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Old 03-26-2020, 04:31 PM #766
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I discovered water leaked in the top windshield seam. I taped the paint just under the trim, and laid a bead of sealant in the gap under the trim. Its a cheap aftermarket windshield so somebody must have screwed up the install and didn't use enough sealant around the top of the windshield. We'll see if my fix works and if not, getting the windshield reinstalled is probably the next step. The plastic trim isn't a seal itself it gets glued in with the windshield, I'm just adding more glue basically.
Any issues with water leaking since then? I think I may have same issue but can't quite figure it out just yet where it's coming from. Sunroof drains are all clear.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:16 PM #767
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Any issues with water leaking since then? I think I may have same issue but can't quite figure it out just yet where it's coming from. Sunroof drains are all clear.
Yes, but more on the driver's side now whereas before it was on the passenger's side. So I think I'm getting closer, I'll lay another bead in there when the weather cooperates.



Got one jig pretty close, almost ready for welding.

If I had to design it again I might have used blind threaded/bottomed out studs vs the countersunk bolts. But you've got to admit the countersunk bolts look nice.







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Old 03-26-2020, 10:46 PM #768
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You can drill holes in each port later on so you can back purge
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Old 03-26-2020, 10:49 PM #769
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You can drill holes in each port later on so you can back purge
Ed knows all about hole drillin'!
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Old 03-26-2020, 10:53 PM #770
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Ed knows all about hole drillin'!
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:47 PM #771
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You can drill holes in each port later on so you can back purge
I probably should have made it out of a thicker plate of aluminum so I could drill holes in the side of the jig and install fittings on the edge. That way the bottom is still smooth. Might still be able to fit them on the side. I'll be honest, didn't get that far yet.
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:28 PM #772
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Well dangit, can't form a puddle in the 3/8 aluminum with 120v/150a machine setting. Need 220v to get the full 200a. Will have to bring my welder and Argon to my grandpa's shop where he has 220v to finish up the jigs.
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:21 PM #773
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Originally Posted by Inv4drZm View Post
Well dangit, can't form a puddle in the 3/8 aluminum with 120v/150a machine setting. Need 220v to get the full 200a. Will have to bring my welder and Argon to my grandpa's shop where he has 220v to finish up the jigs.
No dryer circuit at your house? or is that not enough amperage either? or maybe the outlet isn't close enough to your work space.
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:56 PM #774
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No dryer circuit at your house? or is that not enough amperage either? or maybe the outlet isn't close enough to your work space.
Long story on that.

I do have a 220 dryer outlet, its about 30ft from the garage, down the stairs. My grandpa has an extension cord too, which is pretty long. I grabbed it today but different plug, I guess welders use a different style plug than dryers. To buy a 50ft extension cord and adapter from Amazon is $200. I'll try the freebie option first to see if it works out. I shouldn't need 220v again after welding these jigs.

Kind of a weird difference between mig and tig that I didn't realize. With mig welding low voltage it still basically works, just low penetration. With tig you can't join anything, you need to form a concentrated molten puddle to add filler wire to, and with low amps the aluminum just absorbs the heat, no puddle, can't add filler.
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Old 03-27-2020, 10:34 PM #775
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Long story on that.

I do have a 220 dryer outlet, its about 30ft from the garage, down the stairs. My grandpa has an extension cord too, which is pretty long. I grabbed it today but different plug, I guess welders use a different style plug than dryers. To buy a 50ft extension cord and adapter from Amazon is $200. I'll try the freebie option first to see if it works out. I shouldn't need 220v again after welding these jigs.

Kind of a weird difference between mig and tig that I didn't realize. With mig welding low voltage it still basically works, just low penetration. With tig you can't join anything, you need to form a concentrated molten puddle to add filler wire to, and with low amps the aluminum just absorbs the heat, no puddle, can't add filler.
I picked up a used Hobart 175 mig last summer and found that out. I had some heavy 12/3 cable about 20' long sitting here for an old project, and bought this Leviton 50A universal at lowes or the depot for less than $20. Might be an option in the future if you can find some cable cheap enough. At 30' you might have to go to 10 guage to be safe though. Might be more trouble than it's worth or just run a new circuit down to the garage if it gets to be a necessity.
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Old 03-27-2020, 10:40 PM #776
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Your work is looking pretty damn good by the way!!
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Old 03-28-2020, 01:14 AM #777
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Probably less than $200 to have an electrician just add an outlet in garage

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Old 03-28-2020, 06:15 AM #778
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Probably less than $200 to have an electrician just add an outlet in garage

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That's only if the electric panel can handled one more 220V circuit, you can only have so much load in a electric panel, if it's already at max capacity you can't add another circuit.
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Old 03-28-2020, 07:28 AM #779
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That's only if the electric panel can handled one more 220V circuit, you can only have so much load in a electric panel, if it's already at max capacity you can't add another circuit.
That's true, I forgot about that. Even if there is space in the panel for a 220 breaker, the main might not be rated high enough to handle the load. You could make sure your HVAC, oven and dryer aren't running while your welding, but it still wouldn't be ideal or up to code. And then you might have the problem of old panel equipment that is discontinued and breakers would be hard to find, really expensive, or both. The old Federal Pacific panels here in Florida are one example.
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Old 04-01-2020, 10:06 PM #780
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great build

This is really dense with info for your build. If I do start from zero, I'll be taking queues here.

Great build
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