I pinged the 4th gen jedi knight aha2988 about this, and figured I should post here also.

Here's my current setup: OME 885s + Toytec top out spacers = ~3.5 inches of lift up front. Toytec diff drop, LR ucas. With the truck jacked up all the way in the front and front wheels in full droop, if we rotate the wheels by hand, my passenger front wheel's CV binds just a tiny bit in one spot. We can roll right past the binding without much effort, but it does bind. The driver's wheel doesn't. We also noticed that even though I have the aftermarket LR UCAs, the UCAs make contact with my sturuts on full droop.

Question - Should I be worried about wheeling as is? The light binding can't be normal for lifted 4th gens, right? If so, what options do we have for aftermarket CVs? I searched the forums and only saw one company that makes them and they were $565 per side (!) If upgraded CVs aren't an option, should I take out the top out spacer and just drop the front back down by half to one inch or so?

Here are pics showing CV angle while just parked on level ground.



Here's the 1/2" Toytec top out spacer + OME 885.

I'm at around 3.5", order a diff drop. Solved my issue.

Drop differential, or smaller top spacer or non.

Had same problem with OME and put a 10mm top hat on to cure the driver lean. Went to full bind on all 3 points of CV while turning also.

I should have clarified. I'm already running a toytec diff drop.

I don't have a drop in mine, so if you wish not to have the bind due to of roadding and want to have the max lift height. I would crank the toytec's down just a little.

I am thinking the same. I added photos to show my setup and CV angles.

Aha2988 also responded to my PMs, I will post up his thoughts once I check with him to make sure he's OK with it.

I had a similar issue when I tried to put 1/2" spacer on top of my 885's + the 1/4" spacer on the driver side to fix the lean. I ended up pulling the 1/2" spacers out because my drivers side CV was binding at full droop. I did see one thread where someone milled a bit off the end of the inner CV cup to allow more angle if you're dead set on going that high. I'm not sure how others get away with it all the time but it didn't work for me either.

Are you running OEM CV's or aftermarket? Both my OEM CV's bind the same way when on the lift also at full droop, it is common for our trucks when lifted 3"+ That's why it's really not recommended to lift the front more than 3"-3 1/2"

A few months ago i tore my driver side boot so i ordered a aftermarket Cardone select CV to replace it so i could have that one re packed and booted to be used as a spare. It turns out i can't run aftermarket CV's with the amount of lift i have about 3.25" because after i installed the aftermarket Cardone CV while on the lift at full droop it wouldn't even spin it just locked up, tried doing a test drive and it started binding just while making a simple left hand turn.So i had to swap it back to the OEM one after it got re built. When spinning the passenger side OEM CV it just blinded a little while spinning.

Some have said they'v run the aftermarket ones with no issues but after that experience i wouldn't risk it when lifted that much, especially if you plan on wheeling it. So i picked up a extra used OEM CV off ebay for $50 to keep as a spare.

You'll be fine wheeling like that, I've been wheeling mine set up like this for over a year now. It's all about how you wheel, just be easy on the skinny if you get bouncing on rocks with your wheels spinning like crazy cause when the catch that's when CV's snap, Most common way!