08-19-2014, 06:49 PM
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#1
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Crazy Malfunctions After Battery Change
Sunday, Triple A installed a new battery in my '03 Toyota 4Runner. After that, things went nuts. The clock stopped, the mileage per gallon dropped from its normal 19.2 to 17.9, then 17.3, then 17.2, and as of this a.m., it was 17.1. I was able to reset the clock, but that's the only thing I could do.
The radio was on FM when I use AM. I changed it to AM and now the pointer hardly stops, it keeps flashing across the screen only stopping at 1 or 2 stations; I can't get the one I've always had (1070), the windows don't function unless I click on that lock-button that controls the side-view mirrors.
There's nothing in the manual about where the Jam Protection System is, though the manual says this Jam Protection thing controls at least some of the crazy things.
I'm taking the car to a mechanic ASAP to see if maybe a fuse is the problem?
I'm sure it's connected to the battery installation but that's all I'm sure of.
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08-19-2014, 06:52 PM
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#2
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Ck battery ground
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08-19-2014, 08:48 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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First I would check your connections on the battery to make sure their nice and tight, the radio freaking out sounds more like a bad ground than anything (this is a factory radio head unit right?)
The fuel mileage indicator will fluctuate for a while as you've erased the learned values on the "optimism meter" (as many of us refer to it as it is typically inaccurate), so I wouldn't worry to much about that, it will level out to what ever it thinks the average fuel economy the more you drive it.
You also need to reinitialize the automatic function of the driver's window and rear window after you disconnect the battery. To do this simply roll the window up and down 3 times in a row without stopping (going all the way down and up), this relearns the jam protection feature and lets the "Auto" function on both the Driver's Front Window and Rear Hatch Window to function correctly.
You may also have the VSC & ABS warning lights come on, this is because on the '03 & '04 models the Zero Point Calibration (ZPC) data becomes erased when the voltage drops too low (usually below 12.0volts or when you disconnect the battery); you will need to perform a ZPC relearn to correct the issue (there's some write-ups on the forum for it.)
Did you by any chance relearn the idle after you disconnected the battery? Usually Toyota vehicles run a bit rougher and shift a little worse after having the battery disconnected for a bit; the reason is that the learned memory in the ECM is erased and the vehicle needs to relearn your driving habits. After you disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes you want to let the vehicle idle with no loads (no radio, no A/C, no lights, ect.) for a good 5-10 minutes to let it get its bearings; after which driving it like you normally do for a while will let it relearn your driving habits.
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08-21-2014, 11:47 AM
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#4
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I found a Mode button on the dash this morning which explains a lot. If pushed, it goes to miles per gallon which can be reset to zero and then the car will eventually come up with the right number; if I push Mode again, it comes up with the number I couldn't understand before -- it's how many miles you can drive with the amount of gas in the tank. I wish I had known that, just replacing the battery would create so many problems. Thank you so much for your input, it was very helpful to me and to the mechanic.
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08-22-2014, 02:05 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2DogWoman
I found a Mode button on the dash this morning which explains a lot. If pushed, it goes to miles per gallon which can be reset to zero and then the car will eventually come up with the right number; if I push Mode again, it comes up with the number I couldn't understand before -- it's how many miles you can drive with the amount of gas in the tank. I wish I had known that, just replacing the battery would create so many problems. Thank you so much for your input, it was very helpful to me and to the mechanic.
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They're not really problems, its just sort of the price of having a modern vehicle. A lot of modern vehicles have odd little quirks/routines that have to be done after changing the battery due to all the computerization we shove into them such as relearning auto windows, idle, ect. You should see some of the newer European vehicles and Luxury Brands, they have a laundry list of stuff that has to be relearned, reset, and/or reprogrammed after a battery is changed (some even require you to buy a specific brand of battery because they have a serial number that has to be programmed into the vehicle's computer so it doesn't set codes! which is just stupid in my opinion.)
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08-22-2014, 04:20 AM
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#6
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Really ? What In the world? Wow that would be a pain in the ass
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08-22-2014, 02:58 PM
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#7
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Or you could use one of those little back-up battery packs that plugs into your cig lighter while the battery is disconnected to prevent all that.
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01-11-2017, 11:46 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc
You also need to reinitialize the automatic function of the driver's window and rear window after you disconnect the battery. To do this simply roll the window up and down 3 times in a row without stopping (going all the way down and up), this relearns the jam protection feature and lets the "Auto" function on both the Driver's Front Window and Rear Hatch Window to function correctly.
You may also have the VSC & ABS warning lights come on, this is because on the '03 & '04 models the Zero Point Calibration (ZPC) data becomes erased when the voltage drops too low (usually below 12.0volts or when you disconnect the battery); you will need to perform a ZPC relearn to correct the issue (there's some write-ups on the forum for it.)
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resurrecting an older thread here, but it's germane to a recent scenario i encountered...
replaced my battery recently and although the VSC &/or ABS light on the dash was never triggered (and no DTC C120A trouble code was registered; checked via TechStream) i was experiencing VSC kicking in at scary, inappropriate times (e.g., rounding corners). it also did this years ago after first taking delivery of the vehicle with Duratracs installed and i had to do a Zero Point Calibration to get the VSC system to calm the F down. i also had to do another ZPC after replacing the suspension and lifting it.
so, just saying that after replacing the battery i had to do yet another ZPC to get VSC to behave once again. i don't know if that behavior you described is limited to the 03/04 models, or if anyone else has experienced this for themselves, but that's what i found with my 2010 Trail.
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Last edited by sandcrawler; 01-11-2017 at 11:48 AM.
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01-11-2017, 03:23 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc
They're not really problems, its just sort of the price of having a modern vehicle. A lot of modern vehicles have odd little quirks/routines that have to be done after changing the battery due to all the computerization we shove into them such as relearning auto windows, idle, ect. You should see some of the newer European vehicles and Luxury Brands, they have a laundry list of stuff that has to be relearned, reset, and/or reprogrammed after a battery is changed (some even require you to buy a specific brand of battery because they have a serial number that has to be programmed into the vehicle's computer so it doesn't set codes! which is just stupid in my opinion.)
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This whole thing really gripes me. You know, for about $2.00 per car, they could put in an EEPROM and a "save state" push button under the hood. Push the button before you disconnect the battery, do your swap, and when the ECU comes up next and realizes it's doing a cold boot, it just goes to the EEPROM and restores everything (including the radio presets). Hold down the push button on startup if you indeed want to reset everything to clear out a problem.
I put a 12V bench supply on mine while I changed the battery. Saved a lot of headaches.
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01-21-2017, 08:54 PM
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#10
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I had to change the driver's side parking light bulb and needed to remove the battery to get better access. After reinstalling the battery, the idle in P or N was only 450 rpm. It came back up to normal after about 30 mins., but it sure was nerve-wracking up to that point. No engine light, nothing. One thing I learnt is that a 1GR-FE will idle at 400 rpm in D or R with no oil pressure problems and apparently no impact on the electrical accessories.
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09-05-2018, 10:42 PM
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#11
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Sorry for commenting on an old post but I would like to know how to reset this zpc you speak of. I disconnected my battery and now fuel gauge says full. I tried the trip cycling procedure and the second beep is continuous and not resetting. Thanks in advance by the way I have a 2004 runner
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09-06-2018, 01:35 AM
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#12
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More battery questions...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennerboy
Sorry for commenting on an old post but I would like to know how to reset this zpc you speak of. I disconnected my battery and now fuel gauge says full. I tried the trip cycling procedure and the second beep is continuous and not resetting. Thanks in advance by the way I have a 2004 runner
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I'm interested in this too. My new to me 07 needs a battery. How do I know? Cuz this forum taught me that if I start my car and the rear wiper makes one swipe that obviously means my battery is low - bizarre, but true.
My question is, is it easy enough to change my battery myself or should I take it to the dealer or O'Reilly's or somewhere like that? Costco sells Interstate batteries fairly cheap, but they don't install them. The owners manual doesn't give any instruction on changing the battery by yourself either.
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09-06-2018, 02:17 AM
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#13
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That is a really helpful tip to remember!
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09-06-2018, 02:17 AM
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#14
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This is a really helpful tip to remember!
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09-09-2018, 09:58 AM
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#15
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2004 suddenly won't start...
Hi all! This is my first post on this site (although I've been a reader for years). Apologize if this isn't the best place to insert my issue, but yesterday my 2004 4runner (230+ K miles) suddenly wouldn't start. I've had battery issues before, but I had driven the car for about 3 hours already that day (1.5 hours to and from a location, no issues on the road) and was taking a 15 minute break before heading back out when the issue started. When I put the key to ACC, a few of the normal lights came on very dimly and there was a vibrating noise coming from the fuse box in the engine compartment. The starter wouldn't even try to engage when I turned the key over.
Not sure if this is because of a dead battery, but it wouldn't jump when I tried. Battery connections seem fine, no corrosion (like I said, the car has worked fine for a long time up to this point, the issue happened very suddenly).
Thanks!
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