Worry about it now, and you won't later.

Show a pic, so we can see the rust and let you know if it is critical, or just in need of early control.

so do you recommend using this, then applying POR15 on top?

living in the northeast, I expect to have my underside completely salted this winter.

somehow the previous owner did a decent job with keeping rust at bed. he must have went to the carwash twice a week.

Yes, and FF on top of it all. It will a dirty job, but saving the underside is worth it.

Waxing and cleaning your car, and ignoring the underside, is like a women who gets a tit job, but doesn't Kegal...what's the point?

The same goes for handling the underside, but ignoring the inner spaces of the frame, doors, and any other space expose to moisture on a regular basis...your frame with just rust inside out, hence my recommendation FF.

awesome! This is something I have to do within the next month.

Ill start ordering supplies.

how much do you think it will take to do the frame and other pieces underneath? a gallon of each?

Post a pic, and I can tell you, but you are probably pretty close with a gallon. Rust more only has to applied to the actually rusty areas, not any where there is paint. You should wire wheel and sand before application. Rust mort lasts forever as it is basically a mild acid, so even if you have extra, it won't go bad.

The POR 15, a gallon will do it for sure, and likelt with left over, that will not last more than year or less, once expose to air. If I remember right. a gallon does 250 square feet, but remember you are going to be on you back painting, so you will have waste.

Amazon has a Fluid Film gallon kit, with applicator, or you can go direct to site, (I think they are about the same price, but amazon prime ships in two days, free, )that will definitely do your whole car, including inside the doors and kicks. Amazon also has rust mort, and I would guess Por 15, so again with amazon prime, free shipping.

Sorry for the delay. Yes, dump it on everything but your brake rotors. The beauty is you can just hook it up to an air-powered spray gun and blast away. Quick & easy.

And to clarify some above posts, Por-15 should go on first, then FF on top. And I recommend getting the smaller 6-packs of POR-15, unless you're doing your entire frame at one time (which is a PITA and not worth it, IMO.) Just treat the bad areas with POR and dump FF all over everything. I recommend the 6-packs of POR over the gallons, because once you re-seal a POR can, you're not getting it open again. Stick with the smaller ones and use a whole can at a time.

Would typically a body shop do this ? Lots of surface rust on my 4runner. would be nice to have this be done on a lift, doing this on jackstands is just not possible for me.

ok so a quick supply list. correct me if im missing anything.

6 pack por15
Amazon.com: POR-15 45006-6PK Gloss Black Rust Preventive Coating - 4 fl. oz., (Pack of 6): Automotive

rust killer
http://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust...ords=mort+rust

Fluid film
http://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-nas...rds=fluid+film

sprayer
http://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Und...0_SR159%2C160_


wire brush (power)
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4930-...351JF0KEGVFN85

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4910-...E12TR44N13X0HE

brushes
http://www.amazon.com/Magnolia-Brush...n%3A7043051011

So I have the Mort stuff and 6 pack of por15 coming Monday.

I figure I'll order the FF after, as I think it will take a couple weekends to do the underside.

I'm going to apply FF to my truck this weekend. Do you take care in certain areas or basically just spray away?

It mentions to perhaps not spray rubber, anybody encounter problems spraying electrical wires or anything like that?

I did the Eastwood internal frame coating, but I'll probably FF the interior of the frame as well for extra protection.

FF is safe on electrical connections and most rubber as well - see the FAQ: Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

But on this page they mention it may soften some existing undercoatings - Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor - not too clear what undercoatings a T4R has to worry about here.

Got a gallon of FF and spray gun - jack and jack stands are next. Since I did not have a T4R to spray
it on I also just bought a 2008 T4R (from Tennessee) and want to spray it before this winter in sunny
Massachusetts.

I plan to spray everything except the brakes and exhaust components.
Guess I'm in the not worry about rubber or wires camp with this stuff.

Watch the brakes and exhaust. Other than that, blast away.

To all the POR15 lovers...are you guys actually following the application procedures with the de-greaser, metal-prep, then POR? Sure it's easy to slap a coat of paint on something and it look great short term, but I've seen so many long-term failures doing this. Just make sure you use products how the mfgr recommends.

For attacking rust, the best method is to eliminate it whenever possible, either through mechanical (e.g. wire wheel) or chemical (e.g. acids, chelation). Only if it's not possible to remove it should you consider the rust "converters".

Bare steel + a quality epoxy primer like SPI is my go-to for rust prevention.

For parts that can be removed, check out electrolysis, it's a very simple, cheap, and non-toxic way of removing rust. I've done in containers as large as 55 gallons with amazing results.

Sounds like a plan. Thank for the info!

If you live in New England, you could do what I do. Take it to Heaths in Loudon NH for a hot chain saw oil application! Thats all he does all summer long!