I own a 2006 Toyota 4Runner sport 4.0 V6. About a week ago I noticed my key fob was not unlocking or locking the back drivers side door. I then tried to do it manually using the master lock on the driver side and that failed as well. So I replaced the fuses and when that failed, my last resort is thinking that the actuator had gone bad. Now before i spent 200+$ on a whole new unit and go through the work of fixing it myself, I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this issue. I've read a few posts online and videos on youtube about using door lock motor that would fit inside the actuator housing.

Now knowing there are multiple other parts that contribute to unlocking the door, is it safe the say this is the case or should I just proceed with buying the actuator.

If it's just the motor, the videos online and websites I've found say not all toyotas in this year range use the same style "shaft" for the motor. Does anyone know if it's flat, half circled.

My plan was to at worst, buy one of each motor (about $7 a piece on eBay) and then buy the whole new actuator. If the motor resolved the issue, I could just take the actuator back.

Thank you all for the read.

Did you ever replace the motor within the assembly? My right rear has failed on my '06, I found/watched a YouTube video for some other Toyota model (not 4R). Easily pulled the whole assembly but couldn't figure out to disassemble to pull the motor out, so put it all back together. I've found the place on eBay that sells the whole assembly for a little over a hundred dollars, but thought if I could just replace the cheap motor I'd rather go that route.

i'm having the actuator problem, does anyone here know if this is the correct part for 4 runners? i have a 2006.

Door Lock Actuator Motor with Brass Collar FC-280PT-22125 Mabuchi Type, Nichibo Brand

thanks!

Door Lock Actuator Motor with Brass Collar FC-280PT-22125 Mabuchi Type, Nichibo Brand

JR-- that's the issue I'm having. I pulled the whole mechanism but got scared trying to disassemble it to have a look at the motor.

I have a complete unit ordered, then I will disassemble and find out the motor replacement needed...

excellent, I definitely appreciate you posting your findings. I've got to fix 3 of these and am hoping this is the answer. Thanks

I have now replaced the entire lock actuator assembly with a rebuilt from eBay, and works fine. Easy to do. Cost a little over $100. I have two 2006 4Rs with over 100,000 miles each, so assume I will have more failures in the future.

I'm planning to open the old actuator assembly and see if I can figure out how to just replace the lock actuator motor for future expected failures. Haven't tried yet, but wondering if anyone else has or if anyone has tips on how to open up the actuator assembly. That plastic is fairly fragile...

I have a 2007 SR5 and all the actuators failed. I decided to replace them with new motors and a new actuator on the drivers door. (I didn't want to risk breaking the main entry actuator when I opened it up)
Amazon sells the motors for $9 each and the Dorman driver door actuator for $117.

Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT by Mabuchi $9

Dorman driver door actuator, 931-400 $117

When replacing just the motor you don't have to completely open up the actuator.
Remove the soft plastic cap piece along the edge. Remove the small screw holding the top and bottom clam shell together.
Locate the part of the actuator that has the body of the motor molded in. Use a pair of small flat blade screw drivers to open the clips along the motor the side of the actuator and wedge the other screw driver along the edge to hold it open. Open the actuator up enough to wedge the screw driver handle in to keep it open.
Note where the large nylon gear is located and it's position because it usually falls off it's post.
Remove motor and worm gear. Carefully test fit the new motor on the electrical contact posts to make sure the spacing is the same or adjust before pushing the new motor back in. Replace worm gear and the mating large gear and snap it all back together.

I just replaced my font right door lock motor with the above mentioned motor from fleabay and it works great. The directions above were perfect. One thing to note is that the standard or 10mm flat shaft is the one to purchase. At least it was for my 2007 Limited 4Runner. At $6.50, it sure beats the alternative of over $150. This is where I bought the motor, Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Repair Motor Flat Shaft Brass Collar FC 280pt 22125 | eBay

I replaced all my motors, in every door. Drivers side door twice. I will be honest there was a learning curve on the doors with key locks. The rears are easier to do. But worst case is an Amazon overnight order if you crack the housing. Even the drivers door which I broke the case I was able to get it back in and working while I waited for the Amazon order to replace the entire unit.

Little off topic, but that 10mm flat is the same motor Toyota uses for the 2012 Camry also. Just replaced front driver's side on the wife's car.

I just did this and wasn't bad at all! Thanks for the write up! It might be a known thing but after a long time of frustration I figured out that it's a lot easier to reinstall the unit if you pull the lock cylinder 🙄😅

Just wanted to say thanks to Parker. I ordered this motor and fixed my failed door lock motor. Saved me $150. Thanks brother.

Thanks for the information everyone! All three of my locks, both rear and front passenger are not working on my '05 Sport. Correct me if I am wrong; if I buy the Dorman for my driver's front door, then three motors for the other three doors, I could save over $450 bucks potentially?


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I replaced the front driver's side actuator motor on my 2017 last night. That part was simple and all seems to be in working order as my key fob can again lock and unlock the door.

However, now the outside door handle is not working. Did I know something loose when removing the actuator? I'm sure it is a simple fix, but I have not had time to look into the issue.

Theres a little arm inside the door that has to go over a pin on the actuator



The pin needs to go in the slot. See how this one isn't aligned right, probably how yours ended up. Look through this hole as you get it through the door