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Old 05-02-2015, 05:51 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieRoe View Post
Definately one of the best, if not the best, ATF fluid exchange/drain/ write up.



Thanks for the taking the time!

Thanks. I figure the details might help someone who's anxious about trying it. I wasn't sure what to expect and turns out it wasn't that bad at all. New struts and shocks are next!
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:31 AM #17
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Great detailed write up! Thank you for taking the time to document everything step by step.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:18 AM #18
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I was under my truck today to replace my tie rods and took a look at the transmission. Mine is a 2004 4-speed A340F with a dipstick so it's going to be a little different from most of yours but I'm still hoping that you can help.

I follow all of the details of this writeup and I obviously see the need for a drain plug, overflow plug, and fill plug on your transmissions. On mine, however, I only saw a drain plug. Is that right or am I missing something?

If that's right, I assume that I use the dipstick port as the fill port and the dipstick itself to check the fluid level. With the dipstick, do I still need to put it in 'transmission oil temp check mode?'

Does the fluid level tend to increase or decrease after you drive it? I don't want to fill it to the right level, drive it around the block a few times, and then find out that it's way too full and I need to drain some back out.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:03 AM #19
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You do not need to put your truck in oil check mode. I do not even know if there is such a mode on models with the 4-speed trans. Your dipstick should have cold and hot markings on it for the fluid level. You fill through the dipstick tube.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:55 AM #20
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That's what I was thinking. Thanks for verifying.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:46 AM #21
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From the research I did prior to doing changes, it is not oil check mode per se. It is really temp check mode. I simply overfill it by about half a quart, drive around 10-15 minutes and drain through the overflow plug until it starts to trickle out.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:07 AM #22
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Quote:
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I agree, excellent write-up!

Only comment I have add is if you have the tow package you can pull the trans-cooler lines in front of your radiator which is much easier than accessing lines from underneath.
Yep, it is very easy.

I also am not a fan of letting the transmission pump out 2 quarts before putting any back in. Probably will not harm anything, its just a personal feeling. When I did mine I let the transmission pump out the old fluid while I also poured fluid back into the transmission from the return line. It pumps out slow enough that you can gauge it pretty well to make it an even exchange. When the transmission pumps out nothing but bright red and clean fluid you stop the engine and stop pouring back in. Reconnect the lines and remove fluid level check plug to drain off any excess fluid or to let you know if you need to add any. take it for a drive to warm up and check transmission temperature. I used a thermal scanner on the pan since the temp range is broad enough the thermal scanner will work perfectly. remove check plug again to drain off excess fluid. I think I ended up draining about 1/2 qt total of excess fluid. That was 55k miles ago and she is doing great. I plan on doing it again next year probably.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:24 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilC View Post
From the research I did prior to doing changes, it is not oil check mode per se. It is really temp check mode. I simply overfill it by about half a quart, drive around 10-15 minutes and drain through the overflow plug until it starts to trickle out.
Correct. It's a temp check mode since there is no dedicated dash gauge and we, with the "sealed" trannies, don't have a dipstick with hot and cold markings.

@NielC - I'd be curious how the Valvoline Maxlife is working (I realize it is labeled as compatible with the WS standard). I know others have used it. I know there is a video of Eric the Car Guy using it on a 04 Runner. When I changed my fluid I just bought a case of WS ATF from the dealer for a decent price. But I don't mind saving a few more $ with the Valvoline. I think my WS worked out to be around $8/qt.

I also did successive drain and fills for my fluid flush. I'd have to go count my leftover ATF bottles to try and remember how many drain/fills I did but I think I did 3 rounds. 1. I didn't want to run low on fluid trying to get as many rotations as possible. I too got about 3.5 qts on a drain ( I also jacked up the nose to get a smidge more out) 2. BY my 3rd drain and fill my fluid was looking much better. A nice red color (but not quite brand new red). I felt it was sufficient. I was having no issues prior, I just new I was a little overdue and had to get it done.

FIY:
I dropped my pan and changed my gasket but if you are only performing this per the interval, and not have any shifting issues, I'd say dropping the pan isn't necessary. Also I don't think changing the filter is really needed (although it is pretty easy). I know blackworks had stated that there is no maint. interval listed for the filter, so officially it's not a regular maint. step to be performed. Putting the pan back on wasn't hard, but the whole time I was nervous that I'd find a leak once all was said and done (and then wish I had left it alone). BUT, it went fine. I'd say make SURE you don't over tighten those bolts. They don't take much torque at all. I'm sure you're SOL if you strip/snap one
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:48 PM #24
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I just bought a case of the Toyota Type-IV ATV fluid from the dealer since that's what's called for in my truck. The 'standard' prices was a little more than $8 per quart. They have a lower price that they charge to shops and that was only $6.20 a quart which is what they gave it to me for. I buy a lot of odd little things from them that I can't get anywhere else so they tend to give me price breaks when possible.

This is only an FYI. I don't know if the Toyota stuff is any better than other stuff but I thought that the price was fair enough that I didn't go around looking for alternatives.
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:17 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdbyrne View Post
I just bought a case of the Toyota Type-IV ATV fluid from the dealer since that's what's called for in my truck. The 'standard' prices was a little more than $8 per quart. They have a lower price that they charge to shops and that was only $6.20 a quart which is what they gave it to me for. I buy a lot of odd little things from them that I can't get anywhere else so they tend to give me price breaks when possible.

This is only an FYI. I don't know if the Toyota stuff is any better than other stuff but I thought that the price was fair enough that I didn't go around looking for alternatives.
Same for me. Since I usually go to the same parts dept for my spark plugs, oil filter, etc... all the OEM stuff, I get a discounted price.
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:24 PM #26
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The maxlife has worked great. Shifts perfectly. The process is inherently wasteful though. You waste fluid in the hoses pumping it in and when you overfill it to check the level. Originally I planned to do 4 drains over a couple of weekends. I planned to reuse the washer until the last drain and fill but retorquing the drain plug that many times with the old washer buggered up the threads so I bought a new plug and a bunch of washers. Reusing them leads to problems. I buy t he gallon jug from Walmart for like $16 and pump the entire jug in and drive it for a while then drain until it is the correct level. Its easy was you know the process.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:06 PM #27
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Same for me. Since I usually go to the same parts dept for my spark plugs, oil filter, etc... all the OEM stuff, I get a discounted price.
Carquest sells it cheaper.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:28 PM #28
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Carquest sells it cheaper.
The NGK's? I do also get stuff from car quest. I found the p/n cross reference for my knuckle seals and CV shaft seals when I replaced the CV axles. One of my National seals for the steering knuckle even had the toyota p/n stamped on it with the National brand stamp...


BTW: native Oregonian here.... Oregon City..
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:42 AM #29
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The NGK's? I do also get stuff from car quest. I found the p/n cross reference for my knuckle seals and CV shaft seals when I replaced the CV axles. One of my National seals for the steering knuckle even had the toyota p/n stamped on it with the National brand stamp...


BTW: native Oregonian here.... Oregon City..
carquest has the toyota type iv fluid. Price has gone up since i purchased it last, but still only 6.19 qt. As far as plugs, etc., I always get parts from advance auto when they have the 50 off 125 coupons, which is almost every other week it seem like. great deals. I got mobil 1 syn gear oil for about 7 bucks a qt and platinum ngks for around 6 a piece iirc.

I am an Oregon transplant, but I will always be a bit Utarded (from Utah).
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:13 AM #30
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Nice write up!

I did the exactly same thing to my 4Runner 2 years ago. Tacomaworld has a good write up how to do the 'full flush' on a Tacoma which basically is the same way to change. I used that write up and everything went smoothly!
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