So I also have the dreaded leak, and despite exercising the system once a month, my CDL no longer works. I plan on splitting the case and just replacing the entire actuator. Has anyone used this complete actuator from RockAuto? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...se+motor,10323

Based on the picture, it appears that it would already come with all of the seals, and this would be a simple 'remove and replace' after splitting the case. Would that be correct?

Thanks

Based on my recent experience with synthetic motor oil leaking through the valve cover gaskets when conventional oil doesn't, I'm wondering how many of the problems with the transfer case leak are due to running synthetic gear oil.

The only time I ever got a drop or two leak in our 14 year old 4 runner was with the semi synthetic oil change from 100% conventional 6 months ago, so I went back to conventional.

In our 2005 4runner the leak was about 10 drops the week after the one time semi synthetic oil change, and then those few drips stopped by themselves.

Now, only straight conventional 10W 40 here in Nassau Bahamas - where the temps never get below 62 degrees in the winter.

No semi synthetic any more, and glad I didn't try full synthetic. Why manufactures all use synthetic in their new cars is a mystery to me, as it surely will leak in time.

Change every 5000 miles.

145,000 miles... no rust except the bar under the radiator which I controlled with corrosion X spray (which turned it black).

I used LiquiMoly 75w-90 and I have no leak since the change. Must be an ingredient that helps the seals. Also have noticed that parking uphill added to the propensity to weep.

Interesting take. I always do a blend, 5W-30 warm and cold seasons, no problem yet, leak, etc.

I hope you are staying out of harms way down there.

Well, I finally tackled this project. To be honest, I'm a novice shade tree mechanic at best, and initially felt this was above my ability. I purchased a new actuator a year or so ago, trying to work up the courage to do it myself, or suckup the cost and have it done for me. I contacted two well known transmission shops in town, and neither would take the job. They saw what was involved, and said no thanks. Didn't even give me some ridiculously high quote--just no. The local dealership wanted $1,650 in labor alone. With the Coronapocolypse giving me a bunch of unexpected time at home, I figured it's now or never.

The initial write up is great, and I appreciate the OP, and every one else who added some advice along the way. I didn't have the leaking problem that others have had. My issue was that the actuator wouldn't operate the CDL at all, and would operate the low range inconsistently. I bought the Asin actuator from ebay--I think it was right at $500. I also bought 3 new shift rod c-clips, just in case i lost or damaged them. I meant to buy a new actuator breather hose, as mine was cracked (and quite possibly the ultimate cause of my issue) but I forgot. However the auto parts store had the correct size hose, so I made my own.

I managed to borrow a scissor transmission jack, which was worth it's weight in gold. Like some other posters here, I fabricated a jig to hold the t-case level on top of the jack. This made reinstalling much easier. If anyone is planning on doing this job and wants my jig, it's yours for free (but it's just scrap lumber that anyone could make). One thing I can add is when you get to the point of splitting the case, look at the top side, just above the front driveshaft output--there is a feature on the case designed for some kind of special tool to 'screw' the case apart. I just used a long bolt with a nut, tightened the bolt, and presto--the case splits right in half.


I wont lie--every step of the way I felt i was in over my head. But the OP is well written, and covers everything. Have the right tools on hand, follow the OP and take your time. I would estimate it took me right at 12 hours, and I wasn't in a hurry (and I changed the oil as long as I was under there).

This is a great tip! Thanks for adding the “how to” on splitting the tcase. I’ll be doing mine this Friday so hopefully it goes as smooth as what everyone says here. I’m sure how you were feeling, will be how I’ll be feeling as well.

Where are you located? If local, I’ll take you up on that offer for the tcase jig made up of lumber.

So I managed to get things back together and somehow its timed for it to be in 4hi, unlocked with no dash lights.
I do have an entire extra tcase from a V6 torn down and taking up space in my garage if anyone needs/wants any parts.
I do think that the little indicator wheels line up when the actuators are in 4lo and CDL and are at about 5-0clock when unlocked and in 4hi (actuators all the way into the case).

I tried to order the 15x23x7, and they're on backorder and will take 30-45 days for them to re stock. AVX seals offered to send the 15x23x5 instead. Would the thickness of the seal make a difference or should I just wait for the re stock? I live in Canada so I'm having a hard time finding alternatives.

When installing a new actuator, is there anything special you have to do as far as what setting the case should be in when installing? As in, my T-case is in 4-Hi (v8, 4wd) and I was wanting to replace the actuator. Do you need to move it to 4-Lo? I haven’t been able to find out for sure. From reading posts, it sounds like the actuators come set in 4-Lo, and when used for the first time there’s a clunk heard. After the clunk sound things work well, but I’m wondering if that’s occurring because of the mismatch.

Rocket Seals (http://rocketseals.com/) had the correct seal in stock yesterday when I ordered 2. It is part # 15x23x7-MOS-ADL. I called in and ordered, not thrilled that they were $8/ea, but my leak has gotten worse and I couldn't wait for AVX any longer (seems perpetually out of stock there).

I have torn the TC apart to replace the orings in the TC and actuator. I will be doing a write up with pictures once I re assemble. I ran into one issue upon re assembly and need some assistance. When I unbolted the first shift fork, the first large gear slide off amd I don’t know the exact position it needs to be in. There are three slots inside where some of the gear teeth are missing. I assume they are aligned on the shaft in a position that allows proper shifting and or lubrication. I know the second gear and fork (last image) are in the right position as I photographed before disassembling. Thanks in advance.

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a good auto trans guy here was not willing to do this one. had a bad experience