Ah I do remember this post. Sorry my old man memory is sporadic at best.
That will be one of a kind geometry for a 4th and 5th gen. Unless I haven't seen one on the web that might be out there.
But Im thinking that area behind the fender well is usually dead space anyway and easier to seal back up with no doors or tank to work around.
3 link would probably net you a lot of droop.
Trying to visualize the cycle movement of the axle and how it will work with that geometry.
Pretty cool idea!
And forward mounted shocks start to run into the rear seat. The only thing tricky about mounting them to the rear is the fuel tank filler lines on the driver's side and the frame-side panhard mount sticks out a little on the passenger side. I'll need to remount the panhard and shorten it a couple inches.
On the ECGS axles the axle-side suspension brackets are way beefier than stock. On my 3-link I think I can pretty easily get away with using the existing link mounts, just delete the driver's side upper link and reposition the frame side mount for the passenger upper link. Then without the link above the fuel tank, I can raise up the tank too.
I don't know if coilovers will really give much of a benefit over the standard setup, I just think it's different and will be able to change ride height easier. You can tune coils a little easier too.
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
Looks good and I'm sure you would find some buyers, especially if you made a 5th gen set.
Don't forget to allow enough room for body flex. Fit on those look pretty tight.
They don't bolt to the frame at all, so flex shouldn't be a problem. Besides, they've survived being dragged through the Rubicon and blasting down Blanca Peak without an issue.
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
They don't bolt to the frame at all, so flex shouldn't be a problem. Besides, they've survived being dragged through the Rubicon and blasting down Blanca Peak without an issue.
That's a recommendation and a half. Blanca Peak is on my bucket list, I just don't have a rig or compatriots capable of doing it xD
The other thing you might consider is something like a trail kitchen that fits under the fold up shelf in the 4th gen. The trail kitchens are awesome, but something more shaped to fit in that space would be cool.
Just wanted to say that I spent the last 2 days reading through your thread start to finish. I always knew you had a bad rig since joining on here a year ago, but it was really awesome and encouraging to walk through the build start to finish.
I've been widely considering going to 37's for my build way on down the road, but just don't know if I can justify the cost.. I'd go either dana 60 rear or the tundra 10.5 like you thought about in order to gain clearance and equal out the stance with a +2 or +3.5 LT kit up front.. its a deep..deeep rabbit hole for sure.
I was surprised to see how relatively easy your 37's fit.. I dont know if you've seen the ToothlessT4r on instagram or not, but it looks like he resorted to quite a lot more firewall beating to clear his.. granted he is on a his own design of a log travel up front and is probably maximizing uptravel but anyhow..
How has your steering rack held up with the 37's? My thought would be to custom mount the tundra rack if I ever run 37's. Theres quite a bit of plasma cutting on the drivers side engine mount to clear the steering shaft but looks doable.
with regards to the rear coilover setup, have you considered maybe doing the ORI struts in their 14" travel setup? I just stumbled across those and have been considering them for a future build since they don't require a spring at all, are tunable, and are less wide in total diameter. Granted they're a bit pricier than coilovers, and the lead times look pretty long right now..
I also got pretty excited at the idea of a 19gal tank mounted in the rear. Going to do some more digging into the feasibility of that. Ultimately It would be nice to get rid of my tank and be able to run a double triangulated 4 link with longer arms... a 3-link setup is an option for the rear... however, for a heavy daily driven rig I would much prefer the added insurance of a 4-link in case of a failure... Without relocating the tank I was looking at the possibility of doing a radius arm setup on a longer arm... but if there is hope to move the tank that would open up the possibilities greatly.
Anyhow, refreshing to see your build thread is still active and going man, keep it up!
Just wanted to say that I spent the last 2 days reading through your thread start to finish. I always knew you had a bad rig since joining on here a year ago, but it was really awesome and encouraging to walk through the build start to finish.
I've been widely considering going to 37's for my build way on down the road, but just don't know if I can justify the cost.. I'd go either dana 60 rear or the tundra 10.5 like you thought about in order to gain clearance and equal out the stance with a +2 or +3.5 LT kit up front.. its a deep..deeep rabbit hole for sure.
I was surprised to see how relatively easy your 37's fit.. I dont know if you've seen the ToothlessT4r on instagram or not, but it looks like he resorted to quite a lot more firewall beating to clear his.. granted he is on a his own design of a log travel up front and is probably maximizing uptravel but anyhow..
One thing I don't like about instagram is it's hard to tell what mods people have. I haven't seen his truck but it looks similar to mine. Yes the LT geometry and alignment #s come into play, I also have a 1.5" body lift, but he does have fiberglass fenders so those are both probably the limits of our uptravel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
How has your steering rack held up with the 37's? My thought would be to custom mount the tundra rack if I ever run 37's. Theres quite a bit of plasma cutting on the drivers side engine mount to clear the steering shaft but looks doable.
Its held up fine for the Rubicon and Blanca Peak, but I'll admit I haven't wheeled it the past year or so. My brother mounted a tundra rack on his FJ but the geometry wasn't quite right and it squeals tires quite easily on turns.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
with regards to the rear coilover setup, have you considered maybe doing the ORI struts in their 14" travel setup? I just stumbled across those and have been considering them for a future build since they don't require a spring at all, are tunable, and are less wide in total diameter. Granted they're a bit pricier than coilovers, and the lead times look pretty long right now..
I haven't considered anything of that nature, I'd prefer to match the front setup with Kings. There should be plenty of room.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
I also got pretty excited at the idea of a 19gal tank mounted in the rear. Going to do some more digging into the feasibility of that. Ultimately It would be nice to get rid of my tank and be able to run a double triangulated 4 link with longer arms... a 3-link setup is an option for the rear... however, for a heavy daily driven rig I would much prefer the added insurance of a 4-link in case of a failure... Without relocating the tank I was looking at the possibility of doing a radius arm setup on a longer arm... but if there is hope to move the tank that would open up the possibilities greatly.
Anyhow, refreshing to see your build thread is still active and going man, keep it up!
I love the idea of a 4 link rear, and if you look up Dirt Daily pond scum 4runner on youtube, if you have a wide enough rear axle, you can keep some of the same 4Runner link mounts and triangulate the uppers and the lowers. What keeps me from doing this on mine is I think I want to keep the oem Toyota tank for reliability and reduced fuel starvation issues at steep inclines. Either the 4R tank or the smaller FJ tank raised up 1.5", my bodylift amount, should help a lot and is pretty much free. That said who knows what I'll end up doing if anything. I don't like swing arms, and with my huge spare tire in the cab a rear full-size fuel tank probably won't fit without losing even more cargo storage (my sleeping platform) or ground clearance.
__________________
2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
I think I'll have to pass on getting a CNC plasma torch for now. I don't have the room or 220v outlet, and I don't want to have my grandpa store it for me at his shop, it's already pretty full.
But as far as good news I think I'll take some measurements and start designing a better LT kit for my truck this winter. I'll coin it MZLT, (my initials lmao). Similar to RCLT, but I don't know about needing a full fabricated spindle; double shear steering and gusseting the stock spindle should be enough for me. Unless I can get more ground clearance or need to change the steering arm geometry for a LC200 steering rack.
I'll design it using 3D CAD, my full time job, and have it all laser cut at a local fab shop and I'll mig weld it. Trying to design it for maximum ground clearance, push the tire forward +2", +3.5" length, minimal bump steer and camber change throughout the travel, and max strength within reason. Wish me luck, it should be a fun learning process.
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
Still need to add shock mounts, finish the backside, add internal gusseting that slots into the top and bottom plates, and clean up bushing/uniball mounting.
And UCA.
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
I'm at a design crossroad with my LCA. Should I make the lower edge a welded joint or a bend in the sheet metal? According to this Camburg video, a broke edge eliminates the chance of a weld cracking from hitting a rock. There are actually 4 good options:
-Inside corner joint. Where the lower plate overshoots the vertical plate 1/8"-1/4" and that lip gets welded. Like Total Chaos arms.
-Outside corner joint. The lower plate and horizontal plate meet together and get welded. Like most other aftermarket arms.
-Outside corner joint w/ doubler. Same as outside corner joint but with an added plate that wraps around the edge to protect it. The weld will have to lie flush for this to work well without a gap.
-Broke (bent) sheet. No weld
I think I might try to tig weld these arms, we'll see once I get more weld practice in.
__________________
2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
I'm at a design crossroad with my LCA. Should I make the lower edge a welded joint or a bend in the sheet metal? According to this Camburg video, a broke edge eliminates the chance of a weld cracking from hitting a rock. There are actually 4 good options:
-Inside corner joint. Where the lower plate overshoots the vertical plate 1/8"-1/4" and that lip gets welded. Like Total Chaos arms.
-Outside corner joint. The lower plate and horizontal plate meet together and get welded. Like most other aftermarket arms.
-Outside corner joint w/ doubler. Same as outside corner joint but with an added plate that wraps around the edge to protect it. The weld will have to lie flush for this to work well without a gap.
-Broke (bent) sheet. No weld
I think I might try to tig weld these arms, we'll see once I get more weld practice in.