12-21-2015, 11:00 AM
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#1
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Any know braking issues with 03 model??
My left front is constantly dragging...... I have replaced the hose and caliper (caliper 2x).
Proportioning issue? How to diagnosis/test?
Thank you
Dave
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12-21-2015, 11:24 AM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videopuppy
My left front is constantly dragging...... I have replaced the hose and caliper (caliper 2x).
Proportioning issue? How to diagnosis/test?
Thank you
Dave
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Our cars seem to have reoccurring caliper issues.
See this thread for some more detailed INFO
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12-21-2015, 11:45 AM
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#3
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you would think the passengers side would be the one to seize more often due to that side of the road having all the dirt, etc...
strange only one caliper has an issue, repeatedly, and it would be a seizing issue. I will have to pull that caliper off and check the pistons again to verify.
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12-21-2015, 01:03 PM
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#4
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How do you know it's dragging and have you had the system bled guess scantool? Maybe an airpocket in the circuit for that caliper could be an issue.
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12-21-2015, 01:27 PM
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#5
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You can smell the brakes on that side, that rim is always black, and that one wears the fastest, really fast.
I have only bled them manually, and have done them many times, no air.
I will pull that caliper off and check if it's seizing up.
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12-21-2015, 01:54 PM
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#6
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I have found with my fronts that the wheel that gets black is the one doing all the work. The truck should also pull in the direction of that dirty wheel. Frozen caliper is on the clean side due to lack of performing its function !
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12-21-2015, 02:00 PM
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#7
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only issue i've had is losing slide pins off the front like nobody's business.
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12-21-2015, 02:03 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videopuppy
You can smell the brakes on that side, that rim is always black, and that one wears the fastest, really fast.
I have only bled them manually, and have done them many times, no air.
I will pull that caliper off and check if it's seizing up.
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That could mean that the driver's side is the only braking or that it's stuck in the clamped position. Keep in mind that they can stick in the "unapplied" and "applied" positions.
Also manually bleeding it isn't a bad thing and works most of the time, but lets say air got into the master cylinder unit itself and filled up the cavity for a solenoid, air compresses and fluid typically does not so that solenoid switching valve may not be functioning correctly and letting pressure bleed off properly.
Start with determining if it is in fact the left side seizing up again, or the right side not applying. Then we'll go from there. 
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12-21-2015, 02:04 PM
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#9
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I understand what your saying, but that is not the issue, it's not a hard drag, just enough to get the pads and rotor hot and smell badly, not enough for it to pull unless I have to use the brakes hard. I put brand new pads on 3 months ago and that wheel was into the rotor already, but the rest are okay..... it's dragging!
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12-21-2015, 02:06 PM
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#10
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I will look at it further, but since that side went thru pads sooooo fast I would say it's stuck in the engaged position (as you said).
Thanks for the replies!!
Last edited by videopuppy; 12-21-2015 at 02:10 PM.
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01-07-2016, 10:49 AM
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#11
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Caliper casting question
Is the difference between the WG and WH casting, piston / bore size? My calipers have been changed before, and not sure that the correct ones have been used, so is there anyway to verify what is supposed to be on there? Would it be a crucial difference? Can I tell be looking at the rear calipers for a Casting code?
Thanks
Dave
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01-07-2016, 11:17 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videopuppy
Is the difference between the WG and WH casting, piston / bore size? My calipers have been changed before, and not sure that the correct ones have been used, so is there anyway to verify what is supposed to be on there? Would it be a crucial difference? Can I tell be looking at the rear calipers for a Casting code?
Thanks
Dave
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Yes, different sizes for different wheels, base/SR5/limited models.... 16 vs 17 inch rims
The calipers on the back are smaller and can't be used to check. You might be able to gain access by turning the wheel crawling under the car to check(providing there is no rust). Of course block the car with some wood, pull hand brake etc while going under the car. I guess if they are clearly different sizes then its wrong.
Yes I think its very important they are the same size.... you want it to be balanced braking.
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01-07-2016, 11:30 AM
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#13
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I have an SR5, 17" Factory rims.... I'm pretty sure it should have the WG, but that is the smaller 319mm, and the WH is the 338mm, according to Rock Auto's listings.
I will crawl under later and check both calipers, maybe my misbehaving one is the incorrect casting. That would be nice, easy remedy.
I think you can go by rotor diameter to determine this also?
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01-07-2016, 11:47 AM
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#14
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After re-reading the Rock Auto listings, it looks like the 319 and 338, duh, were rotor sizes for the caliper listings, so I think I can also determine/verify the calipers by the rotor size.
Sound correct?
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01-07-2016, 03:44 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videopuppy
After re-reading the Rock Auto listings, it looks like the 319 and 338, duh, were rotor sizes for the caliper listings, so I think I can also determine/verify the calipers by the rotor size.
Sound correct?
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Yes.
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