01-28-2016, 12:54 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
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Real Name: Steve
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 103
Real Name: Steve
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Will this lift clear my garage?
I am wanting to go a smidge higher on my lift but am getting a little close to the garage door mechanism in my low ceiling. I think it will fit but wanted a second opinion as I like keeping my truck in the garage when its 0 degrees out there. I have about 3 and 1/4 inches of room to work with before the roof rack hits parts of the garage door mechanism on the ceiling.
Current setup: Bilstein 5100 at .85 up front, 265/65/17 tires.
Planned setup: Bilstein notched up to 1.75, add 1.5 rear spacer, 265/70/17 tires.
I calculate I'll gain .5 on the tires and 1.5 for the spacer, so I'm at 2 for the roof rack clearance.
Will this plus the front lift still keep the top of the vehicle within my 3 inch limit? I know the front lift is usually double what you put in there, but I only care about measuring the roof of the truck and not the wheel well clearance.
Thanks!
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2006 Sport Edition V6 4WD
Bilsteins 5100,front at 1.75-FJ springs all round-Custom rear spacers-265/70/17 Cooper AT3s on FnX Pro Wheels-Rigid Industries Hood Scoop Light Bar-smoker's kit-HCF Delete-front window tint-LED interior-plasti dip emblems
2000 Desert Dune SR5 5-Speed 4WD Sold
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01-28-2016, 01:21 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: southeastern MA
Age: 57
Posts: 579
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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So sounds like for the front you'll add 1.8" (lets call it 2") + .5 =2.5" and in the back 1.5" + .5" = 2" higher than you are now.
Try this: put 2.5" of wood (or similar) in front of front tire, 2" in front of rears and drive up on it. Then check how much clearance you have left (do it slow & in 4Lo & have someone watch!)
Don't know if you get snow where you are but remember this: an issue I have is snow build up OUTSIDE the garage gets compacted and now I'm driving in higher that I normally would be. Does that make sense?
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1999 BMW M3 coupe(E36) & 2005 V8 sport 4X4 black: ARB bull bar with 4 hella 500s,backup camera in spoiler,VSC off, springs:Tacoma w/ toytec(1/2"Fr) & FJ w/ daystar(1.5"R) spacers,Bora .75" front & Spidertrax 1.25" rear spacers,swaybar bushings upgrade,Stoptech rotors,SS brake lines,RCI Metalworks skids (front, trans.,transfer), Volant CAI,DT shorties w/ Dirty Deeds exhaust,fully soundproofed,Rostra seat heaters,HID (lows),HIR (highs),running board lights (added),aux reverse lights,2006+ tail lights,rear fog mod (tail, brake, directional OR rear fogs),Scion T1819,LED int. lights, key reminder diabled, Land cruiser steering wheel,rear window dog barrier, vent visors, Ultraguage, Enkei Deep Six 20" wheels for summer, factory sport wheels with A/Ts, FJ cruiser wheels with winter tires
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01-28-2016, 01:01 PM
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#3
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 103
Real Name: Steve
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 103
Real Name: Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSt4r
So sounds like for the front you'll add 1.8" (lets call it 2") + .5 =2.5" and in the back 1.5" + .5" = 2" higher than you are now.
Try this: put 2.5" of wood (or similar) in front of front tire, 2" in front of rears and drive up on it. Then check how much clearance you have left (do it slow & in 4Lo & have someone watch!)
Don't know if you get snow where you are but remember this: an issue I have is snow build up OUTSIDE the garage gets compacted and now I'm driving in higher that I normally would be. Does that make sense?
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Makes sense to me! Great idea with the wood blocks- I'll give it a go...SLOWLY
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2006 Sport Edition V6 4WD
Bilsteins 5100,front at 1.75-FJ springs all round-Custom rear spacers-265/70/17 Cooper AT3s on FnX Pro Wheels-Rigid Industries Hood Scoop Light Bar-smoker's kit-HCF Delete-front window tint-LED interior-plasti dip emblems
2000 Desert Dune SR5 5-Speed 4WD Sold
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01-28-2016, 03:51 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: US
Posts: 259
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: US
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSt4r
Don't know if you get snow where you are but remember this: an issue I have is snow build up OUTSIDE the garage gets compacted and now I'm driving in higher that I normally would be. Does that make sense?
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This just happened to me with the recent snow storm. There are now marks on top of my factory roof rack from the wood at the top of my garage door opening.
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2008 4Runner SR5 4.0 V6 4x4
Toytec Boss Suspension System with 2.5 Series Performance Coilovers; Skyjacker Extended Rear Sway Bar Endlinks; Ebay Uniball UCAs; Cooper Discoverer AT3s LT265/70/17; URD MAF Cal; URD Stainless 3" Mark3 Exhaust; aFe Stage-2 Pro DRY S Cold Air Intake; Black Headlight Mod; 5000K HID in Low Beams; 3000K HID in Fogs; 9011 HIR in High Beams; Weathertech in channel visors; 20% tint on front and over factory tint; 5% eyebrow on windshield; Plastidipped grill, badges, rear bar, wheels, etc.
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01-28-2016, 05:23 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Jan 2014
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I say go for it. It'll work!
If it doesn't you can always just put the old parts back in.
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2008 T4R Limited 4WD V8 | Stock Rims | Michelin 270/70-18 LTX M/S 2
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01-28-2016, 05:47 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Hawley, PA
Age: 72
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scd969
Makes sense to me! Great idea with the wood blocks- I'll give it a go...SLOWLY
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A good idea, but if you want to make sure you don't get any scratches/damage to roof, try putting the wood blocks on the top of the vehicle. If you stand a 2x4 on end, cut to the length of the amount of lift you want to try, if they hit they will only fall over with out doing any damage.
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I can Explain it to you, I can't Understand it for you.
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01-28-2016, 06:05 PM
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#7
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 103
Real Name: Steve
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 103
Real Name: Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechWrench
A good idea, but if you want to make sure you don't get any scratches/damage to roof, try putting the wood blocks on the top of the vehicle. If you stand a 2x4 on end, cut to the length of the amount of lift you want to try, if they hit they will only fall over with out doing any damage.
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I like this as well, even easier! - I guess I am wondering how big to cut the wood block? Would it just be the 2 inches I get from the rear spacer and tires or is there some weird trig problem for factoring the height of the roof rack as affected by the lift to the front wheel...
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2006 Sport Edition V6 4WD
Bilsteins 5100,front at 1.75-FJ springs all round-Custom rear spacers-265/70/17 Cooper AT3s on FnX Pro Wheels-Rigid Industries Hood Scoop Light Bar-smoker's kit-HCF Delete-front window tint-LED interior-plasti dip emblems
2000 Desert Dune SR5 5-Speed 4WD Sold
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01-28-2016, 06:22 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Colorado
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Real Name: Ron
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It won't hit, not with the numbers you are giving. No part of the roof rack will go up more than amount of the lift. Directly over the rear wheels it will go up the amount of the rear lift. Directly over the frnt axle the vehicle will raise the amount of the front lift. In between the axles the roof rack will increase in height by an amount between the front and rear lfts, depending how close you are to one axle or the other.
I'd explain it better but I'm on a mobile device without a real keyboard.
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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