Hand check each lug nuts mine was out of pitch and causing each one to snap. Either that or.replace.all youe wheel studs. Exactly happened to me . on mobile report back tomorrow with more comments

Yep, did mine in September and they are covered in a nice coat of orange surface rust now. I wish I would have painted them before the install but oh well. I'll paint them one day but it's pretty far down my "need to do"list at this point. I'll take the performance of the rusty calipers over the old 4th gen calipers any day.

I was all excited to do the 5th gen caliper upgrade. I now see that it does not work on my sr5 with 16 in wheels? What are other options,if any?
Thanks for the help

17" wheels are your only option other than going with the same 4th gen calipers again. 5th gen calipers won't clear the wheel or will be dangerously close to it.

Take a look through the classifieds or Craigslist. I see people upgrading their wheels all the time. I've seen stock 17" toyota 4th gen wheels with decent half used tires for as low as $200 for a set of 4.

Good timing if you are planning on getting new tires anytime soon, just upgrade the rims. Don't forget the spare.

I've read some credible reports that claim that slotted and drilled rotors don't improve brake performance. The assertions that I read stated that the slots and drilling were to allow gases to escape from the pads as they heated up.

However, modern high performance pads (such as akebono ceramic brake pads) have newer technologies that don't give off much gas. Thus, heat dissipation becomes a major concern in brake performance, and more rotor surface area in contact with the pads and more mass of the rotor allows for better, faster heat transfer, and improved cooling.

Slotted rotors can have some advantages, but they are not major and they tend to wear brake pads faster.

See this thread for some opinions on the subject...

The logic makes sense to me.

Just an FYI.

-Phil

Well this is finally done! Couple words of wisdom:

I went with the G4 Caliper Paint system to try and apply some rust deterrence before install. Easy system and there's a LOT more paint there. I got 3 light coats on all 4 of the new calipers and there was several ounces of product remaining.

Make damn damn damn sure the parking brakes are FULLY released before attempting to remove the rear rotors. My right rear was not and I bent the shoe retaining spring pin (picture below) and make for one hell of a troubleshooting episode.

My old rotors popped off with ease but I was prepared with several different devices to get them off. Surprised with how easy they came off.

I went with the Centric products already listed in this thread. 5th Gen Calipers and Rotors all the way around. Found a deal on Hawk LTS pads on Amazon and pulled the trigger.

The braking action is superior. Now. . if that's because of the bigger calipers/rotors or aftermarket pads? Who knows. But I am confident I will enjoy stopping my 6500lb boat much more than previous years.

Should have been an easy 4 hour job. Turned into a few days with that damn parking brake. What a retarded design. I nearly just removed the whole thing. Finally got it working with the new hardware.

Attached Images

           

thanks for the pics and cautionary note

I will 2nd the crappy design parking brakes. Hate them and actually never use them.

Well the clicking returned from the rears. . but only in reverse. I am taking it in to my local shop tomorrow to help diagnose. I STILL think it's coming from the parking brake assembly. . . but sure hope there isn't something wrong with the hub flange.

when the weather gets warmer here I think Ill do proper video on how to do it.
it took me 3-4 weekends to figure it out. I left my car on jacks for 4 weekends. when i finally got it right. where it held, on both sides, I was putting back together and my lug nut snaped for the 2nd time. I wanted smash the brakes to pieces. I had to engage the parking brake when at 5mph a few times. It clicked and everything snapped into place and no more touching noise. (I assumed it seated itself correctly)

Once I got it right it, it held in drive reverse on flat surface, and in nutrual on a steep incline.

I gave up on taking the car apart again. I found out it was the lug nut that was causing the stud to brake. anyway, i had mechanic upgrade to 5th gen calipers and redo all the studs. I bought a new parking brake (Cheapo one)

anyway when he did, it does not hold in reverse at all. So i know the trailing shoe is not releasing properly. granted it could crappy rebestos brakes.

in any case in the spring when i go in there and reset the parking brake I think I should do a proper video.

also do yourself a favor and get new hardware kit. the one I got from autozone was good enough for me. You can test it to make sure both sides engage (use it to replace the springs only!, keep the rest of it OE)

I've been buying new calipers, rotors, pads, and ss lines for the past 2 months - I think I am almost done!

I bought the reman centric calipers, new centric rotors, and oem toyota pads - all for the 5th gen.

I've seen a few people talk about hardware kits - what are included in them? My pads only came with the pads and that's it. I still need shims? Anything else?

Also - should I paint the calipers? I bought the g2 caliper kit from amazon to try but these look like they're already painted?

Brakes

which centric kit did you buy? 142 series = new pistons and painted loaded with crapy brake pads as well, ignore those.

you should just need the shims with the pads. it comes with new hardware. I'd also get copper anti seize to put anywhere the caliper meets the pads.

The hardest thing about this job is the parking brake. Probably needs adjusting if you haven't touched it in a while. Once you are done it should hold in neutral if you on a steep hill facing both ways. if only holds one way, chances are you need to change out the top 2 springs

This may be a dumb question.. But do you need 2 rear caliper brake hoses? Just want to double check. 2 axle hoses?

Yes you need 2. Each wheel can be controlled individually so there is a line from the master cylinder to each wheel.

If you didn't get the 142.xxxx calipers (which are prepainted), then you should definitely paint them.

I just finished painting my calipers using the G2 paint system.

I also ordered stainless steel speed bleeders for when i reinstall the brakes.

I tried the regular ones that are made of brass, but i broke them all off... They were hard to screw in, and I couldn't tell when they were seated. I hope the stainless ones perform better. I'll also be very careful not to over tighten them.

Photos of paint job are here.

Now i have to let em dry and wait for my speed bleeders to arrive.

Here are the speed bleeder part numbers I ordered. I'm getting the stainless steel because i broke off all of the brass ones i had previously ordered.

www.speedbleeder.com

Order Contents. -- these are supposed to fit the 4Runner 4th and 5th gen calipers.

DESCPRICEQTYEXT

Sku: SB1010SS
SB1010-SS Speed Bleederx $15.002= $30.00

Sku: SB7100SS
SB7100-SS Speed Bleederx $152= $30.00

Sku: DUSTCAP
Extra Dust Capx $0.102= $0.20
Subtotal:$60.20
Sales Tax:$0.00
USPS Priority Shipping $9.80
Order Totals:$70.00