STOP SALTING THE ROADS !!!

WHY WHY WHY NO ONE STOPS department of transportation from salting the roads. They can use SAND INSTEAD.

WHAT would it take for the entire US to be salt free in the roads?

Trump needs to win a 3rd election for this to happen or what?

All my vehicles clean frame no rot even after 15 years. SO CAL NO SALT BACK HERE.

Only sand in mountain highways when it snows.

^good luck breaking up that racket. keep working hard, plenty of salt to pay for (and people who operate and dispense it, etc. etc.) and the car manufacturers must love it, keeping the purchasing on the 5-10 year plan. heard they dont put any coating on new silverados from a mechanic.

I scaled the frame and blew the sand out of the inside of it (lots). While scaling I found a couple spots that were no longer metal so welded some new steel in. Then it went in for inspection and a Fluid Film bath. Hopefully it does the job.

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Apologies for digging up an old post but I'm looking for some direction. I have an '08 that has a bit of surface rust. I have some shops quoted to clean it up/fluid film application it, but was looking for input first. Each seem to think very differently about what stage the rust is in and how to treat it. They are also all over the place on price. As I'm no expert, I'm looking for opinions on what route to go. I want to keep this vehicle for a long time so will do whatever is necessary to treat and prevent it correctly. (Also some spots are wet in the images sorry)

First shop wants to just apply fluid film over a two hour period and call it done for about $200

Second shop cleans the frame and underside-dries overnight-spray fluid film throughout entire underside in and out of frame etc for a day and letting dry overnight for $500

Third shop cleans frame and underside then wire brushes off existing rust and hand-applies 'rust resistant' paint. Then after paint dries they apply fluid film to the entire underside of the 4Runner. Costs about $800 - $1200

Appreciate any insight

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From what I can see yours looks pretty decent but you need to check some other areas. Check the front cross bar where the recovery points are. Check under the AC drain hose and think about rerouting it as mentioned in another thread here. Also check the horizontal flat areas about where your feet are when inside the car. IMO, the biggest thing is to make sure the inside of the frame is oiled well as all of the holes I have repaired rusted from the inside out. That last picture was the fluid film job on my car after I cleaned the frame, it was all gone after the winter so I am no longer going to waste my money on that product. I have heard ATF or bar&chain oil works better where the latter is super sticky. I already brushed on the b&c oil in the middle sections to see how it holds up. I plan on heating b&c oil up and spraying it inside my frame soon.

I'm hoping someone can help me find a solution to the frame on my '03 V8.

Some backstory: For all practical purposes, this is my "pet project" vehicle. I have replaced and upgraded many parts (engine components, new fluid lines, suspension upgrade, etc), all in my garage. I have no intention of ever selling the truck, as I have a lot of time and money invested in keeping it running as long as possible.

With it being an older vehicle in Wisconsin, there is surface rust present, but the frame overall is solid.

The issue is with one section of the frame, located behind the passenger side wheel well. Here's two images (one top-down and one underside) of the affected area:

IMG_20200928_224458055.jpg - Google Drive

IMG_20200928_224511898.jpg - Google Drive

What appears to have happened is a condensation line had been incorrectly routed to where there was a constant source of moisture on that segment of the frame, leading to it rusting through. I will re-route the line and I had intentions of cleaning and coating the underside of the whole truck myself to halt rust development, but after the extent of the damage became apparent (this past winter) I have put the project on hold as I explore options. I'd like to get the frame solid and then I'll seal it to stave off an entire frame swap.

I'm wondering if the Safe T Cap I purchased from autorust.com will be able to be installed and give more structural integrity to the truck's frame. Here is the product I have: Front Frame Section, V-8 Model (ART-200-R) Passenger side - autorust.com

I will eventually want to do a frame swap, but this is not in the cards for me at the moment- Right now I just want to improve the safety of the truck, and I would be very thankful for ya'lls opinion and expertise. If the cap and a patch or two isn't viable, is there a possibility of replacing the whole section? I'm not a welder, and this would be the first work I've really gone to a shop for my truck, so I greatly appreciate any help on this.

Really putting out the Bat-signal here. If anyone has suggestions to a shop, I'm all ears. I have a few days of work I need to take off before the New Year and am willing to travel to get this taken care of properly by a professional that won't talk down to me or shy away from the job. I'm in south-central Wisconsin.

Thanks! Ya'll rock!

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I have some CRC laying around and am just curious how you managed to get this stuff inside the frame rails without some type of spray wand? Anyone have ideas on that?

I got an '06 4Runner limited recently and am doing all the maintenance I can to it this spring. My rust prevention / treatment plan so far is this:

1. Wire brush as much loose / flaky rust off as possible, maybe a little sandpaper here and there too.
2. Clean entire undercarriage with a degreaser and/or soap & water. Rinse & let dry thoroughly.
3. Apply a rust converter to all rusty areas (either Corroseal ($50/ga) or Rust Mort ($100/ga), any feedback on this from anyone?)
4. Paint everything with Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black
5. Spray CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor on everything.
6. Apply Fluid Film inside frame rails with a 360° sprayer.

If I can somehow use the CRC on step 6 instead, I would. But I can't imagine how forum member waypoint above did it. Anyway, any feedback on my plan is appreciated!!

I took my ‘07 Ltd V8 for a Woolwax treatment today. I was very happy that I found no structural frame rust when I bought this 4Runner last month, just some rust at the welds. The cradle under the radiator and the rear bumper were pretty flaky but cleaned up enough to give me confidence they will last with this treatment applied.
I compared the frame’s condition to my buddy’s 2012 Tacoma and they were equal...even though his truck is 5 years newer with 100k less miles. And I am very happy with this product. Woolwax seems to be the answer to prolonging the life of my beloved ‘07. BTW, they had to cut the spare tire cable to remove it to spray that area. I tried to lower the spare yesterday but she was froze up solid. I bent the chintzy lowering tool and the lowering crank mechanism just wouldn’t budge. I’m just going to leave the spare in the garage. I have roadside assistance with my car insurance and will definitely use it should I be unfortunate enough to get a flat.

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I started using NHOU and like how it works. Its a mineral oil base that creeps under the rust to block out the air. You can get it in clear or black. Because Im under the truck all to often, I went clear. Its not a wax, or hard barrier that allows rust to grow underneath. Well worth the money and they sell diy kits. Because it creeps, you can spray into frame holes and parts you cant reach will eventually get protected.

Is NHOU the New Hampshire oil? I saw a video on that. The products name “Woolwax” is a little misleading. It is not a wax, but an organic substance made from the oil (lanolin) in sheep’s wool.
It also “creeps” into all the nooks and crannies after application. And there are do it yourself kits available. At 69 I try to limit my time under my vehicles...lol! It is usually to find a problem and then I hire someone else to do the work to correct it. My days of turning a wrench are pretty much over. Btw, I bought a used Tundra Rock Warrior a few years ago whose owner had Zeibarted every year. That undercarriage was not in good shape yet it was 3 years newer and half the miles of my 4Runner. The rubberized undercoating appear to speed up the rust process IMO.

I had a similar issue with a seized spare tire winch. Everthing was rusted to heck and it was frozen solid. They sell a replacement part with a chain that actually works really well. It is the ultimate bummer to install because there's hardly any room to get those stupid hanger bolts in. But you can do it! I would definitely bring the spare with you ... it will make life so much more pleasant should you get a flat!

As far as undercoating, there's a place locally that does the NHOU. They got in there and cleaned up the frame, applied some rust neutralizer, and sprayed on a good black oil undercoating. So far it really seems to work perfectly. I have heard that FluidFilm or Waxwool are better products but I couldn't find anywhere nearby that used those.