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Old 08-10-2015, 10:29 AM #16
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet01 View Post
That looks incredible! Thinking of doing this as well as adding a bulb to the rear bumper reflectors. May bite the bullet and install the retrofit kit from the retrofit source to run hid's and so I can use the projectors for the high and low beam function. Thanks for the awesome write up!
Glad you liked it. You should totally do it! It is very easy and I hope this guide makes it even easier!

I thought about doing a retrofit kit but honestly, I was already a little nervous about taking this project on to begin with, so I went with normal LED bulbs. I still think they look sick though

A retrofit is probably going to be a task I undertake in the future, but for now, I am VERY happy with the way these turned out
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Old 08-10-2015, 12:34 PM #17
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Originally Posted by Krayziekid View Post
Yes I did. I bought the 2006 Taillight assemblies from RockAuto under the 2006 section. The 2006 taillight swap is SO easy. I highly recommend it because it is easy, looks fantastic, and makes early 4th gens just a bit more modern.

There are two bolts that hold on the rear tail lights. That's it. You need to pop the little side cover off in the trunk, pull all of the bulbs/sockets out, and then undo the bolts. Use a 10mm socket wrench I believe. Once you get the bolts off, it definitely takes some wiggling to get it out, but take your time and you'll get it. If I remember correctly, you reuse the sockets and nuts from your old taillights. It really is easy and hard to mess up.

Important note. The 2006 taillights have the brake lights built in, so you just need a new bulb for the turn signal (not sure what number it is but easy to find out) and a new reverse bulb (194). Sure, you could reuse your old bulbs since they should be the same, but what's the fun in that?

Edit: Also, when you pull your old taillights off, I highly recommend taking a few paper towels and windex to clean the area under it off. There is bound to be dirt and crap in there, so you might as well clean it while it's open.

Aces great job. thanks for your walkthrough
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Old 08-10-2015, 09:13 PM #18
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Update: So I did a true test drive at night today and I gotta say, the headlights look fantastic. The LED bulbs look great and throw plenty of light for my uses. I just have to find the time and place to aim the low beams.

I have discovered a small "problem" however and I am wondering if anyone has any ideas or advice. So my bumper and headlight DRLs/Turn signals work together as they are wired together. If I turn them on or use them while standing still, they are fine. BUT, if I use them to actually complete a turn, they won't come back on unless I flick the turn signal again. Sorry if that isn't clear.

Ex: I am at a stop light and I am turning left. I have my left blinker on and everything works. It turns green. I complete the turn and the blinker returns to the neutral location. About 50% of the time, the DRLs (top and bottom of the left side) will not come back on. But if I flick the turn signal again really quick, they flash and stay on like usual.

It is the strangest thing. I have no idea why it is happening. I am going to check to make sure all of the bulbs are seated correctly and stuff. Any wiring experts have any ideas? Could it be because of the shared ground on the parking lights and DRLs? Other than that, I can't think of what else it could be. Thanks!
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:03 PM #19
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Major important update

I have a HUGE update for everyone about the 03->06 headlight swap. First off, I ended up returning my RockAuto TYC headlights, cause they both had huge defects and honestly, the quality was pretty shit in my mind. Order some genuine OEM lights from Camelback Toyota. Fast shipping and already have them installed. Such a better fit. I highly recommend shelling out the dough unless you guys want to do a true HID retrofit. The sealing was shitty on TYC, which is good if you want to Blackout or Retrofit and then reseal, but not great with the standard sealing. Just something for everyone to think about.

Now on to the HUGE update, and I am being serious.

So the original way I wired it was the only way I really saw how to wire it, and that is still (in my mind) the correct way to wire it. Unfortunately, the DRL flasher is only meant to handle 4 bulbs total (2 front, 2 back), @ 27 Watts each. This means that using the stock 03 DRLs, with the newly added 06 DRLs (assuming you use a standard bulb) is WAYYYYYYY over the Watt allowance. This causes the DRLs to turn off about every 3-4 minutes, cause the flasher unit will automatically cut power to prevent overheating and overvolting.

This means that if you do this mod, it is almost a requirement to use LED bulbs, as most of them have lower wattage than standard bulbs.

As most of you know, most LED bulbs will hyperflash if you just put them in without a resistor. That is what happens in my standard 03 DRLs/Turn signal when I just put the bulbs in. They seemed to not overload the DRL flasher, which is what was expected, but I do not want hyperflash. So my next thought was, what happens when the 03s are filled with LEDs and the new 06s are filled with a standard 11W bulb. Well, I put them in, and ran them for at least 15 minutes, but I think closer to 20. They did not go out AND they did not hyperflash. This means that the current draw is likely the problem,. Unfortunately I am extremely busy over the next week, so I won't be able to test my next theory, but I am pretty sure that having two LEDs per side (4 LEDs in the front total) will work. They should draw enough current together to not hyperflash since they are wired together, but it should be below the wattage allowance in the flasher.

I know @gaterose was having a problem similar to this, but there was never really a clear answer to this. He seemed to accidentally solve it by replacing all of them with LEDs. I think this should work, but I just want everyone to know that this is JUST A THEORY. It seems like it will work, but until I can get everything I need to test it and confirm, I will leave that warning. Hope this helps everyone.
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Old 08-25-2015, 07:42 PM #20
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8/25/15 Update

So I just tested my theory and it seems I am wrong. Dual LED bulbs (4 in total in the front) still don't pull enough in order to not hyperflash. Seems a bit odd. I thought it would work.

I tested with some TRS 4157 LED bulbs for the bottom, and then just some autozone 1156 LED bulbs up top. It will still work with one normal filament bulb, and one LED bulb, but the way they flash looks funky, as the LED is on/off, and the filament sorta fades in and out, making it look strange. Since there is a 27w cap for each side, I think I'm just going to use normal filament bulbs for both and stay under that 27w max.

It's a shame the dual LEDs didn't work. Would have really liked it to. That being said, are there any other LEDs that I should look in to that may put out more light/draw more power? I tried to figure out how much wattage the TRS bulbs draw, but couldn't. Would dual TRS or VLED bulbs make a difference?
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:00 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krayziekid View Post
So I just tested my theory and it seems I am wrong. Dual LED bulbs (4 in total in the front) still don't pull enough in order to not hyperflash. Seems a bit odd. I thought it would work.

I tested with some TRS 4157 LED bulbs for the bottom, and then just some autozone 1156 LED bulbs up top. It will still work with one normal filament bulb, and one LED bulb, but the way they flash looks funky, as the LED is on/off, and the filament sorta fades in and out, making it look strange. Since there is a 27w cap for each side, I think I'm just going to use normal filament bulbs for both and stay under that 27w max.

It's a shame the dual LEDs didn't work. Would have really liked it to. That being said, are there any other LEDs that I should look in to that may put out more light/draw more power? I tried to figure out how much wattage the TRS bulbs draw, but couldn't. Would dual TRS or VLED bulbs make a difference?
you could always put a load resistor inline on both sides. just look for a wattage resistor that will take up the "slack" in current draw so they will work. its really not that hard of a thing to do and write ups are everywhere on doing them. i think the common one is 20W 5ohm but im not sure you will probably need less since you are driving 2leds per side in front
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:08 PM #22
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you could always put a load resistor inline on both sides. just look for a wattage resistor that will take up the "slack" in current draw so they will work. its really not that hard of a thing to do and write ups are everywhere on doing them. i think the common one is 20W 5ohm but im not sure you will probably need less since you are driving 2leds per side in front
Yea, the dual fronts on either side are what is really throwing me off. I always try to avoid resistors cause honestly, I'm just not a fan. Just another thing to go wrong. I am going to look around at high wattage LEDs (if those exist lol) and if not, just go back to regular filament bulbs that fit the wattage requirements. They don't need to shine like the sun, cause honestly, they are just turn signals lol.

And yea, I think 20W might be too much on a resistor, especially without knowing the wattage of the LEDs (which seems to be impossible to find). I'm not sure what the requirement is to not hyperflash (I am guesstimating about 18w), but I know exceeding 27w will eventually shut down the relay. I think I'm just gonna go with 2 11w filament bulbs or something and call it a day. Thanks for your insight!
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Old 10-06-2015, 06:03 PM #23
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Did you ever get this issue resolved?
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:24 PM #24
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im curious as well, doing the swap hopefully this weekend.
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:02 PM #25
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Did you ever get this issue resolved?
No unfortunately I didn't. I did the math out and stuff and a resistor will work, but I just haven't found the time to wire one in and swap over to some quality LEDs. For now I have just been using some high output Sylvania bulbs in the 06 housings and leaving my 03 housings empty. I like the look of the bulbs up in the 06 housing better.
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:04 PM #26
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im curious as well, doing the swap hopefully this weekend.
Sorry, but I didn't resolve it yet. Definitely planning on trying some options in the near future, but I have just been so swamped with work recently that I haven't found any free time. I will definitely update the post when I figure it out.

Good luck with the swap though! It is really straightforward if you take your time and follow the guide. Post here or PM me if you have any problems and I will gladly try and help!
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Old 10-07-2015, 04:45 PM #27
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Sorry, but I didn't resolve it yet. Definitely planning on trying some options in the near future, but I have just been so swamped with work recently that I haven't found any free time. I will definitely update the post when I figure it out.

Good luck with the swap though! It is really straightforward if you take your time and follow the guide. Post here or PM me if you have any problems and I will gladly try and help!
Im slowly getting all my parts in, And I was thinking about throwing a TRS HID kit in the low beam projectors. I noticed that you used their LEDs for your low beam. Im liking that idea, no need for a harness, and I think I would need to custom make a kit, 9006 stock harness and H11 bulbs.

So how do you like the LED H11 bulbs?


Also, Im thinking about running the stock bulbs in the bumper and running 1156 LEDs in the housing. Im not sure about how many watts the LEDs draw but maybe using that option it wont hyperflash, or overheat.

what do you think?
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Old 10-07-2015, 05:26 PM #28
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Originally Posted by rick1987 View Post
Im slowly getting all my parts in, And I was thinking about throwing a TRS HID kit in the low beam projectors. I noticed that you used their LEDs for your low beam. Im liking that idea, no need for a harness, and I think I would need to custom make a kit, 9006 stock harness and H11 bulbs.

So how do you like the LED H11 bulbs?


Also, Im thinking about running the stock bulbs in the bumper and running 1156 LEDs in the housing. Im not sure about how many watts the LEDs draw but maybe using that option it wont hyperflash, or overheat.

what do you think?
I am definitely liking the TRS LED bulbs in the low beams. They aren't supposed to be used in low beam reflector housings cause they throw light everywhere, but they seem to work really well in the projector housings. Sure, the cutoff isn't as sharp as an HID kit, but then again, you aren't having to pay the extra money or worry about harnesses and other wiring. Overall, I am very pleased for the money.

As for converting from 9006 to H11, you can buy premade adapters on ebay or amazon for cheap. I did that and it was very easy and works well.

Your turn signal solution should work. When I ran a stock bulb with an LED, it seemed to stay on without overdrawing on the current, and it did not hyperflash. The only problem was the way it looked. The LED only has two "lighting modes"; on and off. It doesn't fade in and out. Because of that, the LED will go on/off while the stock bulb fades in and out like any other bulb. It looks odd because one appears like it is flashing faster, but it isn't. Looked too odd for me and I just went with one bulb for now until I find the time to play with it more.
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:15 PM #29
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I am definitely liking the TRS LED bulbs in the low beams. They aren't supposed to be used in low beam reflector housings cause they throw light everywhere, but they seem to work really well in the projector housings. Sure, the cutoff isn't as sharp as an HID kit, but then again, you aren't having to pay the extra money or worry about harnesses and other wiring. Overall, I am very pleased for the money.

As for converting from 9006 to H11, you can buy premade adapters on ebay or amazon for cheap. I did that and it was very easy and works well.

Your turn signal solution should work. When I ran a stock bulb with an LED, it seemed to stay on without overdrawing on the current, and it did not hyperflash. The only problem was the way it looked. The LED only has two "lighting modes"; on and off. It doesn't fade in and out. Because of that, the LED will go on/off while the stock bulb fades in and out like any other bulb. It looks odd because one appears like it is flashing faster, but it isn't. Looked too odd for me and I just went with one bulb for now until I find the time to play with it more.

Sweet! I just placed my order, Ill have to see how it looks with the bumper factory bulbs and the headlight turn signals LED. If it drives me nuts Ill order LEDs for the bumper and add the resistors.

I cant wait for everything to come in!
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:15 PM #30
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Sweet! I just placed my order, Ill have to see how it looks with the bumper factory bulbs and the headlight turn signals LED. If it drives me nuts Ill order LEDs for the bumper and add the resistors.

I cant wait for everything to come in!
Sweet! Post some pics when you're done! I'd love to see how it turns out. And again, feel free to post here if you have problems or questions.

I thought it would be fine, but after seeing it in action when my dad was driving my car a bit, I couldn't handle it. I thought the difference in blinking was really frustrating and off-putting. But you might like it better, so try it out. Good luck!
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