Don't bother. You will find a 12-pin relay and no way to swap it for an aftermarket model. The only options you have are:
1) use regular blinker bulbs, and LEDS for everything else in the truck
2) use resistors
3) Crack open the factory 12-pin relay and monkey with the metal bar in there to make it thin enough to account for the lower draw from the LED bulbs

I chose 1. All bulbs in truck are now LEDs except the blinkers. Big whoop. Everything else looks cool, and the difference in the blinkers is minimal anyway.

Thanks for this thread (and the one on Tacoma World). It helped me through the effort of pulling the flasher box out, removing the metal bar/loop from the circuit board, adding a bunch of resistors in parallel in its place, having the blinkers sort of work (i.e. one side only), then putting everything back the way it was with the metal loop/bar and using regular bulbs.

The problem I'm having is that now the front passenger, 2nd passenger and rear windows dont work. And the front left bulb remains on even if the car is off. The driver window does work though.

It could have something to do with these two cables that are not plugged in anywhere. After I put the fuse box back in I couldn't see anywhere to plug these.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix or where these cables go?

The cable with the grey connector is a lot longer than the other.

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I have my 2003 flasher out/apart. its 12 pin, and thats because I have daytime running lights (DTRL) with my 03 Limited 4R. HTH

I just ordered the SMD resistor to replace the 201 on the board. Hope to complete over Thanksgiving holiday. Part I ordered is

P1.8KWCT-ND from Digi-Key ($0.030 each)

digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/ERJ-12ZYJ182U/P1.8KWCT-ND/249717

I installed LEDs in my DTRL/front turn signal lights on my 03 4R, then discovered hyper flashing turn signals. So I replaced 201 with 182 resistor at R4 in the relay, as the first post in this thread was suggested by utmba95. Turn signals went from hyper flash to erratic, slightly less hyper flash. For me the mod at the top of this thread did not work. I think I will be going back to conventional bulbs.

Some LED replacement bulbs may work erratically if run constantly on like as a DRL.

I have Philips Xtreme Ultinon 7440 amber bulbs, still one of the best designed LED bulbs (outperforms even Philips' second generation Xtreme Ultinons). They were designed to be used only as turn signals; after 5 minutes of constant-on run time they start blinking as a form of thermal protection.

Sorry I'm a little late to the party on this... No need to open the relay to modify it for led, if you are content in disabling DRL. Simply unplug the relay and bend the pin feeding the DRL slightly so it won't line up with the socket and reinstall. (I think it was pin 12. I think if you were looking at the pins, it was the pin in the lower left corner. Did it in a hurry, wasn't hard to track down, don't remember off the top of my head, so don't quote me on pin location.)

Now that DRL is disabled, you can simply purchase and install some canbus style anti-hyperflash led bulbs from your internet vendor of choice and install. Problem solved. And you can put similar anti-hyperflash lamps for the rear turn signals as well with no adverse affect.

Now, I understand that in some states DRL is required, you could do the fog light mod posted elsewhere in this forum, or wire in a different light to an ignition source for DRL if it's a requirement. (Raptor lights, anyone?) Hope that helps a little for the guys/gals that don't want to hack a relay or aren't any good with a soldering iron/Dremel tool.

IMHO, making an otherwise momentary lamp(turn signal) a DRL is an incredibly POOR DESIGN (what were you thinking, Toyota?) I got tired of having to smash a burnt bulb in order to remove it from my headlight assembly because it got so hot the socket would melt. Had enough of that, I elected to do what I just described above. Been flawless ever since, and now I don't have to worry about burning out the LED or cooking a resistor trying to drive a momentary lamp full time. Cheers!

Excellent writeup on bypassing and/or making DRLs switchable Toyota 4Runner DRL Mod

I'm not a fan of the turn signal DRLs either. If anyone wants to wire something else besides turn signals as DRLs use that bypassed wire mentioned in that writeup to trigger a Bosch/Tyco type relay and power the new lights via that relay. Someone did what I suggested and powered the halos on his projector retrofit as DRLs.

That's the link I followed. Thanks for the clarification

Ed C are you saying if the DRLs are LED? I think mine already were, and I added LED turn signals. my DRLs never have had issues, just the turn signals since I converted to LED.
I am thinking of using a potentiometer to try and determine the best resistance... my son the electrical engineer wonders if changing the resistance using LED messess up the circuitry impedance, resulting in the erratic flash I saw... in other words maybe I need to add an inductor plus change the resistor.

I saw erratic behavior when the resistance was in certain ranges. Using a potentiometer is your best bet. As a electrical engineer, I'm sure it's nothing to do with impedance.

You may be confusing parking lights with the DRLs. All 4th gens use the T10 bulbs as parking bulbs in the headlight, but the 06+ moved the turn signals/DRLs into the headlights. Either way, getting rid of the DRL functionality allows LED turn signals to operate normally.

I'm confused by his post LOL.

I said some replacement LEDs will work erratically. They're usually the ones that are very bright, very bright because the bulbs are driven harder than some of the dimmer LEDs, driven harder = more heat, heat = bad for LEDs.