09-01-2014, 10:06 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolrax
Seems like you could do a nice undercoat after the fact. I just bought a 4th gen and I will probably go that route.
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I've never been fond of undercoating. It's messy, and IMO isn't worth the hassle. I've just started priming with Rustoleum rust inhibiting primer and then will follow up with Rustoleum paint. After all is converted and painted, I will hit it with Fluid Film to protect it over the winter.
Eventually when I have the cash to buy a new vehicle (whenever they redesign the Tacoma and put a diesel in it) I will be using Fluid Film every year and avoid undercoating.
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2016 Tacoma TRD Off Road 6MT Inferno
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09-02-2014, 01:15 AM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbull9944
I've never been fond of undercoating. It's messy, and IMO isn't worth the hassle. I've just started priming with Rustoleum rust inhibiting primer and then will follow up with Rustoleum paint. After all is converted and painted, I will hit it with Fluid Film to protect it over the winter.
Eventually when I have the cash to buy a new vehicle (whenever they redesign the Tacoma and put a diesel in it) I will be using Fluid Film every year and avoid undercoating.
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Really? I'm a huge fan, I also like the way a good job decreases road noise in the cabin. Every new body on frame Toyota should have it.
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09-02-2014, 07:05 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolrax
Really? I'm a huge fan, I also like the way a good job decreases road noise in the cabin. Every new body on frame Toyota should have it.
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Really. In my experience, undercoating has a life span of a couple years where I live. After that, it begins to flake off and bubble, and water can seep through and get trapped, rusting from the inside out. Before I picked mine up, some of it was undercoated. I am still working on taking all of that undercoat off. It's a huge PITA. Mine already had surface rust, so I'm just taking off the flakes, converting the rust still there to be stable, and painting over it with a good metal primer and paint. After that I will use fluid film, which I actually prefer because it wears off after the winter, and you can re-coat.
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2016 Tacoma TRD Off Road 6MT Inferno
2002 Sport~100k - Lifted - For Sale
2006 V8 Sport~110k - Lifted - Sold
2004 SR5 V8~138k - Lifted - Sold
2001 Sport 4WD~133K - Sold
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09-03-2014, 08:13 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbull9944
Sounds like a good plan. I have tried Rustoleum on my parent's 2001 Tahoe and found that it doesn't quite stand up like the Permatex I'm using does. In any case, even doing a short term solution over and over again is better than nothing
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Not to be a butt, but you just bought the product a few days ago so how do you know it stands up well? I have used several rust converters before including a permetex brand and none of them lasted. If I had a hoist I would use the rust converter that you use before applying POR-15 and then use FF each year after that.
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09-03-2014, 01:22 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatafly
Not to be a butt, but you just bought the product a few days ago so how do you know it stands up well? I have used several rust converters before including a permetex brand and none of them lasted. If I had a hoist I would use the rust converter that you use before applying POR-15 and then use FF each year after that.
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Because not only have I done research on long term results with Permatex but we also used it on my friend's '00 4Runner and slapped some frame paint over top. This is not my first time using it. So far it is holding up better than everything I've tried before it on other vehicles.
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2016 Tacoma TRD Off Road 6MT Inferno
2002 Sport~100k - Lifted - For Sale
2006 V8 Sport~110k - Lifted - Sold
2004 SR5 V8~138k - Lifted - Sold
2001 Sport 4WD~133K - Sold
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10-10-2015, 10:47 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Kansas
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Real Name: Bob Clifton
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What is normal amount of rust?
I purchased my first 4Runner a couple weeks ago. 2001 Limited Toyota 4Runner. How do I know what a normal amount of rust is and how much I should be worried about?
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10-10-2015, 11:52 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Real Name: Rob B.
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Bobby,
A few things...
First, welcome to the board. Pictures always help when you want people to make judgments and opinions of your truck. So if you want us to look at the amount of rust on the truck you just bought, then post up some undercarriage pictures.
Second, you have a 3rd generation 4Runner. There is a section specifically for 3rd gen questions and tech talk. While we could certainly answer your rust questions, you will see that you will get much different answers from each of the groups of owners in the different forums.
Third, you posted on a semi-related thread that was over a year old. You may want to make an introduction thread of your own in the 3rd gen section with pictures and specs of your new 4Runner.
R
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10-11-2015, 10:08 PM
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#23
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I need to take care of some rust before winter, mainly the front frame.
I was thinking por15. Would rust converter be better?
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10-11-2015, 10:29 PM
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#24
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Rust converter is a temporary solution, typically converting the iron oxide to iron phosphate. This will be an effective stop gap, until moisture penetrates the layer and begins the process again. If you convert, hit it with por15 afterwards, with a very thin first coat as por15 will allow bubbles out. The second coat can go a bit thicker, and cover the holes that the bubbles in the first coat leave behind. This is the best barrier (though of course there are other products that have similar claims) that I have personally used.
Por15 adheres to both iron oxide and iron phosphate very well, as well as sand blasted metal after a light sand with 180 grit.
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10-11-2015, 10:36 PM
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#25
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This is great info. Will have to get on this. Thanks
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10-12-2015, 09:37 AM
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#26
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Just tried the POR15 on my 2006 runner , which honestly the rust was not that bad on for northern Indiana. The front end was the worst with the skid plates showing the most rust. I debated about just tossing the skid plates and buying something new, but figured if try the POR15 first and see. I imagine the skid plate will see the most abuse this winter.
I wheeled off the rust on the frame and skid plate and used a degreaser and metal prep before I applied the POR15. It went on fairly well and we will see how it holds up this winter. I also top coated the skid plate with POR15 frame paint as they advised some form of top coat due to UV breakdown. Better safe than sorry I guess.
What I noticed on my frame was the worst areas were the weld marks and the paint flaked off very easily. The hitch was also very rusty, but under the spare tires was not bad at all.
I may try some of the fluid film on the internal sections before the snow starts flying.
Looking at some of the pics here I guess I was fortunate to be able to inspect the frame before buying.
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10-12-2015, 09:47 AM
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#27
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What about areas like steering components, can it be applied there also?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinfaxi
Problem is it doesn't stick to rust-free metal, it will flake off. It's designed to chemically bond to rust, which is why it's awesome for already rusted areas, but not for already clean frames. I painted some preventatively on my BMW and it came off after about 2 years.
I primarily use Fluid Film because you can see through it and know exactly what's going on with the metal. Painting over it is an out of sight out of mind approach. Just because you can't see the rust anymore doesn't mean it's not still spreading. And if it does start spreading, you now need to grind off tough as nails paint to fix it again. POR 15 will stop rust in its tracks, but good luck being confident the inside of your frame rails aren't heinous. With FF, it's dirt cheap to coat everything, everywhere, inside and out, multiple times a year. Takes about an hour with a spray gun. One gallon will get you 4 complete applications. If rust starts anywhere, spot treat it with POR, but I wouldn't paint the whole thing in POR and forget about it. It will be a nightmare to correct anything down the road.
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10-12-2015, 09:55 AM
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#28
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Do like I did and just move from the northeast, that is the best rust protection you can get.
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10-12-2015, 10:17 AM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOSMECH
Do like I did and just move from the northeast, that is the best rust protection you can get.
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As soon as the kids go off to college we will be looking to relocate south also!
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10-12-2015, 10:28 AM
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#30
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I like rust mort for my commercial/industrial applications. Under a toy, you have to be careful as it is caustic. I would use it first, paint, and then Fluid film. Fluid film is new to me, but my research has shown its used in industry, and has been for years. I was talking about it this weekend, and a friend told me, that NASA uses it, so I figure it must be pretty well thought of, by the rocket scientists.
For some of the rust I see on eastern toys, I would consider grinding out the old rust, rust mort around the area, and welding on plates.
It not cheap, but it works great. http://www.amazon.com/SEM-69501-Rust...ords=rust+mort
Of course the best plan would be move west, buy a new rust free toy, and Fluid film it... 
PS: your project is looking good...most people do not pay any attention to the rust underneath until they have a frame failure.
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Last edited by willbgood; 10-12-2015 at 10:31 AM.
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