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Old 04-16-2018, 02:32 PM #31
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Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc View Post
That's weird... I don't know if you can actually swap the connector and/or have it set up in reverse...

The only thing I can think of is that the motor/actuator isn't timed correctly. I can't seem to get my pictures from photobucket from all my older threads and I'm not payning those sharks...

But if you can get the actuator off you can run it in your hand and then carefully re-time the door (just be careful not to force the door too much.)
aha, so i have found the problem!.
the servo arm jumped out of its track . similar thing has happened to me in the past and i was able to push the arm back, now i am trying and its impossible,

attached are the pictures, in the schematic you attached earlier, is it possible to remove the complete airbox i circled in blue, without tearing the dash apart?
the major difficulty is not having enough room to push back the arm.

i also attached the pic of the arm and the track.
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Defrost problem.-air-servo-schematic-jpg  Defrost problem.-air-mixer-tracks-jpg 
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:41 PM #32
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@earthrealm What I would try to do is get the actuator off the box and then see if you can GENTLY pull the arm back over the slot in the air door lever. If you can't you might be able to loosen that gold screw after you have the actuator off to get some wiggle room to do so.

Usually you can't get the blower housing assembly off the main HVAC box without it on a bench because of clips and screws on the backside. I don't remember how it is for a 4th gen, but most of the other Toyota's I have done have been this way.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:52 AM #33
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@earthrealm What I would try to do is get the actuator off the box and then see if you can GENTLY pull the arm back over the slot in the air door lever. If you can't you might be able to loosen that gold screw after you have the actuator off to get some wiggle room to do so.

Usually you can't get the blower housing assembly off the main HVAC box without it on a bench because of clips and screws on the backside. I don't remember how it is for a 4th gen, but most of the other Toyota's I have done have been this way.
i didnt have to do all that, had a clue, and decided to use a longer studier rod to pry the actuator arm while using my fingers to turn the tracks from the inside, it worked perfectly, and while testing the arm went off the tracks again.

so i discovered it appears to be a design mechanism to prevent the motor from burning out or breaking the arm, once it meets any resistance on the tracks, it will jump off track.
below is the simple tool i used..lol

also because i left the cables unplugged throughout the night, when i started the truck this morning, the check engine ,vsc, trac and other lights came on..i was thinking i would need to do a ZPC, but all the lights went off, on my 4th start-drive cycle
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Defrost problem.-img_20180417_152114-jpg 
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Old 04-17-2018, 06:19 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthrealm View Post
i didnt have to do all that, had a clue, and decided to use a longer studier rod to pry the actuator arm while using my fingers to turn the tracks from the inside, it worked perfectly, and while testing the arm went off the tracks again.

so i discovered it appears to be a design mechanism to prevent the motor from burning out or breaking the arm, once it meets any resistance on the tracks, it will jump off track.
below is the simple tool i used..lol

also because i left the cables unplugged throughout the night, when i started the truck this morning, the check engine ,vsc, trac and other lights came on..i was thinking i would need to do a ZPC, but all the lights went off, on my 4th start-drive cycle
So are you saying that it's still not working?

What is causing the resistance that's making it jump off?
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:27 PM #35
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Originally Posted by earthrealm View Post
i didnt have to do all that, had a clue, and decided to use a longer studier rod to pry the actuator arm while using my fingers to turn the tracks from the inside, it worked perfectly, and while testing the arm went off the tracks again.

so i discovered it appears to be a design mechanism to prevent the motor from burning out or breaking the arm, once it meets any resistance on the tracks, it will jump off track.
below is the simple tool i used..lol

also because i left the cables unplugged throughout the night, when i started the truck this morning, the check engine ,vsc, trac and other lights came on..i was thinking i would need to do a ZPC, but all the lights went off, on my 4th start-drive cycle
Sounds like the actuator is out of time then. I would just unscrew the actuator and have it move from one setting to the other, then reinstall it in that setting (i.e. turn the recirculation on, let the actuator settle to it's intended setting, install actuator in recirculation mode).

I've had to do that once or twice on other vehicles.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:01 AM #36
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So are you saying that it's still not working?

What is causing the resistance that's making it jump off?
My hand was in the way..preventing the door from opening..that was the resistance that made it go off track again.
But since i had my study tool..it was a simple fix again.
Everything is working ok now..airflow has increased back to normal and i can use my usual airflow #1 or #2..unlike then twas only airflow #3 that was able to push out a decent amount of air.
Also no more exhaust fumes enter the cabin.
@BlackWorksInc ...thnks for the tips.didnt hv to do all that.everything is ok now
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Old 11-25-2019, 12:39 PM #37
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I'd take it back to the shop that did the evaporator and have them look at it on their time. Something wasn't connected properly or something else, but that's why they have warranty on their work.
Similar problem. Had the evap core and heater core replaced at beginning of summer and all "seemed" to work well until this morning when for the first time I needed to defog the front window. All the control lights work and I have air blowing from the side vents toward the windows, but I have zero flow on the windshield. The diagram shows a distribution box for defrost that suggests windshield and side vents both flow from that box. How could there be flow to the side vents and not the windshield, or is maybe the side vent flow just the normal HVAC system and not necessarily from the defrost system? I'll take it back to the shop that did the cores, but I'd like to hear your opinion beforehand. This has to be fixed soon; I was "blind" this morning because I drive due east to get to work and couldn't see a thing with the bright sun on my foggy window.
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Old 11-25-2019, 08:39 PM #38
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Similar problem. Had the evap core and heater core replaced at beginning of summer and all "seemed" to work well until this morning when for the first time I needed to defog the front window. All the control lights work and I have air blowing from the side vents toward the windows, but I have zero flow on the windshield. The diagram shows a distribution box for defrost that suggests windshield and side vents both flow from that box. How could there be flow to the side vents and not the windshield, or is maybe the side vent flow just the normal HVAC system and not necessarily from the defrost system? I'll take it back to the shop that did the cores, but I'd like to hear your opinion beforehand. This has to be fixed soon; I was "blind" this morning because I drive due east to get to work and couldn't see a thing with the bright sun on my foggy window.
UPDATE: The side vent flow is only coming from the larger regular system section and not the smaller defrost section on top, so there's no flow through the defrost system at all, in spite of having set the fan on high. Actually, with the fan running on lower auto setting, the fan does notch up two speeds when I push the defrost button, so everything seems to work except the distribution system. With defrost on, I still get full glow from center and side vents (except the small side defrost vents.

There must be a servo not working to redirect the air for defrost. Can anyone describe where that servo is?

Thanks
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Old 12-14-2019, 05:10 PM #39
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same prolem occured again, could not recall what i did the last time.. searched out this thread, and was ale to pry the actuator ack onto its tracks in under 3mins. nice!
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