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Old 02-18-2020, 08:37 PM #751
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Check out this guys build thread on tacomaworld. - Rollover rescue 05 tundra | Tacoma World
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Old 02-18-2020, 09:48 PM #752
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Check out this guys build thread on tacomaworld. - Rollover rescue 05 tundra | Tacoma World
Yeah that's pretty cool, I just skimmed it. I'm eyeing those wheels now.
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:41 PM #753
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So according to the VIN on Toyota's website my Tundra had a factory-installed rear LSD.

However we noticed sealant around the 3rd member, not the factory gasket, so somebody probably cracked it open at some point to service something.

There is one service entry in 2006 where it says "DIAGNOSIS ~|~REAR U JOINT? SQUEEKING"

The question is how do I test to see if I have a LSD? The couple tire peels I've done seem to only involve 1 tire... I need to find a dirt road.
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Old 02-21-2020, 02:42 PM #754
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So according to the VIN on Toyota's website my Tundra had a factory-installed rear LSD.

However we noticed sealant around the 3rd member, not the factory gasket, so somebody probably cracked it open at some point to service something.

There is one service entry in 2006 where it says "DIAGNOSIS ~|~REAR U JOINT? SQUEEKING"

The question is how do I test to see if I have a LSD? The couple tire peels I've done seem to only involve 1 tire... I need to find a dirt road.
Full brake stand send burnout should tell you what you want to know lol
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Old 02-22-2020, 09:10 PM #755
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Changing timing belt/ WP/ alternator on the Tundra this weekend at 206k miles. Halfway done bolting it back together. Used Aisin TKT-021.

What's this crap and should I have changed out the radiator, will there be more in there?



As far as I can tell it's not an OEM belt. No markings on it at all. Looks pretty old:



Water pump a little leaky:



All in all not too bad of a job.
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Old 02-22-2020, 09:31 PM #756
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Changing timing belt/ WP/ alternator on the
What's this crap and should I have changed out the radiator, will there be more in there?

Looks like dried up coolant. May have sat and not run for long enough that some coolant dried in the lines or some coolant dried around some contaminates in the lines.

I believe theres some places that make all aluminum, tig welded radiators for the tundras.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:52 PM #757
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Yesterday's timing belt change was successful on the Tundra.

It rained all night and I noticed water on the passenger floor, running down from the A pillar. Some of it I guess ran across the headliner, and during turns/bumps from my commute, would leak from the rearview mirror area and down the inside of the windshield.

Next fix: replace roof seals LOL.
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Old 03-01-2020, 01:28 PM #758
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Investigated the water drip in the Tundra, ended up pulling the headliner yesterday and pouring water over the roof. There is a surprising amount of condensation collecting above the headliner. I think it rained the night before.






Sound deadening material is hanging down:



These must have been unpainted brackets. The condensation and humidity above the headliner got to them.



Before:



I discovered water leaked in the top windshield seam. I taped the paint just under the trim, and laid a bead of sealant in the gap under the trim. Its a cheap aftermarket windshield so somebody must have screwed up the install and didn't use enough sealant around the top of the windshield. We'll see if my fix works and if not, getting the windshield reinstalled is probably the next step. The plastic trim isn't a seal itself it gets glued in with the windshield, I'm just adding more glue basically.

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Old 03-07-2020, 07:48 PM #759
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Took a couple hours to fix my exhaust on the Tundra. Dead silent now, probably quieter than stock, and quieter than what I remember my stock 4Runner as.

I found my stock 4Runner muffler and welded her in. Tundra on left 4Runner on right.



Old muffler was hanging on for dear life.















And I now can confirm the LSD works, but I won't reveal my methods LOL. Lets just say there is no form of traction control and a clean 0-60 run is impossible.

[

I had a wild idea about why the Tundra driver's door doesn't slam close very easily and requires my hand to apply force all the way until its shut or really slam it to keep it from popping open 1/4". Previously I worked the latch back and forth with a screwdriver, sprayed WD40 all over it, checked to make sure the hinges weren't sagging, etc. No improvement.

My theory was that air wasn't escaping out of the cabin vents and had to squeeze past the door as it shut. I closed the door and kept my hand near the seam when it closed and felt a whoosh of air... I cranked down the window and lightly slammed the door. It latched perfectly. Diagnosis complete.

Now to inspect the cabin vents in the B pillar, I can't get to them through tearing apart the interior, I already tried. I'll need to take off the bed I guess. The regular cabs have a different location for the vents than the access cabs and are harder to reach.
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Old 03-13-2020, 04:07 PM #760
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I know its been a hot minute, but how have those EK blocks held up? It's been a few years since I built a water-cooled system, but the last time I did, EK was having massive issues with their platings - particularly the nickel. I ended up using Heatkiller instead.

Also, I just found this thread and read all 51 pages - it was pretty cool to see your skills progress over time.
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Old 03-16-2020, 04:59 PM #761
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I know its been a hot minute, but how have those EK blocks held up? It's been a few years since I built a water-cooled system, but the last time I did, EK was having massive issues with their platings - particularly the nickel. I ended up using Heatkiller instead.

Also, I just found this thread and read all 51 pages - it was pretty cool to see your skills progress over time.
As far as I can tell the blocks are fine. The Corsair Commander fan controller crapped out on me, and its plugged in at the very bottom of the motherboard, which means to replace it I need to empty the loop and remove the lower radiator. EK just came out with their fan controller a month ago so I'll probably swap to that. Been playing Escape from Tarkov, Borderlands, and Doom Eternal comes out the 20th. Not much truck building the past couple weeks.

I had no idea how to do anything before I bought this truck, it has taught me a lot and I enjoy working on it. Thanks for noticing!
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Old 03-24-2020, 07:22 PM #762
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Does anybody think there would be a market for a set of stainless log-style headers? I could weld-in a cat of your choice or no cats, and we could have them ceramic coated, or bare to save cost and ceramic coated at a local place if you so choose.

The reason for me welding a log-style vs collector is that the collector is trickier to weld, and expensive to buy out. Log is easy to do, saves room, and being from thicker gauge material, and stainless, would prevent cracking like the stock ones are prone to. I'm making a jig with the Doug Thorley headers I have so I could theoretically weld a couple log ones up pretty easily. Likely would block off the air injection ports for the 05-09 with a custom flange and not have to mess welding all that on.

What cost would this need to be at? $500 w/o cats and ceramic coat?
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:39 AM #763
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$500 seems reasonable. Can you supply a drawing of your proposed vs. what the OEM look like? Wouldn't want to install a manifold that was less efficient at exhausting than the OEM, even though it's a log there are still some exhaust flow parameters it meets to insure that a certain level of performance is attained.
Just my thoughts. I appreciate your spirit!
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Old 03-25-2020, 12:18 PM #764
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So like a "beefed up" OEM style, using weld els?

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Old 03-25-2020, 06:52 PM #765
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$500 seems reasonable. Can you supply a drawing of your proposed vs. what the OEM look like? Wouldn't want to install a manifold that was less efficient at exhausting than the OEM, even though it's a log there are still some exhaust flow parameters it meets to insure that a certain level of performance is attained.
Just my thoughts. I appreciate your spirit!
I'll just make a prototype to start. The factory manifolds are straight tubes merging at 90 degrees which seems to me doesn't really have any performance features, mostly cost or space-saving intent.



If I built it like this one with angled merges it would flow a lot better.



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So like a "beefed up" OEM style, using weld els?
Yes, if I could find some fairly thick tubing and elbows, or just rely on the thick flange material and SS construction it should be pretty strong.

Here's the start of the jig I'm making. Hopefully this weekend.

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