[awhitney1]

I'd do it, looks like it'll require some modifications!

Originally Posted by 4RunnerAquasport

Come to think of it Sherpa put a 200 Rack in as well.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3593153-post104.html

Now you got me thinking damn it.

[montijo505]

You made a cameo on off-road hub’s you tube story just now! Recognized the rig immediately lol





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[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by montijo505

You made a cameo on off-road hub’s you tube story just now! Recognized the rig immediately lol

Attachment 383372



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Yeah that's us in the back of the Rubicon line LOL. We had a good time hanging out.

Starting on page 67 of this thread I've posted a few of his videos that our group was in. Fordyce, Signal Peak, Rubicon, Blanca Peak.

[awhitney1]

@Inv4drZm

Seem to be having a little trouble with my dana60 from east coast gear supply. The first pic shows the stock u-joint not fitting to the housing on the axle and the second pic, just feel like the spring might move around, doesn't seem right to me.

Also, the stock rear sway bar doesn't fit either.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

@Inv4drZm

Seem to be having a little trouble with my dana60 from east coast gear supply. The first pic shows the stock u-joint not fitting to the housing on the axle and the second pic, just feel like the spring might move around, doesn't seem right to me.

Also, the stock rear sway bar doesn't fit either.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

According to these old pictures of mine and a rusty memory, you'll need to remove the old Toyota u joint and install another one that adapts it from the Toyota driveshaft to the Dana 60 yoke (should have also sent the u bolts for the new yoke). This should have come with the new axle from ECGS. I had no clue how to do this, so luckily my buddy helping me did and without screwing it up we were able to pull it off. According to him there is a danger with the little needle bearings falling out and not getting positioned correctly.

I have the old boxes still, type these into google you'll find some pics.
(1) Spicer U-bolt Kit 2-94-28X
(1) Powertrain Industries 1351-31 (ECGS #U-TOY-MITS-1310)



And according to this pic, the axle came with hard plastic spring isolators that have a lip you use for the first coil, though I don't believe these isolators were actually attached to the axle, so the springs could still spin around. Maybe ECGS doesn't include these anymore, I'm not entirely sure what they do.

As for the stock sway bar fitting, I've never tried. Does it not fit over the hump in the middle?

[awhitney1]

Thanks so much for the reply and your help!

So as for the U-joint, buddy and I did find the one that ECGS provided. Removed the old Toyota U-joint, but there came a problem. When installing the new u-joint from ECGS, we had a hard time getting the u-joint "C" clips to go in between the stock drive shaft and the u-joint itself. What end up happening is, we actually blew the top of the u-joint when trying to force the u-joint into the shaft to fit the "C" clip. I called ECGS this morning and they want some pics to see what's going on. Just kind of weird that we had such a hard time getting that darn "C" clip to fit into the u-joint. Just wasn't quite enough room to fit it into the drive shaft.

As for the springs, I didn't get any plastic spring isolators and Paul at ECGS said that with my setup, I didn't need to worry about not having them, I might call back and refer to see if I still need the plastic spring isolator. Just doesn't seem right.

The stock sway bar does not fit over the hump in the middle, the hump is too wide for the sway bar bracket to fit through.

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

According to these old pictures of mine and a rusty memory, you'll need to remove the old Toyota u joint and install another one that adapts it from the Toyota driveshaft to the Dana 60 yoke (should have also sent the u bolts for the new yoke). This should have come with the new axle from ECGS. I had no clue how to do this, so luckily my buddy helping me did and without screwing it up we were able to pull it off. According to him there is a danger with the little needle bearings falling out and not getting positioned correctly.

I have the old boxes still, type these into google you'll find some pics.
(1) Spicer U-bolt Kit 2-94-28X
(1) Powertrain Industries 1351-31 (ECGS #U-TOY-MITS-1310)



And according to this pic, the axle came with hard plastic spring isolators that have a lip you use for the first coil, though I don't believe these isolators were actually attached to the axle, so the springs could still spin around. Maybe ECGS doesn't include these anymore, I'm not entirely sure what they do.

As for the stock sway bar fitting, I've never tried. Does it not fit over the hump in the middle?

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Thanks so much for the reply and your help!

So as for the U-joint, buddy and I did find the one that ECGS provided. Removed the old Toyota U-joint, but there came a problem. When installing the new u-joint from ECGS, we had a hard time getting the u-joint "C" clips to go in between the stock drive shaft and the u-joint itself. What end up happening is, we actually blew the top of the u-joint when trying to force the u-joint into the shaft to fit the "C" clip. I called ECGS this morning and they want some pics to see what's going on. Just kind of weird that we had such a hard time getting that darn "C" clip to fit into the u-joint. Just wasn't quite enough room to fit it into the drive shaft.

As for the springs, I didn't get any plastic spring isolators and Paul at ECGS said that with my setup, I didn't need to worry about not having them, I might call back and refer to see if I still need the plastic spring isolator. Just doesn't seem right.

The stock sway bar does not fit over the hump in the middle, the hump is too wide for the sway bar bracket to fit through.

Now that you say that I vaguely remember grinding down the clip or the driveshaft or something to get those c-clips in. At least I think so, might try it.

Good luck!

[awhitney1]

Ah ok, didn't think about grinding the c-clip down, i'll try that. With the part number for the u-joint you gave me, I went ahead and ordered a new one since we busted that one that came from ECGS lol.

As for the rear sway bar not fitting, I guess I don't really need it, do I?

Thanks again!

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

Now that you say that I vaguely remember grinding down the clip or the driveshaft or something to get those c-clips in. At least I think so, might try it.

Good luck!

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Ah ok, didn't think about grinding the c-clip down, i'll try that. With the part number for the u-joint you gave me, I went ahead and ordered a new one since we busted that one that came from ECGS lol.

As for the rear sway bar not fitting, I guess I don't really need it, do I?

Thanks again!

IMO no you don't really need it, and there are better aftermarket 'offroad' options if you want to spend the money to reduce sway. (TK1, Currie, Genright, TMR,etc) You'll just need to realize you're driving a tall, heavy truck and adapt your driving style and expectations. A new passenger might wet their pants during a turn but you'll get used to driving it.

[awhitney1]

Guess i'll see how it drives without the sway bar lol. I do a lot more offroading than highway miles, so we will see how it goes!

Just hope this new u-joint I ordered works and i'll keep in mind about grinding the c clip next time.

Thanks again for the help!

So i have this rear ox locker ready to go, just have to insert the switch in the cab, front arb locker with 4.88 gears, wish me luck and hope all goes well!

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

IMO no you don't really need it, and there are better aftermarket 'offroad' options if you want to spend the money to reduce sway. (TK1, Currie, Genright, TMR,etc) You'll just need to realize you're driving a tall, heavy truck and adapt your driving style and expectations. A new passenger might wet their pants during a turn but you'll get used to driving it.

[awhitney1]

I talked to ECGS again today and they are going to send me the spring isolators and also a new u-joint. I knew something wasn't right when there weren't any spring isolators.

BTW, your Dana60 info on page 39 was very helpful!

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

IMO no you don't really need it, and there are better aftermarket 'offroad' options if you want to spend the money to reduce sway. (TK1, Currie, Genright, TMR,etc) You'll just need to realize you're driving a tall, heavy truck and adapt your driving style and expectations. A new passenger might wet their pants during a turn but you'll get used to driving it.

[AuSeeker]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Thanks so much for the reply and your help!

So as for the U-joint, buddy and I did find the one that ECGS provided. Removed the old Toyota U-joint, but there came a problem. When installing the new u-joint from ECGS, we had a hard time getting the u-joint "C" clips to go in between the stock drive shaft and the u-joint itself. What end up happening is, we actually blew the top of the u-joint when trying to force the u-joint into the shaft to fit the "C" clip. I called ECGS this morning and they want some pics to see what's going on. Just kind of weird that we had such a hard time getting that darn "C" clip to fit into the u-joint. Just wasn't quite enough room to fit it into the drive shaft.

As for the springs, I didn't get any plastic spring isolators and Paul at ECGS said that with my setup, I didn't need to worry about not having them, I might call back and refer to see if I still need the plastic spring isolator. Just doesn't seem right.

The stock sway bar does not fit over the hump in the middle, the hump is too wide for the sway bar bracket to fit through.

A question on the issue with getting the u-joint in, I'm old and have been doing all my own work on mine, family and friends vehicles for well over 50+ years as well doing mechanical work for a living for numerous years and when trying to get a u-joint in the yoke you have to remove one of needle bearing cups or both to get them pressed in the yoke, when doing this it's very easy to dislodge one or several of the needles bearings in the cup and you don't realize it until you can't get the cup to fully seat because the needle/s are now laying flat inside the cup instead of against the side wall of the cup, which will many times blow out the end of the cup with enough pressure, just wondering if you checked to see if that was why the cup wouldn't fully seat enough to get the C-clip in the groove?

[awhitney1]

That's a great question and really appreciate your input. I will have to check with my friend who was trying to press in the u-joint into the yoke and see what he says.

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

A question on the issue with getting the u-joint in, I'm old and have been doing all my own work on mine, family and friends vehicles for well over 50+ years as well doing mechanical work for a living for numerous years and when trying to get a u-joint in the yoke you have to remove one of needle bearing cups or both to get them pressed in the yoke, when doing this it's very easy to dislodge one or several of the needles bearings in the cup and you don't realize it until you can't get the cup to fully seat because the needle/s are now laying flat inside the cup instead of against the side wall of the cup, which will many times blow out the end of the cup with enough pressure, just wondering if you checked to see if that was why the cup wouldn't fully seat enough to get the C-clip in the groove?

[awhitney1]

@Inv4drZm

Did you happen to run extended rear wheel studs on the Dana60?

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

@Inv4drZm

Did you happen to run extended rear wheel studs on the Dana60?

No, just whatever came with it.