04-19-2006, 12:00 PM
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#1
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How to Dyno a 4WD V8
I guess I should start asking now because I plan on dynoing my 2005 V8 4x4 on Friday. Center dif locked? Unlocked? Don't dyno at all?
Dyno is a dynojet in-floor inertial AWD dyno with 2 drums recording and 2 dummy drums. Check it out:
http://www.macautosport.com/?action=awddyno
What are your thoughts?
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04-19-2006, 12:30 PM
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#2
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I locked my center diff they told me that it turns off the trac-control and they didnt want it to kick in if the wheels spun and second reason was that the power was equal at the front and rear wheels? It did not hurt anything good luck
Last edited by 064runnersport; 04-19-2006 at 12:49 PM.
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04-19-2006, 01:33 PM
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#3
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I would make two passes, one locked, and one not locked. The one with more hp would be the one I would use as the base number. You would need to make sure that when you re-dyno, after mods, you use the same center diff position.
The dyno operator should know which to use. You could also contact Dynojet to get it from the horse's mouth.
Koz
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04-19-2006, 02:44 PM
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#4
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Great. Thanks for the input, guys. That is pretty much what I was thinking Koz, making one locked and one unlocked. My main concern is how fast can I go w/ it locked? Also, I knew if I leave it unlocked the traction control will interfere.
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04-19-2006, 03:47 PM
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#5
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OK, its official. I'm having the baseline dyno at 11am on friday. I'll report results as soon as I can afterwards.
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04-19-2006, 04:01 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally posted by OUTRNNR
OK, its official. I'm having the baseline dyno at 11am on friday. I'll report results as soon as I can afterwards.
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can I guess?????????
213 awhp!!!!
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04-19-2006, 04:27 PM
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#7
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im going with 06 on this one, you should be in the 205 to 215hp (19%-22% drive line loss) depending on atmospheric conditions, diff setting and overal strength of engine.
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05 SE V8 4wd Natural White
Magnaflow Exhaust, Toyo Proxes S/T, Volant CAI, Stop Tech F/R SS Brake lines, Axxis Ultimate F/R Pads, Valvoline SynPower Dot4 Fluid, NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs, Sylvania Silver Star Ultra lights (Lows, Highs, Fogs), Water Wetter, Front 4Runner Sill Protectors, Pioneer DEH-P80MP Deck, Alpine Type-S 6x9F & 6 1/2R, Infinity Bass Link II
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04-19-2006, 05:59 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Casper
im going with 06 on this one, you should be in the 205 to 215hp (19%-22% drive line loss) depending on atmospheric conditions, diff setting and overal strength of engine.
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I don't know guys...I'm thinking 200+ is optimistic at this point: A) Because the dyno I'm going to use is around 5800 ft. altitude, and B) I think 19%-22% drivetrain loss is optimistic. I was reading somewhere that STi's and Evo's have around 30% losses, and they are viscous coupling difs, where mine will be locked mechanically (= more loss). What do you think?
*EDIT* OK, I just looked up someone else here on the forum who dynoed his non-vvt V8 4x4 and experienced around 19% loss, so maybe it will be 200+, we'll just have to wait and see now won't we...
So howcome I read somewhere that STi's and Evo's have 30%?? Are they really that bad? Or was it just bad info?
Last edited by OUTRNNR; 04-19-2006 at 06:07 PM.
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04-19-2006, 10:06 PM
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#9
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my 06 at 800 miles dynoed 213 awhp on a awd mustang dyno with the diff locked without it the traction control would cut in and cause erratic sp? readings but that is at almost sea level good luck with the dyno.... I know when I go to tahoe my runner runs alot more slugish than when Im in the valley......
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04-19-2006, 10:30 PM
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#10
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Conner,
forgot about that man...at 6000' you have lost approx 30% of power out put due to the pressure altidude even at Standard Pressure and Temp.
Even though you are slightly under 6000' you should expect to see an automatic 30% chop off the SAE rated nubmers. Then take 20% of that for drive line loss.
so really man you should be looking for a number in the 160's....ouch.
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05 SE V8 4wd Natural White
Magnaflow Exhaust, Toyo Proxes S/T, Volant CAI, Stop Tech F/R SS Brake lines, Axxis Ultimate F/R Pads, Valvoline SynPower Dot4 Fluid, NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs, Sylvania Silver Star Ultra lights (Lows, Highs, Fogs), Water Wetter, Front 4Runner Sill Protectors, Pioneer DEH-P80MP Deck, Alpine Type-S 6x9F & 6 1/2R, Infinity Bass Link II
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04-19-2006, 10:47 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Casper
Conner,
forgot about that man...at 6000' you have lost approx 30% of power out put due to the pressure altidude even at Standard Pressure and Temp.
Even though you are slightly under 6000' you should expect to see an automatic 30% chop off the SAE rated nubmers. Then take 20% of that for drive line loss.
so really man you should be looking for a number in the 160's....ouch.
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Yep, oh well.
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04-20-2006, 07:01 AM
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#12
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It looks like the diff needs to be locked. The dyno operator will adjust for altitude. According to my calculations you will loose approx 17% HP @ 1 mile high. There are like 10 different factors that determine the correction factor. Tire air pressure is important; I would pump them up to 40psi. Make sure they use a sniffer to see what the air/fuel looks like.
Koz
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04-20-2006, 08:32 AM
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#13
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Use 91/93 octane and do a little WOT before hand. Get the ECU into shape.
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04-20-2006, 09:13 AM
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#14
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I'm trying to locate a dyno shop in my area so I can get some idea of what's doing.
Koz
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04-20-2006, 09:34 AM
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#15
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I'm going to run with it locked for the first two runs and if I get good consistent numbers for those I'll run unlocked for the last one. If I get bad or inconsistent numbers I'll run locked for the 3rd run. I'm going to leave my tires as they are, because a) I don't feel like messing with it, and b) I want to simulate real world conditions as much as possible, so that also means I'll be running mid-grade (87 octane in CO). That is what I'll be running my Unichip on so that way I keep the results the same. I'll be sure to report down the line if premium fuel has an effect on the unichip...
I wonder if they'll give me real power and corrected power, so I could compare the real power w/ someone at sea level and actually see what the loss is. Thanks for the help guys!
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