Fuse for the back door ECU is located in the fuse block that is under the hood. It is a 10 Amp fuse labled ECU-B. (ECU back door).

Hmm pulled fuse no change ...?... Any way to manually open the rear lift gate from inside ?

Yes, remove the small plasitic cover in the back door, cut through the film plastic moisture barrier or lift it out of the way, then remove the cover off the side of the latch assembly (small white cover on the left side, pull up and out to the left). You will find two levers under the cover. Pull up on the one to the rear of the vehicle.

I think I know what you mean but pics would be really helpful.

Pictures are here

Huge thanks Blacklabs !! I crawled by big ass (6'3" 275) up in the cargo area this afternoon and found the lever to release and voila it opened( then I rolled out) lol I then sprayed the levers and anything else around them with penetrating lube spray closed it and said a prayer , what d'ya know it opened , repeated 3-4 times then.... Yup it hung up hit the release switch again and it opened , so it's at least intermittent at this point.
Thanks again. I see a switch with motor assembly order in my future.

I'm having the same issue, however additionally my rear window will not roll up or down after the battery reset (thanks for the ECU B tip, by the way!) neither from the remote fob or the button on the console.

Am I looking at something in addition to the lock motor assembly?

Also, while I'm thinking about "things that need fixin' on the 4Runner", every now and then the driver's side window won't "auto down" or "auto-up" when I hit the button on the door; I have to hold the button up or down to get it to go fully up or fully down...

Just an FYI, anytime you disconnect the battery or it is completely discharged, after reconnecting or charging the battery you have to "normalize" the auto up an down feature to get it to work properly on the driver's window, the rear window and if you have one the sunroof window, look in your owner's manual under "Power Window Switches" or similar and it will tell you how to do this, but in short you roll down the window halfway and then roll it back up until it's completely closed but hold the switch in the up position for several seconds before releasing it and that should normalize the auto up and down feature, for the rear window this has to be done using the dash switch, but do the driver's window first and then go to the other window/s to normalize them.

I know you're saying that you can get the rear window to work at all, but if you do the driver's window first that may get the rear window dash switch to work so you can normalize it.

Also until you "normalize" the windows, the window/s "jamb/pinch" prevention feature will not work either so be cautious that no one has their fingers caught in the windows when rolling them up or it could severely damage their finger/s, and also the rear window wiper usually will not work until the rear window is normalized properly.

I have replaced the mechanisms and reset the ECU-B and the door won't open, does anyone have ideas

Hey CGJGNGEG,

Having the same issue. I've replace the regulator & motor on my 5th gen. Then I've reset the ECU but it's not working anymore. What was the solution in your case? Thanks!

Hi all,

my tailgate hasn't been functioning for months and I finally took a day to try and figure it out. This is the first/only thread I've found with the exact same scenario as mine (will open once/twice after a battery disconnect, once I have it open I can quickly close it and hear the motor actuate and then re-open but if I close it for longer than a few seconds there's a second motor sound and then it won't re-open).

I sprayed the whole thing good with penetrating fluid and even had it working well for about a half hour after reassembling and disconnecting/reconnecting battery. And now it's back to how it was. I went to Advanced and pulled error code B2215 - BACK DOOR CLOSER SWITCH MALFUNCTION.

I found this manual for troubleshooting - https://f01.justanswer.com/topdogpet..._B2215_002.pdf - but I'm quite illiterate with cars and mainly don't know what it's asking me to plug into the terminals or how to check continuity, etc.

Would appreciate any help greatly.

I have come across a few threads here on problems with the rear hatch. Here is a link to a YouTube video that shows you how to open up that area and get at the components.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSNM...ist=LL&index=3

If you're able to make the hatch work sometimes I would guess that it's the ECU, which is easy to get to. I have a 99 Sienna that had problems with the power door. It acted up for a couple of years (not opening, not closing, reversing on its own, etc.) and I replaced the ECU and it worked fine after that (3 years). Turns out there was a defect in the 98-2000 ECUs. I found a used 2001 ECU replacement on eBay for a fraction of the cost of a new one. It's been 3 years now with no problems.

Is the ECU the entire locking assembly as seen here? Rear Tailgate Actuator Door Latch Lock fit 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner 69110-35090 | eBay


Or is it a different part?

It's a different part. The ECU is the electronic control unit. It's the electrical part that controls the defroster, wiper and rear window. Your image is showing the mechanical part for the door latch.

Here's on on eBay
Toyota 4Runner 2003-2009 Tailgate Liftgate Multiplex Control Module 89222-35010 | eBay

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Wouldn't the fact that my window, wiper and sometimes kinda door motor still work make it seem like it isn't the ECU?

Very genuine question on my end as I'm pretty oblivious to all of this.