Yes I already tried the search function, the only "advice" i found on the subject was along the lines of "they're a huge pain in the ass"......

The manifold tick is getting increasingly annoying, and with my '05 v8 just hitting 65k I figured the $800~ for a set of DT headers + nuts bolts and gaskets is worth it if I can pull off the installation.

Asking if anyone here has personally installed new headers on their V8, either DT or Toyota replacements.

Besides soaking nuts/bolts in PB for days in advance I couldn't find too much advice on ways to make the install any easier.

I am also planning to upgrade my UCA's this year, and figure it may be best to do both at the same time. Having the UCA's off would give some additional access into the engine bay by the manifolds.

On a 1-10 scale I'd give myself a 5~ in mechanical competency... did full suspension by myself, obviously all basic maintenance stuff, and headers on my last 2 cars, a 350z and Altima V6, (very different I know, and both were rust free)

I welcome and appreciate any advice, Thanks

I did it by myself and I'm not really mechanical inclined.
job is not complicated it just hard to get thru such a small fender area to the manifold studs and nuts . They are full of rust as well. Another pair of hands would be really useful for you. I was working with my father in law - in general I was under the car trying to get a socket on the nuts and he was just breaking them lose from the engine bay. We got a special ratchet with bent handle and couple extensions. Also I had to cut the exhuast manifold from the exhuast pipe because studs on the conector were rusted.

If it's really rusted in there, I'd go ahead and order a bunch of exhaust studs and all new nuts before you start the job. Figure on some nuts being rusted to the studs, and some studs snapping. Plus some will probably be rusty enough to justify replacing before putting new headers on.

I also recommend really high temp nickel antisieze on all the nuts. Not a ton, just a nice even coating. It'll smoke a bit (that's normal), but after that, it'll leave behind some nickel particles that will prevent corrosion and let you undo them later on.

Thanks for the input, using the parts list here
Part List/Work Order for V8 Exhaust Manifolds - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
everything came to about $160 shipped for all new studs nuts and gaskets, obviously new heat shields are not needed. Figure it's best to go into the job assuming everything will go wrong as far as broken studs etc

It's the snapping off bolts part that scares me. The though of trying to get a broken stud out of my aluminum head is just to much, I'm going to pay someone to do it so if they do break, it's on them to fix it!

Also my biggest concern. Snapping one but being left with some length still on the stud I could (I think) handle with a stud puller/extractor but I'm terrified of snapping one flush with the engine.

Ya there's no room to get a drill in there. You'd have to pull the head in sure. Scares the crap out of me!

I'm thinking about the DT headers as well and was curious if their manifold mating surface stays leak free for years to come. Did DT make any improvements in this area from the previous headers?

http://www.lceperformance.com/Doug-T...-p/1046020.htm
p/n 1046020

@alia176 if you get those and it works please le me know!

I'm still in the R&D phase currently. I'm sure the fitting will be a PITA and I can deal with that when the time comes.

I have the power to resurrect old threads, call me Jesus.

Sooo, 5 years later, Has anyone on here actually installed new V8 headers themselves?

I'm taking pictures while I go but it would sure be nice to have some reassurance that I'm not just digging myself in deeper and deeper.

I put DT Longtubes on a few weeks back. It took all weekend. I went with Stage 8 Locking fasteners, which are great, but if you thought putting nuts on in those small spaces was hard, try putting on the tabs and then a c clip in the same area. And with that said, I have an exhaust leak. I'm going to find a smoke machine and try to tighten down where it's leaking before I remove the headers completely to regasket.

Sea Foam deep creep several times before I started, worked well for me. Not much corrosion on mine though. I used Titanium hardware and they seem to be holding pretty well, about 2k miles after install.
Here is a few pics I took and maybe some ideas that will help:

Pearl's mod/build LT rear/TC Dual Front/Custom Baja Bumper/Doug Thorley Headers

There may be a few more tips in this thread. I linked the page where my posts are located, but there are other people who posted some info in other parts of the thread. Good Luck!!

Group buy for Doug Thorley PREMIUM VERSION headers, need 20 people!

Nice!!! Thanks guys.
Sadly doing dorman replacements. I hate the leak and I'm moving the California in a month where that leak is literally illegal. So I need cats and don't have the leisure of time to figure out a cost effective way of welding on cats. If only my registration didn't expire soon.

I assume lifting/tilting the engine makes the job doable. You guys have any resources for doing that? what else needs to be loosened/unbolted besides the engine mounts.

I wish my t4r was as rust free as yours. I've been soaking stuff in PB and will have my brother continue while I go visit my girlfriends family for the next 5 days.

The air box and intake tube need to be pulled out to lift the engine without restrictions. I raised mine up until the fan was bending the shroud a little bit.
A 2x4 about 16" long and a good floor jack is needed to do the lifting. One side at a time.

Some of the nuts wouldn't break loose for some people. All mine did except for one, and luckily the stud broke loose in the head and it came right out. Also if you do get some of the nuts to break loose, the OEM studs are a Torx socket but I can't remember what size. I think it's in the back pages of the other thread I linked. I used a 7mm 6 point and pounded it on the end of each stud with a side ways hammer, and they all broke free.

I think being in CT corrosion, you could heat each stud area up with a small torch, let it cool down for a few minutes, and hit it again with the penetrating oil. That way as it cools down it might pull the oil in deeper to threads. Do that the day before and it might help. You may need to heat them up again on removal day. Get your self several extensions, a good breaker bar, and some swivels to get good angles on each nut. Take your time and get in the right position to apply smooth even torque to each one. A stool helped me when doing that, so my weight didn't shift or lose my balance. Any sudden jerky movement can spell disaster. Let us know how it went and share any tips you may have figured out. Good Luck!!