So I was in middle of nowhere the other day and my 4Runner would not start. I put the key in, all battery and dash lights are bright and all electronics inside such as radio and dome lights work great. I turn the key over and 'click, click, click, click, click'.

Someone eventually drove by and gave me a jump and it started right away. Battery terminals are super clean. Wiring looks clean. No corrosion that I could see.

Would this be a potential problem with wiring between solenoid and starter? Where should I start looking to fix this problem? So far, I've been able to restart the engine several times after I got home, but I know it's only a matter of time before it dies again.

My 2008 4Runner (v6) has 108,000 miles and up until last week, never anything wrong with it. Now I've this appear, as well as a hatch lock problem.

I say it's the battery.

you need a new battery. when was the last time did you replace it?

I had my starter cranking but would not start,lights all worked. What i found out is the computer would not turn on fuel pump,because voltage was not at the level fuel pump required. I bought new battery and everything again worked and engine started.
Not sure it's you'r problem but it was mine.

I would get the battery tested to start, most parts stores will do it for you for free; however my 04 had an alternator go out with 110,000. When it started to act up I thought it was the battery but it was just sluggish because the alternator wasn't kicking out enough amps. Also check the cable that connects the battery to the alternator and the connection at the alternator. Good luck with it.

2nd on the alternator test. Most likley a bad battery, but that could be caused by an alternator pushing out ac voltage and cooking the battery.

I once had a selinoid go bad (on a Chevy truck), battery and alt tested fine, but it would take 15 tries to get it to engage, and boosting helped. Possible you have the same issue, but unlikely. Try the other stuff first.

Test the battery, chances are it's on it's way out.

Also have the alternator tested to make sure it's outputting proper voltage & amperage.

Thanks everyone for the input. Greatly appreciate the help.

So I got out my multimeter and tested the battery. It's definitely on it's way out. Good call on that. So I did more research on batteries and found a lot of confusing info. Some people claim 35F yellow for Optima batteries, or 27F for Duralast and similar. Some say the terminals on the Optima batteries are opposite of other batteries, so you have to get the 'R' version where they are reversed, otherwise the wires won't reach. Not really sure what kind to get.

Optima website claims the following works

OPTIMA® Batteries 8040-218 D35 YELLOWTOP® Starting & Deep-Cycle Battery
OPTIMA® Batteries 8020-164 35 REDTOP® Starting Battery

For the D35, website claims I need a bottom height adapter.

I went by local AutoZone. They carry a lot of different duralast, but only a single model Optima yellow 34F. So then I went to the O'reilly and same exact selection there. So to get Optima I'll probably have to order one or buy somewhere online.

any battery is fine for as long as you have the correct orientation. I use exide battery and works well. I have the 27F.

I used to use DieHards until i had problems with Sears, won't go very far into this and their testing your system when you just want a NEW battery no warranty asked for.
Went to AutoZone guy could not find the correct battery,tried pawning off just any battery to get a sale.
Ended up going to WalMart they had the right battery,and a good warranty,have switched all my Autos and Trucks to WalMart batteries. Hey you are always near a WalMart and thats enough for me.

I actually used a Walmart battery and it lasted 5 years. Had to get the exide one since the one for my truck is not available. Ended up liking the exide one.

You only need an optima if you are doing some serious off roading. They are only needed for extreme vibration (drag car for example) or are going to get bashed around (heavy off roading). Otherwise you are waisting your money... I have always found interstate to be extremely reliable, there are cheaper units out there and most will be fine, but interstate has never let me down to date.

This guy/gal has it. There really is no reason for optima if the t4r is your DD and not seeing anything extreme. If you need CCA(Cold Crank Amps) that could be the most important factor depending on climate. (In central texas I don't care about CCA)

I usually go with the 5 year warranty. Autozone has a duralast for mine for 117.99.

Costco carries Interstate batteries now and I found them to be the lowest price with great warranty.

Autozone, O'Reilly's, Napa should have what you need. You can go to their websites and check store availability beforehand.