10-03-2015, 07:10 PM
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#1
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Broken Skid Plate Bolt
Well, here I am again with a broken bolt. I was installing an RCI skid plate on my 08 4Runner SR5, and I broke the front right skid plate bolt when I was taking off the OEM. Literally the first one... PB blaster and all...
My question is, what options do I have?... I'm guessing it's going to need to be drilled out, which is super super (SUPER) irritating. Other ideas? Would everyone recommend I bring it to a body shop and have them do it? I would consider myself a novice when it comes to drilling out bolts.
I hate broken bolts.
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10-03-2015, 07:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erkelbot
Well, here I am again with a broken bolt. I was installing an RCI skid plate on my 08 4Runner SR5, and I broke the front right skid plate bolt when I was taking off the OEM. Literally the first one... PB blaster and all...
My question is, what options do I have?... I'm guessing it's going to need to be drilled out, which is super super (SUPER) irritating. Other ideas? Would everyone recommend I bring it to a body shop and have them do it? I would consider myself a novice when it comes to drilling out bolts.
I hate broken bolts.
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Just drill it through and use a nut and bolt if you don't want to retap the hole. Or at least temporarily until you retap the hole.
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10-03-2015, 07:41 PM
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#3
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I found out I had a broken bolt the other day and went with the nut & bolt fix. Mine was on the front skid where it mounts to a crossmember, pretty hard spot to add a nut but doable. I now have a couple spare nuts inside the crossmember now. Oops!
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10-03-2015, 08:21 PM
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#4
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Thanks. I should add, it's not so much the broken bolt...it's the abandonment of the little project fir the night. That's the frustration. I'll get some nuts and bolts tomorrow and get the house in order... Bugger.
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10-03-2015, 09:40 PM
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#5
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Mine wasn't a broken bolt now that I think about it for a minute, mine was stripped threads. End result is the same.
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10-04-2015, 09:04 AM
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#6
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Drill, baby, drill! I'd recommend a cobalt bit. Try and drill right through the center. If you're good and can get all the way through, it helps a lot (and the OEM bolts will typically shatter in half and just kinda fall out at that point). Otherwise, stick a phillips head on the end after getting a ways down, push hard and run the drill slow in reverse.. If you're lucky, it'll back out with it.
Don't bother with Speed Outs or any other special broken bolt remover. They're a waste of money
I always run a tap through after a bolt breaks... better safe than sorry. And: if all else fails, drill the hole bigger and tap it. Ask me how I know: Thanks to some clowns removing my skid to change the oil (despite the quick release valve) and stripping the s#%$ out of it, I know have a 1/2" bolt on one of mine... talk about overkill!
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10-04-2015, 09:36 AM
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#7
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Thanks for the advice. I probably should've known not all drill bits are created equal -- just like all other tools. I'll get it done right, with some help from my local Home Depot. I'm sure another bolt will break along the way, so it's probably best to be prepared.
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10-04-2015, 10:33 AM
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#8
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Careful not to drill into your radiator once you get through the bolt. Put something above the support. Preferably metal.
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10-04-2015, 10:49 AM
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#9
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Left handed drill bits, some fluid and easy outs are ok but they break often. You need to drill all the way through the bolt to relieve some of the tension. Square easy outs are better than 5sides. Use a punch to start your drill on the centre of the bolt, so you don't drift when starting the hole. Smallest bit first, (less than 1/16" usually breaks pretty easy).
If you can drill all the way through and it still won't budge, you could always hit it with a torch. If you can isolate the bolt with the hole in it, and heat it preferentially, it will expand slightly, the shrink a lot when it cools, typically enough to break the adhesion / tension, and you can back it right out. This usually doesn't work very well unless there is somewhere for the bolt to shrink (ie the hole in the centre of the bolt allows the material to shrink into that space)
Others use the same technique but tack weld a smaller bolt to the inside of the larger bolt. The expansion / compression during cooling is still enough that you might just turn it out.
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10-04-2015, 02:54 PM
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#10
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1. Use some good goggles to protect your eyes from shavings in the close working area.
2. I have found some self taping bolts to drill and tap hard steel better (two jobs in one).
3. 3/16” bits are fairly good about not breaking if you let it take it’s time using oil vs forcing it.
Good Luck!
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10-05-2015, 10:46 PM
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#11
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I'm feeling lucky after reading about other folks troubles with the bolts, mine are all OK after at least two dozen oil changes. Always do my own oil changes and never lived where they salt the roads...maybe that's the key.
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10-05-2015, 11:00 PM
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#12
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Yeah, salt is definitely the key...
I drilled out the broken bolt without problem. I then ran into two others that wouldn't budge. One went from a hex head to a football shape and didn't move. The other I laid off because it wasn't moving at all and I didn't want to footballize it. Any thoughts on how to move em? I sprayed them with PB Blaster, banged on them with a hammer and screw driver, but nothing... This is the second time I had to put it back together after attempting it. What a crappy feeling...
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01-02-2016, 06:41 PM
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#13
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I feel you. It sucks when you have your day all planned out and then stuff breaks. But I am glad you have this post here and so many helpful people with good posts. I have 3-4 broken skid plate bolts that need attention. Not sure when I will get to it, but soon...
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01-04-2016, 01:35 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erkelbot
Well, here I am again with a broken bolt. I was installing an RCI skid plate on my 08 4Runner SR5, and I broke the front right skid plate bolt when I was taking off the OEM. Literally the first one... PB blaster and all...
My question is, what options do I have?... I'm guessing it's going to need to be drilled out, which is super super (SUPER) irritating. Other ideas? Would everyone recommend I bring it to a body shop and have them do it? I would consider myself a novice when it comes to drilling out bolts.
I hate broken bolts.
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I broke a couple of those as well. I just busted off the nut and bolt and welded on a new nut on the outside of the frame where I could get to it easier.
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01-04-2016, 09:24 PM
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#15
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erkelbot
Yeah, salt is definitely the key...
I drilled out the broken bolt without problem. I then ran into two others that wouldn't budge. One went from a hex head to a football shape and didn't move. The other I laid off because it wasn't moving at all and I didn't want to footballize it. Any thoughts on how to move em? I sprayed them with PB Blaster, banged on them with a hammer and screw driver, but nothing... This is the second time I had to put it back together after attempting it. What a crappy feeling...
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Are you using an impact? Impacts can usually break the stubborn ones loose. Make sure you are using a nice socket with 6 sides, not 12.
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2006 Sr5 V6 4x4. DS 2.5/1.5, Waag brush & rear bumper guards, Vsc off mod, fog light mod, key & seat belt reminder disabled, weather techs.
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