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Old 09-16-2016, 07:08 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riceandpho View Post
so you dont use a shorter belt with your high output alternator? i know my mechman alternator uses a smaller pulley that required me to use a belt half inch to 1 inch shorter than stock.
Probably I just haven't swapped mine yet. I know I was chatting with another guy in a different thread that provided part #s for a shorter belt.

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Old 09-18-2016, 09:49 PM #32
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Probably I just haven't swapped mine yet. I know I was chatting with another guy in a different thread that provided part #s for a shorter belt.

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i think that was me lol.
5070835 dayco is stock size
5070825 dayco is 1 inch shorter
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:58 PM #33
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Originally Posted by riceandpho View Post
i think that was me lol.
5070835 dayco is stock size
5070825 dayco is 1 inch shorter
Hahah. Probably. I lose track of who I'm talking to half the time. I'm pretty active across multiple forums and sometimes the technical threads get crossed since I have the 4.0 in both my runner and my Tacoma.

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Old 03-21-2017, 09:58 AM #34
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Does anyone have the correct lengths handy for the - battery to chassis, + battery to starter, and + battery to alternator wires? My - battery to chassis and fender wires are in rough shape so I need to replace. Figured I'd complete the big 3 upgrade while I'm at it.

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:30 PM #35
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Originally Posted by pearlj10 View Post
Does anyone have the correct lengths handy for the - battery to chassis, + battery to starter, and + battery to alternator wires? My - battery to chassis and fender wires are in rough shape so I need to replace. Figured I'd complete the big 3 upgrade while I'm at it.

Thanks
you will always want extra, i say get like 5 for pos, 8 for neg.
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:25 PM #36
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Ok, so what is "the big 3 upgrade"?
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:32 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiX View Post
Ok, so what is "the big 3 upgrade"?
Its basically a mains wiring upgrade for your trucks electrical...

Generally it consists of upgrading the size of the wire that connects the alternator positive to the battery, negative cable from the battery to the chassis, and the chassis ground to the engine block.

Basically you do this is reduce voltage drop across the system (making it more efficient), and to build up the electrical system so it can actually handler higher amp loads. That includes but not limited to a high output alternator upgrade.

Its a pretty basic upgrade, but it's not always needed depending on what your actual needs are, but it also never hurts to do it.
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Old 04-07-2019, 01:28 PM #38
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2002 4Runner

I want to do the big three upgrade and I understand most of it the only question I have is while tracing my current wiring I see the wire from the alternator goes to my fuse box and then to my positive battery. Is it running through a fuse hear or was that just how they ran power to the fuse box. In all the pics and post I see/read about going straight from the alt to the battery
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Old 04-07-2019, 08:38 PM #39
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Originally Posted by jpgade13 View Post
I want to do the big three upgrade and I understand most of it the only question I have is while tracing my current wiring I see the wire from the alternator goes to my fuse box and then to my positive battery. Is it running through a fuse hear or was that just how they ran power to the fuse box. In all the pics and post I see/read about going straight from the alt to the battery
its running through a 140amp fuse in the fuse box, when doing big 3, fuse the positive wire , find a 140amp fuse, but most likely to fine 120-125 amp.
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:55 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sr3tlaw View Post
lol, I feel ya. Maybe someone will chime in and point us to this mystery ground zero.

I have much more pressing electrical problems though. My voltage is all over the place. Even after new 3 new alternators I'm hovering at 13.1v with no load, and 12.7 with hi beams, A/C etc.. on.
I found it by accident. Didn’t see if anyone had posted this or not, but while doing my Doug Thirley headers, the block ground connection is behind the factory manifold cats on the drivers side. Now behind my headers. I am also upgrading all battery cables and will be pulling the intake tomorrow. Just wanted to share in case anyone was still wondering.
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Old 10-25-2021, 01:00 PM #41
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5th gen

I want to do this on my 2012. Any have a diagram or have done it?
I am wanting to separate the starter wire from the rest of the vehicles wires?
Is this possible?
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Old 07-04-2022, 06:21 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pearlj10 View Post
Does anyone have the correct lengths handy for the - battery to chassis, + battery to starter, and + battery to alternator wires? My - battery to chassis and fender wires are in rough shape so I need to replace. Figured I'd complete the big 3 upgrade while I'm at it.

Thanks
Can anybody tell me what wires run where? I've got a ground going from the negative side of the battery to the fender well and down to the engine block with another smaller ground wire coming off of that going to the frame . I have a positive wire from battery going to starter and then a positive going to a wire on the left side of the fuse box , and then a positive wire going from the alternator stud to the stud on the right side of the fuse box.... That right??
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Old 07-04-2022, 07:17 PM #43
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How do they run factory? I thought from positive side of battery to :
1) the starter bolt.
2) the eyelit coming out of the front corner of fuse box
Then from stud on alternator to the stud on right corner of fuse box?

negative side of battery to ;
1) engine block/frame
2) fender well
3) frame
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Old 05-19-2023, 12:32 AM #44
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The Starter Cable has a second 10Ga wire at the Starter end

Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelreed View Post
My original 2005 battery went tits up a couple months ago. I picked up a sears diehard platinum group 65 battery. The battery is larger and the battery posts are on the front of the battery instead of the rear like the stock one. Because of this I had to extend the main battery cables. I saw a couple of threads where people had asked about where the battery cables went and how to replace them etc. The positive battery cable goes to the starter and the negative battery cable goes to the engine block close to the starter. The rest is pretty self-explanatory it's just sort of a rats nest to undo.

You should end up with this hot mess.
The Starter Cable (the longest in this picture) has a second 10Ga wire at the Starter end (the left end in the picture). Can you tell me where that wire goes? On my 2003 4Runner this wire was severed but it looks like it travels along with the main cable inside a wiring harness and then exits the harness and connects to a ground point. But how can that be when it connects to the constant 12V starter pin?

Last edited by mdimascio; 05-19-2023 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 05-19-2023, 04:14 PM #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdimascio View Post
The Starter Cable (the longest in this picture) has a second 10Ga wire at the Starter end (the left end in the picture). Can you tell me where that wire goes? On my 2003 4Runner this wire was severed but it looks like it travels along with the main cable inside a wiring harness and then exits the harness and connects to a ground point. But how can that be when it connects to the constant 12V starter pin?
The second one may be to make sure the starter has a good ground. Check out the video below around the 7:20 timeframe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NihAGqw44Ec
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