[Inv4drZm]

Engine oil change, had 10,500 miles on it... Still using Mobil 1 Synthetic.

Washed my AEM air filter too. Part of me wants to go back to a stock paper filter for quick changes and better filtering but paper is useless if it gets wet.

Also installed the upper links today, I already installed the lowers last weekend. I lengthened the lowers by 1/4" and the uppers by 3/8". Both sides are heims so I was expecting some added vibrations, but yeah, it's about as bad as I expected. That's just the lowers installed; I'll do some driving with the uppers and see how much worse it gets.

Not ideal but they were cheap and it'll be strong enough for my D60. They'll hold me over until I properly link the rear end.



Front Range Offroad links vs my brother's RESZ Fab offset links.









I just zipped-tied the ebrake cable mount out of the way, no provisions to mount them on these lower links.

[Inv4drZm]

Finally ordered proper hardware.

Before:



After:

[awhitney1]

Nice build!! I'm gonna need around 10k for all the goodies I want to add to my 4runner lol

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Nice build!! I'm gonna need around 10k for all the goodies I want to add to my 4runner lol

That's about what I have into it at this point. And I haven't fell in the rabbit hole quite yet.


Started running the air lines for my compressor. ARB quick disconnect point in the bumper shell. Cable gland fitting to seal it off. There is an ARB dust cover I will be using as well for the QD. I installed all of this without removing my rear bumper which I thought was an impressive feat.



Used a step drill to make an access hole. Took 30 min to thread that nut onto the backside of the cable gland without dropping it into the channel and loosing it forever. A plastic snap in cap from McMaster-Carr should plug the hole.





Capped:



Now with dust cap installed:

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

I have about 1.5"-1.75" of room to compress my current driveshaft, but a guy on the FJ forums said his ended up being 43.25" long w/ the D60 and mine currently is 46" long which is 2.75" of difference so I might be cutting closer to 2" off.



Compressed all the way:

Did some more measuring for the driveshaft cut. Mainly talking out loud here but some might like the pictures. Looks to be 3.5" of travel before the female end pulls out of the sleeve part. I guess that would be the safe travel amount?

If I have 1.75" to compress it from ride height then that means it has 1.75" of extension left; perfectly centered now. This doesn't really mean anything unless I measure with the suspension compressed and extended to get a ballpark of its current range but I don't think it compresses more than .5" and extends more than 1".

So cutting 1.75" might be good? If the new diff is 3" larger I'll still have .5" of compression room and if it is only 1" larger I'll have 1" of extension room + a couple more inches of splines.


EDIT:

So it extends from 1.75" of room at ride height to 2.25" of compression room when I jack up the bumper to get both rear shocks extended. So my estimate of 1" extension is wrong, its only .5".

It's probably only .5" either way from ride height.

Cutting 2"; if the new diff is 3" larger I'll still have .75" of compression room and if it is only 1" larger I'll have .75" of extension room + a couple more inches of splines.

[Inv4drZm]

Drove to the old flex spot after work and tested her out.



Sitting on the newly-installed Wheeler's superbump.



Without the superbump I could tuck the tire well up into the fender. Now it's just below level so it should work well with my new axle being 3" wider each side.



Also polished my headlights for the 3rd time. The spray-on clear coat started peeling off the top of the headlight. Wet sanded it with 400,1000,2000 grit then will polish it with my DA machine and clear coat them this time with the Sylvania kit that has worked well on my mom's Sequoia.

Also also washed out my radiator while I had the hose out, I'm sure my engine will thank me.

Before:


After (will still need to polish though the Sylvania clear coat would work fine at this stage):

[Inv4drZm]

Polished the rest of the way:



With Sylvania clear coat:

[Inv4drZm]

I probably cooked my switchpros by washing my engine bay today. I noticed my led lights turned themselves on tonight in the driveway and the control panel didn't light up with my key in the ignition.

2yr warranty and I bought them new in box from a member on here 2 yrs 1 mth ago.
And I had them mounted horizontally against their recommendation of vertically.
Ouch.

[Inv4drZm]

Achievement unlocked, Level 75 Toyota Technician.

Worked until 10:30 at night in the driveway reassembling my parking brake so I can drive to work the next morning.

[awhitney1]

Lol, gotta get it done so you can get to work and make that money for more parts!

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

Achievement unlocked, Level 75 Toyota Technician.

Worked until 10:30 at night in the driveway reassembling my parking brake so I can drive to work the next morning.

[montijo505]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

Achievement unlocked, Level 75 Toyota Technician.

Worked until 10:30 at night in the driveway reassembling my parking brake so I can drive to work the next morning.

How much of a pain is it?


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[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Lol, gotta get it done so you can get to work and make that money for more parts!

The cycle continues.

Originally Posted by montijo505

How much of a pain is it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The front shoe springs werent that bad, the bent rear pins took the longest. I stretched the rear pin enough to rub the back of the hub and 'unlocked' the front pin when I removed the rotor. I tried using the parts kit from Autozone but I couldnt get the spring compressed enough to lock in the rear pin so I reused the original pin I stretched and bent it back a little.

Most use a string or needlenose pliers to compress the spring but I only had 2 tiny screwdrivers. I don't think it was too bad considering everyone seems to absolutely hate it.

[montijo505]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

The cycle continues.







The front shoe springs werent that bad, the bent rear pins took the longest. I stretched the rear pin enough to rub the back of the hub and 'unlocked' the front pin when I removed the rotor. I tried using the parts kit from Autozone but I couldnt get the spring compressed enough to lock in the rear pin so I reused the original pin I stretched and bent it back a little.



Most use a string or needlenose pliers to compress the spring but I only had 2 tiny screwdrivers. I don't think it was too bad considering everyone seems to absolutely hate it.

Everyone makes it out to be worse than doing the headers/manifolds so I’ve been putting it off lol. Also super jealous of your rig by the way, nice build.


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[Inv4drZm]

I wonder what I'll be doing this weekend...
Expensive carwash repair.
New aluminum mount plate and cover. I'll probably make a fiberglass or carbon fiber cover using the aluminum one as a mold eventually.



Old one:

[Inv4drZm]

More progress. I think I'll hold the cover down with something similar to a battery tie-down/strap.

Plugged it all in and it works. The newer switchpro is a little nicer than my old one, RGB button panel, some more higher amperage outputs, separate connectors for the button panel and outputs, and a proper cord for the button panel instead of loomed wires. Some other stuff I'm probably missing.

Tomorrow I'll work on wiring my compressor, its all bolted in already.

Oh yeah, set my dial calipers on my tire and drove off, good thing they weren't Mitutoyo's. Used to use them all the time at my old job. RIP.