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Old 07-28-2014, 06:59 PM #1
geenowalker geenowalker is offline
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Upper and Lower Control Arms (and what else)

Have a 05 v6 with 212K on her. Love her. Problem is that she will not pass inspection with the current shocks, struts, bushings and axles, and I am not a mechanic. What should I pay for replacement of the Upper and Lower control arms, and is there a brand that I can pick up that is good (NOT OFF ROADING) enough. Its the wife's car and is on the highway 90% of the time. Anything else while I there to replace? Do you guys think she is worth the investment? I love the ride.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:13 AM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geenowalker View Post
Have a 05 v6 with 212K on her. Love her. Problem is that she will not pass inspection with the current shocks, struts, bushings and axles, and I am not a mechanic. What should I pay for replacement of the Upper and Lower control arms, and is there a brand that I can pick up that is good (NOT OFF ROADING) enough. Its the wife's car and is on the highway 90% of the time. Anything else while I there to replace? Do you guys think she is worth the investment? I love the ride.
Why do you have to replace the upper and lower control arms, unless there actual damage has occurred to them? I am assuming that it is NOT the UCA's and LCA's that need replacing, but rather, the UCA and LCA bushings as well as upper and lower ball joints, correct? I am also assuming that if your Runner is not passing inspection for these items, that you are also having trouble getting the vehicle properly aligned. Please clarify, so that we can properly advise you.

Yes, if it were my Runner, I would replace UCA/LCA bushings ($160.00), ball joints ($80.00), sway bar bushings ($18.00), sway bar links ($36.00), shocks ($200.00), and even steering tie rods ($60.00), in an effort to keep my Runner in top form. However, I do all of my own installation because 1)I know that it is done CORRECTLY and 2)it's much less expensive. That being said, once you have replaced these items, you will be amazed at how much better your Runner handles. Honestly, I have no idea how much a mechanic will charge to install all of the parts that I just listed for you. The really difficult parts to install are the ball joints, shocks and, possibly the UCA/LCA bushings. The remainder are quite easy. Hope that helps.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:40 AM #3
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sorry for the confusion. Took the car into shop last Feb (recall issue) and had them do a overall check (quick check - free) to give me an idea of what the t4r needs for inspection (this October). They said that I need to replace shocks/struts, UCA and LCA bushings and CV Joints (boots ripped), but that they don't do that, and they just reinstall the new part because of the labor involved in replacing bushings (same with CVs..replace whole axle). I have no issue with alignment, but when I go over a bump, I hear the "disconnect" or lack of tightness. The car rides fine (maybe I just dont notice). I also asked a guy while getting gas (he had a local repair shop shirt on) about replacing and he indicated that they dont replace bushings either, they replace the whole arm.


btw....LOVE THE MULCAHEY PIC

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Old 07-29-2014, 11:38 AM #4
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Sounds like they're just hunting for business. I don't know about you guys, but I never heard of anyone up here failing an inspection because of worn struts. I had to get a safety when I moved to another province and it was a week or so before doing a complete suspension swap because everything was shot. No problems passing even with that. As for bushings, you can do this yourself and it will probably take 5-6 hrs. If you're set on swapping with new arms, I'd consider going with something aftermarket for the uppers.

Your priority should be replacing the cv with the torn boot.

We have a 30 day grace period here where if you fail inspection, you have 30 days to fix the problem and they'll look over it and pass you without charging for another inspection. If that's how it works over there, I'd say take it in as is and fix exactly what they say you need to do to pass. Consider it taking to a garage attached to a big store I.e. A Walmart, costco, or something along those lines. The mechanics there aren't hunting for business and won't hold you up over small things.
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Old 07-29-2014, 11:30 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geenowalker View Post
sorry for the confusion. Took the car into shop last Feb (recall issue) and had them do a overall check (quick check - free) to give me an idea of what the t4r needs for inspection (this October). They said that I need to replace shocks/struts, UCA and LCA bushings and CV Joints (boots ripped), but that they don't do that, and they just reinstall the new part because of the labor involved in replacing bushings (same with CVs..replace whole axle). I have no issue with alignment, but when I go over a bump, I hear the "disconnect" or lack of tightness. The car rides fine (maybe I just dont notice). I also asked a guy while getting gas (he had a local repair shop shirt on) about replacing and he indicated that they dont replace bushings either, they replace the whole arm.


btw....LOVE THE MULCAHEY PIC
Well, I won't comment on what will or will not pass inspection in Pennsylvania, as I am in Texas and have never been to Pennsylvania. What I will say, is that if those all of those items that they listed are "bad", then you will DEFINITELY have issues having it properly aligned. That being said, I like Rocket's suggestion of going ahead and trying to get it inspected as it is. Here in Texas, we have a 40 grace, to get repairs done post inspection fail, then back to inspector, and not be charged a second time for said inspection. I think this is common in most states. Once that is completed, put your Runner up on a jack and inspect the suspension yourself to verify what is really going on down there..... Or, photograph everything and post them here and we will take a look at it for you.

The test to check your struts (coil over shock) is to put your hands on one of your front fenders, hop in the air and come back down pushing the vehicle down as hard as you can. If it simply comes right back up, your coil overs are in good shape. If it comes up, goes down then back up, they are shot and need replacing. Keep us posted on your progress and good luck!
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:24 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preacher35 View Post
Well, I won't comment on what will or will not pass inspection in Pennsylvania, as I am in Texas and have never been to Pennsylvania.
i will comment since i live in PA and in Philly.

PM me if you want a place that will do it and get you your stickers. im out in west philly where will smith grew up HAHAHAHA

some mechanics are Unbelievable...unless the OP isnt telling us something and its in really bad shape
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:44 PM #7
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Look into Moog replacement control arms. They will meet or exceed the factory specs, and you won't have to mess with pressing in ball joints or bushings. Good luck.
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