The Toyota manual says you need to remove the transmission and transfer case together. But this is not necessary, you can remove the TC from the tranny with the tranny still on so all of the steps related to removing the tranny are not necessary. Also, this is for a complete TC overhaul so if you are just replacing the o-ring then a lot of the steps on the TC are not needed. I used this manual when replacing my o-ring and it was very helpful, I just had to make sure I knew what steps to cross out.

Intersted to hear about this. Mine did the same thing. I just put it back in and hoped for the best. After reinstalling I worked up the courage to try my T case lock and it worked as it should. However, I have not had the courage to try my 4 low as I think this is the shift rod that "feel out" during removal of the actuator.

Any updates?

Same thing, any updates?

I tried and tried to get the timing right. The 4hi (a.k.a. normal - since its a v8) works fine but the center diff lock and 4lo do not (thing just beeps at me). Since I'm not going offroading besides parking lot curbs I'm letting it be until a solution can be found or i get a new actuator assy. The only thing I haven't done is loosen the bolts holding it on to the transfer case and try it like many have. To me that is for a stuck actuator not a timing thing. I can't tell you how many times I tried - I had the transfer case split apart even and still could not. All that would happen is the rod would go to far. Then I had to take off the actuator, take apart the actuator assy and reset the rod and gear to where I thought it should be (based on photos from my original tear down). if you get a solution you will b the man. @swapmeet

Just don't turn the truck on when the transfer case is out lol. Hyd fluid will spray out the tranny rear. Ask me how I know.

So let me get this straight. Did you do the procedure the OP posted? Or did you try the short cut of messing with the actuator?

Just to clairify, I have a new actuator on the way. I'm trying to make sure I have everything I need.

@BlackWorksInc I hate to have to call on you yet again, but I've searched the FSM's, and i'm still confused on what I need. As I mentioned, I have the actuator coming,
36410-60093
Also it was suggested that I get qty 3 of
90520-13002 (some snap ring that can break)

I'm still waiting to see if they have:
90301-56009 But i'm not sure what that does either. My plan was to figure it out when I started wrenching.

I'm mildly terrified by this process, but my actuator is shot... I have no 4Lo and no Center Diff Lock.

swapmeet,

I have done the OP procedure before so I think I can help.

905201-3002 is a snap ring that goes on the actuator shift rods. There are two on one rod and one on the other for a total of 3. You should have replacements in case they get banged up during removal. See attached removal picture and parts diagram (36311G).

90301-56009 is an o-ring that goes around the base of the actuator. It typically leaks so you want to replace this (36410N in parts diagram). It is also shown below in a pic from the OP.

Note: you may also want to get 2 new lock nuts that go on the two transfer case output flanges (90179-22016) and dust seals (90312-23001) for good measure.

Attached Images

     

GLP pretty much covered what is needed, I would make sure you use a good FIPG and take your time when sealing the transfer case halves together. But replacement of the actuator is pretty straight forward (just don't turn on the key until everything is all put together and tightened.

Thinking of doing this myself. How long does it usually take to do? I saw one post claiming a few hours, but I imagine it takes quite a bit more

Excellent write up. This will surely be very helpful to a lot of folks.. Props for posting it..

I can tell you that the teeth on the rods will cut the shizzle out of the o-rings if they are pulled through. Best thing you can do is not touch the actuator until the transfer case is in half. Then remove the two bolts on the rod. Then the bolts holding actuator on. The tolerance between rods and transfer case is insane and is what pulls the rods out when you pull actuator out by its black box vice pushing on rods while pulling box. But in your situation since you have a new actuator make sure you lube up the new rods to slide in transfer case. You do not want to mess with movement on new actuator. Your old actuator, if the rods don't get pulled out, can you take it apart carefully and photograph the gear placement. The timing gears are smaller white ones if i recall. ***Also do not run the actuator with the transfer case apart. I did this to figure out timing and one of the rods will just fall out because the lil dc motor will keep pushing it out since its stop is a piece on other half of case (in case you get that wild hair to op check it before installation. Give the sealant a day to dry before filling it up with gear oil too, worth the wait in my opinion.

To get those lil snap runs off use two flat head screw drivers. To put on on i used vice grips on snap ring middle then whacked with my hand. If you knick the rods, like where the snap rings are, and you might, the knick must be removed or the rod won't slide out transfer case, its that tight - 2003 (AUG 2002) SE for reference

Concerning all the folks need to know the timing..... The fact that mine would be timed correctly has crossed my mind.

I'll see if I can gain some insight. I believe my actuator has mud and crud inside, hence the reason i'm replacing it. So i'm not certain what i'll find when I open it up.

I've considered opening it, cleaning it, trying to test it, and selling it as a used part assuming it functions properly.

Sooooooo here's the problem - if your rods come out the timing is messed up and essentially any info derived from taking it apart is useless. When the rod is forced out it moves the gears. The best case scenerio is take it out without rod movement. It would be interesting to know if yours seized from gear oil pentetrating the rod orings, the large oring failing or friction on the locking mechanism over the large gears in transfer case. I'm still mad at mine because it worked fine and I took it apart to fix a crack in transfer case and a rod fell out. My mind is blown still too over no instructions from the company on how to retime it. It is very uncomplicated inside the assy, just where the gears make the connection to start/stop rod movement.