only for 05+ with the VVT-I engines.
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Good to know. Thanks
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I can Explain it to you, I can't Understand it for you.
'08 Tundra SR5 5.7 V8 Double Cab, White, Equalizer WD system, '91 Coachmen Catalina 260FK, '89 Grumman GSS w/35HP Force O/B, 8' Snowbear utility trailer, 2012 Polaris 500HO LE in Camo, 7 x 14 TWF Landscape trailer w/2 ramps.
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04-04-2015, 08:04 AM
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#53
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: NC
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I own a 2006 Lexus GX 470. Same drive train as so many others with the 4.7L V8. Last week I got the following codes, accompanied by limp mode and a shop vac sound:
P1444
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank2 Stuck Open
P1441
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank1 Stuck Open
The smog pump was replaced and everything was fine, then the next day the lights came back on. The shop vac noise and the limp mode was no longer present.
Was reading some stuff online and someone remarked that it could be something downstream. Does anyone have any idea what to do next? I'm not a mechanic so need to figure this out. And no, not going to do a bypass since too many people report problems down the road.
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04-04-2015, 10:43 AM
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#54
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: longisland ny
Age: 36
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deckard
I own a 2006 Lexus GX 470. Same drive train as so many others with the 4.7L V8. Last week I got the following codes, accompanied by limp mode and a shop vac sound:
P1444
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank2 Stuck Open
P1441
Secondary Air Injection (Air) System Switching Valve No. 2 Bank1 Stuck Open
The smog pump was replaced and everything was fine, then the next day the lights came back on. The shop vac noise and the limp mode was no longer present.
Was reading some stuff online and someone remarked that it could be something downstream. Does anyone have any idea what to do next? I'm not a mechanic so need to figure this out. And no, not going to do a bypass since too many people report problems down the road.
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If I remember correctly, From my personal experience of dealing with this and doing my own research heres your options. If the Valves are in fact stuck open (which I believe causes the limp mode), You will need to do the manifold block off plates AND the resistor kit. If it is stuck closed you can just do the resistor kit, from SLYFOX. I am unaware of any of the bypass causing any issues further down the road as for me since ive done almost a year ago, problem solved and no side effects whats so ever.
If you choose not to do these, from what I understand you will need to RR the entire system yourself or have the dealer do it which is expensive to say the least. also PLEASE call the number listed on the first post of this thread and report it.
Just to clarify the only purpose of the air injection system and those valves is to inject fresh 02 into the cats to heat them up faster and create a more efficient burn. ONLY upon cold start up or when the engine temp is below I believe 48 degrees. Without that the cats will relay on exhaust gas alone to heat up and it literally effects nothing other then emissions for about an extra 2 minutes.
Last edited by Billynath1988; 04-04-2015 at 10:52 AM.
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04-04-2015, 04:18 PM
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#55
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Natchitoches, LA
Posts: 207
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Sorry to hear about your 470. REAL sorry to know you spent that money on the pump and labor.
Billy is mostly right
The AIP pump actually only comes on when air temp is ABOVE 41(the relay system actually tricks the ECU for the time your starter is engaged to think it is COLD outside). Once the starter is disengaged the AIP Bypass lets the actual, true air temp get to ECU. You will most likely only ever experience your AIP problem first thing in the morning when engine is "cold" or possibly after work or when engine has been sitting for many hours. The AIP system also looks at coolant temp too. If it(coolant) is warm it will not engage the AIP regardless of air temp. If you parked outside all winter in NY(edit....sorry Deck is in NC, BILLY is in NY).....it was below 41 most mornings so your AIP system didn't probably engage for MONTHS. Now that it is warming up.....its over 41f when you go to startup and it is telling AIP to come on now......thus the issue.
I have yet to hear of ANY issues with my version or other versions of the bypass, so not sure where you got that from.
I have had mine ~3 years, never touched it. No problems. Never installed plates.
I have read on Tundra forums where the blades on the fan itself broke off in pieces and can/did get pushed toward the AIP valves and can wedge themselves in the ports and make the valve not close. Never seen it, just read about it. Why you're not in limp mode now puzzles me tho.
To those yet to experience this.......trust me......just do the bypass......SO MUCH easier, less headache, etc etc. I sell the relay version for $45, Ebay has a couple versions, or make your own, the plans are on TundraSolutions and other forums. IMO its worth doing before you ever even GET to having a problem. Simple, 100% effective, cheap.
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04-04-2015, 05:51 PM
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#56
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slyfox75
Sorry to hear about your 470. REAL sorry to know you spent that money on the pump and labor.
Billy is mostly right
The AIP pump actually only comes on when air temp is ABOVE 41(the relay system actually tricks the ECU for the time your starter is engaged to think it is COLD outside). Once the starter is disengaged the AIP Bypass lets the actual, true air temp get to ECU. You will most likely only ever experience your AIP problem first thing in the morning when engine is "cold" or possibly after work or when engine has been sitting for many hours. The AIP system also looks at coolant temp too. If it(coolant) is warm it will not engage the AIP regardless of air temp. If you parked outside all winter in NY(edit....sorry Deck is in NC, BILLY is in NY).....it was below 41 most mornings so your AIP system didn't probably engage for MONTHS. Now that it is warming up.....its over 41f when you go to startup and it is telling AIP to come on now......thus the issue.
I have yet to hear of ANY issues with my version or other versions of the bypass, so not sure where you got that from.
I have had mine ~3 years, never touched it. No problems. Never installed plates.
I have read on Tundra forums where the blades on the fan itself broke off in pieces and can/did get pushed toward the AIP valves and can wedge themselves in the ports and make the valve not close. Never seen it, just read about it. Why you're not in limp mode now puzzles me tho.
To those yet to experience this.......trust me......just do the bypass......SO MUCH easier, less headache, etc etc. I sell the relay version for $45, Ebay has a couple versions, or make your own, the plans are on TundraSolutions and other forums. IMO its worth doing before you ever even GET to having a problem. Simple, 100% effective, cheap.
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Thanks for your swift reply. Started to limp mode today.
You can read about the problems of bypass modules in this thread:
Air Induction Pump Bypass Module - AIP Valve Bypass
Not sure those problems can be any worse that what I'm experiencing right now. I'm in hell. The bypass module can't be any greater risk based on this experience. Just need to make sure I can get past the NC smog check.
Tell me more about this relay version (It's all I need? Or is Billy right and I need block off plates too?) and how to get it fast.
Thanks
Last edited by Deckard; 04-04-2015 at 05:53 PM.
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04-04-2015, 06:56 PM
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#57
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Natchitoches, LA
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You can try and pull battery lead and let all your codes clear.
Then see if it goes back to limp mode.
Look on ebay for "Toyota AIP Bypass"
there is a ~$180 version that just clips in and includes the plates
there is a ~$155 version that needs to be soldered(multiple cables) and also includes plates
and then my relay system(I did not devise, a couple tundrasolutions guys did) I just do this version for convenience for people because its hard to get all the components from one place and I put them together so all you have to do is about a 10 minute total install. I do NOT sell plates though. That's why I recommend to do this mode BEFORE you have issues or at least early into it before they get stuck open. You can email me at [email protected] or PM me on here if you or anyone else wants a kit, I usually keep a few made up.
I can ship one out Monday if needed.
If you DO have stuck open valves......you need the plates, my kit is not enough.
Yes, from my knowledge you should have no problem passing emissions. Should be same situation as you driving up and getting it done with a already hot motor.....they should never know the difference. Maybe someone who has a bypass that lives in a emissions check state/city can chime in.
Last edited by slyfox75; 04-05-2015 at 11:02 AM.
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04-05-2015, 09:45 AM
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#58
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oregon
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There is no issues caused by blocking off the system. People have been doing it on Subarus since Subaru started putting them on in 2007. Same failure issues and same expensive repaires. Not sure if the block off plates for Subaru will work or not on Toyota.
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04-05-2015, 12:33 PM
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#59
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slyfox75
You can try and pull battery lead and let all your codes clear.
Then see if it goes back to limp mode.
Look on ebay for "Toyota AIP Bypass"
there is a ~$180 version that just clips in and includes the plates
there is a ~$155 version that needs to be soldered(multiple cables) and also includes plates
and then my relay system(I did not devise, a couple tundrasolutions guys did) I just do this version for convenience for people because its hard to get all the components from one place and I put them together so all you have to do is about a 10 minute total install. I do NOT sell plates though. That's why I recommend to do this mode BEFORE you have issues or at least early into it before they get stuck open. You can email me at [email protected] or PM me on here if you or anyone else wants a kit, I usually keep a few made up.
I can ship one out Monday if needed.
If you DO have stuck open valves......you need the plates, my kit is not enough.
Yes, from my knowledge you should have no problem passing emissions. Should be same situation as you driving up and getting it done with a already hot motor.....they should never know the difference. Maybe someone who has a bypass that lives in a emissions check state/city can chime in.
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@Sly
Okay, I got the car warm, then disconnected the pos lead on the battery, started it but the Christmas lights were all still there. I was about ready to give up, then remembered how my computer holds a charge for a bit after disconnecting power. So I disconnected the pos terminal again and waited a few minutes before putting it back on, and the lights went off.
If I understand this correctly, the valves are now closed, so I can go with your kit, Sly? I'll copy this to your email and request purchase instructions.
BillyN:
"...from what I understand you will need to RR the entire system yourself..."
What does RR mean? Could you elaborate on this? Is this the "downstream" issue(s) that the quoted poster was referring to? Would like to get smart on this.
Last edited by Deckard; 04-05-2015 at 12:44 PM.
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04-05-2015, 01:49 PM
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#60
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RR = Repair and/or Replace
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