Quote:
Originally Posted by Deckard
@Sly
Okay, I got the car warm, then disconnected the pos lead on the battery, started it but the Christmas lights were all still there. I was about ready to give up, then remembered how my computer holds a charge for a bit after disconnecting power. So I disconnected the pos terminal again and waited a few minutes before putting it back on, and the lights went off.
If I understand this correctly, the valves are now closed, so I can go with your kit, Sly? I'll copy this to your email and request purchase instructions.
BillyN:
"...from what I understand you will need to RR the entire system yourself..."
What does RR mean? Could you elaborate on this? Is this the "downstream" issue(s) that the quoted poster was referring to? Would like to get smart on this.
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What slyfox said. Just cause your dash lights and codes are temporarily out after resetting the computer via disconnecting battery, doesn't mean your valves aren't stuck. It is a good sign though. If your not in limp mode. and your dash lights are not on. I would Immediately, order the resistor bypass kit from slyfox. DO NOT drive your truck until you install it. And maybe you will be lucky enough to have caught the valves closed, and problem should be solved/ remedied.
If that doesn't work you will need to go one step further and install the block off plates. Which is basically permanently closing the valves. As stated early in some instances the air pump disintegrates and shrapnel from the plastic blade gets stuck in the valves preventing them from opening and closing properly.
Check out the links to the videos I posted in the first post of this thread and some connecting youtube videos about this. Should further explain it.
The Bypass resistor kit from slyfox literally took me less then 5 minutes to install.