I ordered a set of LCA bushings and ball joints through O'Reilly, Moog parts for all. The total parts cost was around $150. I paid a local machine shop $150 to press out the old parts, and press in the new. I did all of the work myself. Alignment was $95, which needs to be done after this work, so tha total was $400 to do the whole job. Another option to spending hours yourself trying to press out the old junk. $150 was way worth it to me to avoid that hassle!

Thanks for the heads up, will give it a shot. Does penetrating oil or pb blaster help in this case?

Thanks for the suggestion on the c-clamp kit. Wasn't sure which one would work as I have read there are plenty that don't fit correctly. So based on your experience sounds like I should leave the control arms in, but disconnect the tie rod and knuckle to do the ball joint first, thendrop it to replace the bushings?

You won't have to remove the tie rod to get the LCA out. Yes, it would be definitely easier to crank on the ball joint while its in the vehicle since it would be attached. If you have a big impact, you can do it outside. I did one by hand and bought the Bauer electric impact from HF for the other one lol.

From there, you can remove the LCA and do the bushings.

Also if the ball joint gets stuck in that knuckle plate, you can cut it in half and then press each part out. I had to do that on my second LCA. I need to update that thread with these pics, but it slipped my mind.

Clarkson! - the first picture I posted is the setup I used. The floor jack is holding up the coil spacer. The ball joint is already 1/2 way out in that picture.

I just hammered straight onto the ball joint head. Once it got out about half way, I just used the ball peen side of the 3 lb hammer so as to not damage the LCA.

I've used the C-clamp ball joint press many times. The one I rented didn't have cups that fit the lower control arm. Another store may have it for rent, but O'Reilly didn't work for mine.

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone on here who has provided me with guidance the last few weeks. This weekend I rebuilt my lcas, upgraded my suspension and added a lift. Couldn't have done it without you all!

Forgot to mention, I took a page out of ChrisFix's book and froze my bushings and ball joints prior to pressing and was able to get them more than 80% of the way in just pushing by hand. Used the 23 piece press kit from advance auto parts to fully seat them in the lcas.

Thats awesome man! I do enjoy ChrisFix too! I also froze mine, here they are next to some ice cream and on top of some frozen veggies haha

If you just want to replace the LBJs its really not too bad. I did it on my old FJC ‘07 and again last week on my 07 T4R. Leave the LCA on the truck so you can apply max torque on the C-clamp tool (get the big kit, not the small kit. It can be rented from AutoZone, advance auto parts, etc)

1) lift front end so both wheels are off ground and remove wheels
1a) remove CV from knuckle (either have assistant press brakes, or use impact
2) leave caliper and rotor on the knuckle
3) disconnect the sway bar link from knuckle
4) remove 2 bolts from LBJ to knuckle
5) swing the knuckle forward and secure out of the way, careful not to stretch brake hose and ABS cord
6) remove LBJ stud nut, pickle fork the stud out of mount
7) the knuckle is still held on by tie rod and UBJ. Remove LBJ C-clip and spray with penetrating oil. The LBJ will not want to budge.
8) setup C-clamp press with screw pointing upward.
8a) using. 1/2” breaker bar and pipe at least 2’ long, start compressing the LBJ out. You will get to a point where it wont move and you cant tighten any more. Perfect!
8b) with a BFH 3-5# hammer, hit the head of the screw towards LBJ. The shock will break the LBJ FREE. Tighten, hammer, tighten, hammer, tighten hammer, repeat until it moves without the hammer.
9) clean up the LBJ hole and press in the new LBJ “straight.” If you have a zirk, point it towards the transmission (45* inward). I needed a 45* zirk) Grease joint until you see rubber boot start to change shape. Dont over fill.
10) start the LBJ stud on the LBJ mount with nut, dont torque yet.
11) Reinstall the CV axle back in the knuckle and spin on the 32mm nut tight, but Torque later
12) bolt the 2 LBJ mount bolts onto knuckle, torque to spec. Use red loctite
13) lift the LCA so you can Install the sway bar link into knuckle and torque to spec
14) torque the LBJ stud nut to spec
15) have assistant hold brakes tight and torque axle nut to spec (175# IIRC)

Double check your work and button it up.

I found USA made Pro forge LBJs on rockauto for $25 each. Million mile warranty. Both case and stud are forged high strength and high quality.

Start to finish 90 minutes per side and you wont have to rebuild the LCA unless you want to.

How I replaced lower ball joints on FJ | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Nice! My wife's look was priceless when I told her I needed to put some car parts in the freezer 😅😅😅

How long have you been running those ball joints? I opted for Senkei three 5, but these look promising.

You know, I froze mine and sanded off the crud in the LCA opening and had to press them in the whole way, could barely get them started by hand, like barely.

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Guess I just got lucky... Think I was due though considering the fight all the old hardware put up! 😅

2 weeks on the 4runner, but 2 years on the FJC before I sold it. I tried a lesser brand and it went in cockeyed and deformed. I have used pro forged tie rods on my lexus is300. Solid built parts. I dont think you can find any negative comments on the internet. I couldnt before buying them.

Just an observation.
Out of 6 BallJoints i have, 2 oem t4r, 2 of the three555 and 2 budget randos that i dont know the brands. Only 1 of the randos has that gap between the C-clip and UCA. Like your picture. Maybe its fine, it is pressed in there real good.