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Old 05-30-2020, 12:39 PM #16
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I did mine with 2 friends, one of them is a mechanic but he only likes to help when we get stuck. We also undid and raised the transmission along with the engine. I referenced @4RunnerAquasport posts on the big Doug Thorley thread to help us. The passenger side was MUCH easier than the drivers side. I only shot the studs a couple of times with penetrating oil beforehand, and even then I couldn't reach a few of them, but didn't have any issues removing them. It is very tight in there.
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Old 05-30-2020, 01:02 PM #17
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@Caldizzle glad it helped you out! The combination of extensions and swivels I had to use were crazy on some of them. One of the front driver side nuts I had to go from the bottom and couldn't believe it popped loose, let alone even getting the socket to seat on it properly. I say again I got lucky with minimal corrosion. I think if people take the fan shroud off and loosen the trans like you did, you can get more lift on the engine and it might be more accessible on that drivers side.
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Old 06-04-2020, 12:20 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RunnerAquasport View Post
The air box and intake tube need to be pulled out to lift the engine without restrictions. I raised mine up until the fan was bending the shroud a little bit.

Let us know how it went and share any tips you may have figured out. Good Luck!!

Nice thanks. I'm going to do a write up on this. the v8 4runners need to live on an not die due to lack of information.

I'm very mechanically inclined. But the v8 4th gens are literally a black hole of internet support from what I have found. Worse then fight club. 1st rule of fight club(manifold replacement), don't talk about fight club(manifold replacement).
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Old 06-04-2020, 02:07 PM #19
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I did mine with 2 friends, one of them is a mechanic but he only likes to help when we get stuck.
I didn't even see your post, definite confidence booster seeing some pictures.

I'm currently trying to cut off my motor mount bolts with a dremel. I do not understand why they use those bolts with the tab on them. If i could loosen from the bottom I would have been able to get them off. But they have to be loosened from the top with zero space.

my whole truck is rust scale. nothing structurally wrong, still a lot of metal left.

I cannot find any threads on motor mount replacement, you guys know of any?
I might as well replace them. I know ill end up nicking them while cutting.
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Old 06-04-2020, 03:11 PM #20
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Nice thanks. I'm going to do a write up on this. the v8 4runners need to live on an not die due to lack of information.

I'm very mechanically inclined. But the v8 4th gens are literally a black hole of internet support from what I have found. Worse then fight club. 1st rule of fight club(manifold replacement), don't talk about fight club(manifold replacement).
Yea, no one has really posted up much about these things except for the Air Injection Pump mods and the 4Lo servos seizing up, maybe a couple timing belt threads. The 2UZ seems to be a mystery to a lot of people and like I've mentioned before, the majority of owners are soccer moms and retirees completely uninterested in mods or performance. I guess the fact that these run pretty well for over 200k miles contributes to the black hole as well. I like the fight club reference though lol. I bet there are shit ton still out there with cracked manifolds too.
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Old 06-04-2020, 03:14 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuffinit View Post
I didn't even see your post, definite confidence booster seeing some pictures.

I'm currently trying to cut off my motor mount bolts with a dremel. I do not understand why they use those bolts with the tab on them. If i could loosen from the bottom I would have been able to get them off. But they have to be loosened from the top with zero space.

my whole truck is rust scale. nothing structurally wrong, still a lot of metal left.

I cannot find any threads on motor mount replacement, you guys know of any?
I might as well replace them. I know ill end up nicking them while cutting.
I wonder if any years of the Tundra have a similar mount you could scrounge from a pick and pull. The 4runners are hard to come by in the Florida salvage yards.
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Old 06-06-2020, 12:09 PM #22
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I'm going to end up moving this to its own thread.

I've got the engine mounts loosened up. From the engine side not the frame side. I was in the process of cutting one of the bolts from the frame side, so i will be removing and replacing at lease one of the mounts or that 1 bolt. We will see. The engine gets jacked up on 1 side of the oil pan and it gives you slightly better angles and a little more space.

14mm bolts. 12mm bolts for the transmission/tcase cross member mount.
You need a wobble or ujoint ratchet end and a good amount of extension.
On the drivers side there are 12mm and 10mm bolts on a small easy to access heat shield and wire loom.

I have all of the manifold studs loose/off the drivers side. Probably a straight 50/50 split between the nut coming off and the whole stud coming out. I bought all new studs already anyway.
14mm again
You need a long handled breaker bar and ratchet that has a flex head. A 1/2" flex head could pull double duty.
I used a 1/2" 14mm deep socket and a 3/8th drive deep. Smaller tools fit more places.

I have the down pipe bolts off as well, they are also studs.
14mm deep socket + extension.
I've been using the harbor freight corded impact whenever possible, this was a time it was easy to use and its nice when 1 thing goes easy.

Why does everything use studs! (Now, I know why. But they sure are way worse when preforming maintenance.)

My next pita is the crossover tube bolts...sorry studs. They certainly won't be coming out easy. At least access isn't a huge issue for these. But come on... a 10mm nut on a stud on the firewall side That's constantly heat cycling? They could have done better here. Everything else sucked but there was a method to fix the access issues.
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Old 06-06-2020, 04:15 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuffinit View Post
I'm going to end up moving this to its own thread.

I've got the engine mounts loosened up. From the engine side not the frame side. I was in the process of cutting one of the bolts from the frame side, so i will be removing and replacing at lease one of the mounts or that 1 bolt. We will see. The engine gets jacked up on 1 side of the oil pan and it gives you slightly better angles and a little more space.

14mm bolts. 12mm bolts for the transmission/tcase cross member mount.
You need a wobble or ujoint ratchet end and a good amount of extension.
On the drivers side there are 12mm and 10mm bolts on a small easy to access heat shield and wire loom.

I have all of the manifold studs loose/off the drivers side. Probably a straight 50/50 split between the nut coming off and the whole stud coming out. I bought all new studs already anyway.
14mm again
You need a long handled breaker bar and ratchet that has a flex head. A 1/2" flex head could pull double duty.
I used a 1/2" 14mm deep socket and a 3/8th drive deep. Smaller tools fit more places.

I have the down pipe bolts off as well, they are also studs.
14mm deep socket + extension.
I've been using the harbor freight corded impact whenever possible, this was a time it was easy to use and its nice when 1 thing goes easy.

Why does everything use studs! (Now, I know why. But they sure are way worse when preforming maintenance.)

My next pita is the crossover tube bolts...sorry studs. They certainly won't be coming out easy. At least access isn't a huge issue for these. But come on... a 10mm nut on a stud on the firewall side That's constantly heat cycling? They could have done better here. Everything else sucked but there was a method to fix the access issues.
Thanks in advance! I'm going to install LT headers whenever they decide to ship! I'll make sure to take lots of pictures. Maybe we can create header install tutorial.
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:05 PM #24
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Thanks in advance! I'm going to install LT headers whenever they decide to ship! I'll make sure to take lots of pictures. Maybe we can create header install tutorial.
I've got some photos and theyll be posted.
And yes. WE will fix the problem of there being no info on 4th gens.

Here's my tip for the before mentioned problem with the studs on the cross over tubes. They just break off. perfect! problem solved!

I've got them both out. Thanks to The north EAst. I'm scraping scale and saving my chassis. I've used por15 in the past. but I don't have enough left so I think ill be using chassis saver, as its one some store shelves.

Honestly, I think my biggest problem so far has been, since not many people talk about it, not knowing to unbolt the engine mounts from the engine not the frame. This is so opposite from every car i have every worked on (mostly jeeps) but these bolts are, more or less, accessible from the bottom without much impediment.

I should have just spend the money months ago, eliminating a time constraint, and gone with some shorties and figured out the welding. I've got a nice fawking welder (esab rebel) I could have easily done the mock up and tacking myself and brought it to a welder.
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Old 06-08-2020, 09:17 PM #25
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Here's a little photo journey.
An important note of my install is that I'm also doing a front suspension overall so the Lower control arm is off. Likely making it a little easier.

Looking up from under the drivers side cv axle. you can see were the engine mount attaches. Wait, no , you can see where the wire loom and small heat shield attach on top of where the engine mount mounts.


Here's that same heat shield from the side view just above the frame.


Remove them (12mm)


Wire loom close up. Remove bolt to get some wiggle room for the harness.


That will then uncover 2 engine mount bolts. With almost direct access up from the bottom. The front 2 bolts are slightly tougher to reach. I have a picture of those. You will notice the strut tower on the right of the picture. The bolts have been removed, so you are looking at those 2 empty holes. the engine is also lifted in the picture, so there are 2 sets of holes you will see.


The passenger side is easier. nothing really in the way. I didn't get a picture.
You then can tilt the engine. The only think I disconnected up top is the intake from the filter box. lift until the fan just touches the shroud.


To remove the manifolds you will do a lot of this...
I have a 14mm deep or a regular socket on a ujoint swivel. extensions as needed. go up and in from anywhere possible.
First though, the heat shields use 10mm bolts. Those come off first, but the engine does need to be tilted to make this easy.





Heres a picture of me taking out one the studs before the engine was tilted. I was able to get 4 out before. see socket on bolt.








So, with tilting the engine you should be able to get them all out. A tilted head ratchet was deemed necessary so I bought one.

The studs that went to the emissions tube things just broke off for me.
The downpipe also uses 14mm studs, I zipped them off with the impact.

While I have your attention. heres my frame after scraping, wire wheeling, degreasing and rust treated. Then covered with some brush on rustoleum, none of my local city stores stock chassis saver or por15.





oh, back to what matters.

Here are the manifold cracks. Both on the front most cylinders.


Last edited by stuffinit; 06-08-2020 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 06-09-2020, 05:05 AM #26
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@stuffinit excellent work sir!! I don't think a new member has ever contributed more in one post in the history of this forum. This work is extremely difficult, and to take pictures that are well thought out is a real PIA. Feel free to grab any of my pics to help with your instruction. I don't think anyone has ever even seen the offending cracks on the OEM manifolds before. Most people are so disgusted by the time they pull em off, they get tossed in a corner and forgotten.
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Old 06-09-2020, 07:14 AM #27
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@stuffinit excellent work sir!! I don't think a new member has ever contributed more in one post in the history of this forum.
Thanks man


Here's the next issue.
What size studs go into the Air Switching system
They use the same studs all over, does this mean its just a standard stud size.
They are seen on in the service manual with that tag of "10 (102, 7)"
I don't see a parts page in the service manual but I'm looking more now.

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Old 06-09-2020, 07:45 AM #28
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They couldn't have been more helpful and listed the stud's actual size..

Here is the parts diagram from a toyota parts store.
Its shown as "9012606029" but that is unavailable and it lists it is replaceable with "90126A0014" the "BOLT, STUD(FOR OIL STRAINER)"
I still don't know the size. I'm going to bring the manifold to the parts store and just size one up I guess. (I don't like bringing parts into my parts store that I didnt but from the parts store, they know me too well and will know they didn't get me that part. I've cheated on them....)

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Old 06-09-2020, 08:44 AM #29
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No technical help with your latest issue because my 03' doesn't have it. Does CT have a visual emission inspection?
Edit: Never mind, I just saw your post about moving to CA. I would think the bypass has been done out there though. I don't envy your situation, Good Luck.
The bypass might work but I know squat about this subject.
You may still need the studs to put it back in place though. Slyfox may be able to give you stud info.

Secondary air injection pump nightmare: 2005 4 Runner V8

Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important!

Slyfox75 AIP SAIS Bypass Toyota / Lexus | eBay

These guys have a kit as well.

Gen-I Bypass Kits - Secondary Air Injection System
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Old 06-09-2020, 09:31 AM #30
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No technical help with your latest issue because my 03' doesn't have it. Does CT have a visual emission inspection?
Edit: Never mind, I just saw your post about moving to CA. I would think the bypass has been done out there though. I don't envy your situation, Good Luck.
I will probably go the block out route in the future If i have problems with the system, which seem inevitable.

Pro tip. Check the hardwear kit that comes with your parts before worrying about having the right parts.
this Air switching valve Studs came with the manifolds. As did the down pipe studs.
Here's the info though. M6- 1.0 stud measures just over an inch long.

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