Ive got them on all my cars. The volume is so small, you dont need to top off the fluid level. BTW, the most wear on a transmission is in the first 5,000 miles. Now is the time to install it. Clean out all the break in bits before they can ruin the tranny.

I agree with Drcoffee, now would be the best time.

Also since the filter goes in line, it will be saturated soon after start up so no need to pre fill the filter. It will not effect your fill level.

You may not be interested in a drain and fill but you may consider it. Yes it is not technically do until 60,000 but, draining the break in / wear material say at 20,00 and adding the magnefilter will go a long way to longevity and your peace of mind.

I also enjoy the content from Car Care Nut and he is very knowledgeable but, there are a differing of opinions on some things. This thread is a prime example of that. Car Care Nut would exclusively recommend OEM fluids, when by many peoples opinions, the synthetic fluids in this thread have shown great results for the ones who have decided to use them. Adding a magnefilter couldn’t hurt even if it’s not entirely necessary.

Magnefine filters are sealed so I assume you simply replace it at the recommended interval? Can you tell whether it's doing anything without cutting it open?

Without cutting it open? No

I run it 50,000 miles. And I always cut it open when replacing it. It tells me the health of the tranny.

In the videos I've seen, cutting it open deposits a bunch of metal shavings on the magnet and media, making it hard to tell what was there and what came from the cutting. Is that an issue?

I use a pipe cutter to open filters.

I forgot to fit mine when I did my flush. Is the general consensus ATF level won't be an issue?

No the unit is a plastic case. You arent cutting metal.

30,000 mile Magnefine filter change - YouTube

@SurferUK
As small as the filter is, there really isn’t a chance it is going to effect the fill level. It is no where near the volume of say a engine oil filter which may hold 1/2 quart.

I assume Drcoffee is using the 1/2” black plastic version which differs from the version Bluesky 07 is speaking of. Surely there are ways to cut the metal version open without confusing the results.

In case it’s helpful to anyone considering a transmission cooler, here are my temps after an hour of trail riding today, all in 4WD, mostly 4HI but with some 4LO mixed in. Outside temp was 78 and mine is a Hayden 698.

Has anyone done a pan drop and reused the gasket? I'm about to do an exchange and have a filter ready to go in, but am just realizing that this trans doesn't use FIPG like the 1UZ, so didn't get a gasket. Did an exchange on the GX before but never changed the filter so it should be done. Gasket looks like a pretty solid material from parts photos. I did a Chevy recently and was able to reuse that gasket easily but have never used anything but FIPG on a Toyota so am not sure what the gasket material is.

Edit, gasket is pretty stiff and there's a ridge in the pan that imprints the gasket and doesn't readily bounce back, creating potential leaks. So best to do like they say and replace if you're in there.

2003 V6 113k. Did two vacuum extractions of 3.78l/128oz via the dipstick and replaced with Valvoline MaxLife. Assuming dry fill is 12.3l, per service manual 2-30 sst40001.pdf, and homogenous mixing, new fluid is currently at 52% of trans fluid volume. Good enough for a day where I was lazy. I plan to do a gallon vac exchange during the next several oil changes to reach ~85% "new fluid," it really wont be new fluid but its good enough for my purposes.

Also noted that it was difficult to source the transmission fluid. AutoZone had one MaxLife gal and Walmart had one as well, but virtually no other trans fluid in stock. Bare bones all the way around.

Thought about going with Motul, but its really not necessary in the 4runner as I do not drive it hard, tow, or rack up mileage. Valvoline synthetic seems to fit the requirements.

Calculation of % new fluid at above-stated volumes:
1 30.7%
2 52.0%
3 66.8%
4 77.0%
5 84.1% target, return probably diminished at 4 but its fine
6 89.0%
7 92.3%

Given that some people on the Original fill high mile ATF thread have never even changed the fluid, what are people's thoughts on not disturbing the factory seal on the drain pan and leaving the metal mesh filter well enough alone, BUT changing the fluid completely with this method every 60,000 miles?

Truck doesn't work hard at all with fuel prices at $2.20 per litre for the good stuff...it cruises...

I waited until 165k to change my filter. It was well coated with fine black particles (clutch?). I drive it hard, load it down and used to haul trailers regularly. I'll change the fluid again in another 75k prob since towing less with it now but doubt I'll open the case again until it needs a rebuild. I'd say change a filter once around 150-200k

That's great real world info thanks mate. I'm all for servicing but sometimes in the grand scheme of things "less is more"/"If it ain't broke don't fix it" (Snapped bolt, seal that won't seal properly afterwards, etc) especially when doing these enhanced fluid exchanges.