03-17-2016, 10:37 AM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2015
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Real Name: Larry
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Join Date: May 2015
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Real Name: Larry
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Changed the spark plugs last night
While on lunch yesterday I decided to buy some Denso spark plugs (OEM)# K20HR-U11...Watched somebody's video on Youtube and attempted to swap them out last night.
Holy Christ were the old ones in there good, I swear at one point I thought I was going to turn the socket and have the old plug just spin in place. (there was definitely no anti seize used here) I was nervous the entire time...only one came out with very little effort.
The whole process only took about an hour and a half. As I replaced them I put them in order so I can take pics and show you folks the shape they were in... They were the same model number that I put in but who knows how long they were in there. I bought it with 118,000 miles on it and now have a hair over 130,000.... I'll post some pics tonight
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2007 4RUNNER LIMITED 4.0 V6
DRIFTWOOD PEARL
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03-17-2016, 11:51 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Colorado
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Real Name: Ron
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
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The key to getting plugs out of an aluminum head w/o damage is patience. As soon as it starts binding up, reverse your ratchet and turn it back in a turn or so, or as far as it will go easily. Then back it out once more until it binds up again. Keep doing that, and little by little it will continue to come out further until it releases and comes out all the way. I've spent 10-15 minutes working out a single plug on my '94 3vze, but ultimately it came out clean.
If you just force it you run the real risk of stripping the threads out of the head, and then you have a thread repair job on your hands. The steel plug will always win in a battle with the aluminum head.
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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03-17-2016, 12:18 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: it rains a lot here
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PICS!
Let's see how that infamous #6 plug looks.
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5th gen inbound
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03-17-2016, 12:41 PM
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#4
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Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Connecticut
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Real Name: Larry
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Join Date: May 2015
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I hear ya about taking your time...I almost sh*t my pants when I experienced the first tough plug...I've changed plugs many times but never experienced anything like this
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonJR
The key to getting plugs out of an alusminum head w/o damage is patience. As soon as it starts binding up, reverse your ratchet and turn it back in a turn or so, or as far as it will go easily. Then back it out once more until it binds up again. Keep doing that, and little by little it will continue to come out further until it releases and comes out all the way. I've spent 10-15 minutes working out a single plug on my '94 3vze, but ultimately it came out clean.
If you just force it you run the real risk of stripping the threads out of the head, and then you have a thread repair job on your hands. The steel plug will always win in a battle with the aluminum head.
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2007 4RUNNER LIMITED 4.0 V6
DRIFTWOOD PEARL
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Xenon Depot 4300k Philips HID Kit
Weathertech floor mats
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03-18-2016, 10:06 AM
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#5
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Join Date: May 2015
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Here are the plugs...
I have them positioned as if you're facing the engine
How many miles do you think these were in???
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEL
PICS!
Let's see how that infamous #6 plug looks.
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2007 4RUNNER LIMITED 4.0 V6
DRIFTWOOD PEARL
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Xenon Depot 4300k Philips HID Kit
Weathertech floor mats
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03-18-2016, 10:09 AM
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#6
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Passenger Side (Left is front of engine)
Drivers Side (Left is front of engine)
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2007 4RUNNER LIMITED 4.0 V6
DRIFTWOOD PEARL
-----------------------------------------------------
Xenon Depot 4300k Philips HID Kit
Weathertech floor mats
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03-18-2016, 10:26 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Springfield, MO
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If you had Densos in one bank and NGKs in the other, they are the original plugs.
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2004 SR5 4x4 V6 - With New Head Gaskets
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03-18-2016, 10:44 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Real Name: John
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Those have never been replaced, like
@ fdbyrne
said 2 different types because each side was produced in a different location. Here were my originals at 90K miles:
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2004 V6 2wd Sport - BFG Mud T/A KM 255/75/17, Bilstein 5100’s: front FJ coils, 4" lift spindles set @ .85, rear Metal Tech LT MD coils, SS brake lines, Uniball UCAs, Spidertrax; K&N air filter w/ HCF delete, WeatherTech Liners, dual batteries w/ isolator, inverter w/ 110v outlets, on-board air, satellite radio, custom grill emblem and roof rack; Mods: auto headlights, aux remote reverse LED pods and GY6.35 50w reverse bulbs, rear camera, interior LEDs, VSC, 12v w/ added outlets and windows always on, DRL on/off w/ always on mode, fog/map light, key reminder, TPMS bypass, front wheel liner relocate; de-badged, mud flaps, running boards, resonator, Xreas, front/rear sway bar removed
Last edited by morphious; 03-18-2016 at 10:54 AM.
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03-18-2016, 10:53 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcbjr77
While on lunch yesterday I decided to buy some Denso spark plugs (OEM)# K20HR-U11...Watched somebody's video on Youtube and attempted to swap them out last night.
Holy Christ were the old ones in there good, I swear at one point I thought I was going to turn the socket and have the old plug just spin in place. (there was definitely no anti seize used here) I was nervous the entire time...only one came out with very little effort.
The whole process only took about an hour and a half. As I replaced them I put them in order so I can take pics and show you folks the shape they were in... They were the same model number that I put in but who knows how long they were in there. I bought it with 118,000 miles on it and now have a hair over 130,000.... I'll post some pics tonight
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I've heard NOT to use anti-seize on spark plug threads. Is that just an urban legend?
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03-18-2016, 10:53 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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@ lcbjr77
I don't want to say that you have a problem, but I would be a little concerned about the scaling on your #6 plug. If you look at mine all 6 plugs look about the same, in reviewing yours #6 appears to have build up which could be coolant residue. Something you may want to just keep an eye on. -UPDATE- I just realized you have an 07' so it should have the updated head gasket so this could be nothing at all and simply a coincidence.
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2004 V6 2wd Sport - BFG Mud T/A KM 255/75/17, Bilstein 5100’s: front FJ coils, 4" lift spindles set @ .85, rear Metal Tech LT MD coils, SS brake lines, Uniball UCAs, Spidertrax; K&N air filter w/ HCF delete, WeatherTech Liners, dual batteries w/ isolator, inverter w/ 110v outlets, on-board air, satellite radio, custom grill emblem and roof rack; Mods: auto headlights, aux remote reverse LED pods and GY6.35 50w reverse bulbs, rear camera, interior LEDs, VSC, 12v w/ added outlets and windows always on, DRL on/off w/ always on mode, fog/map light, key reminder, TPMS bypass, front wheel liner relocate; de-badged, mud flaps, running boards, resonator, Xreas, front/rear sway bar removed
Last edited by morphious; 03-18-2016 at 11:16 AM.
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03-18-2016, 11:05 AM
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#11
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AE1M
I've heard NOT to use anti-seize on spark plug threads. Is that just an urban legend?
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I could be wrong, but I think the reason that people say not to use anti-seize is that it acts as a lubricant and makes it possible to overtighten the plugs without realizing it. I don't remember the exact torque spec for plugs but it's right around 15 foot pounds. 15 foot pounds comes a lot quicker on dry threads than it does on lubricated threads.
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2004 SR5 4x4 V6 - With New Head Gaskets
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03-18-2016, 03:12 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington, DC
Age: 39
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I just had my plugs replaced at 111k. The originals were in there and after doing the work, the tech told me the gaps were huge on the original plugs. He mentioned the new ones went in at .6 but the ones he took out were about .8 or more.
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03-18-2016, 03:18 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdbyrne
I could be wrong, but I think the reason that people say not to use anti-seize is that it acts as a lubricant and makes it possible to overtighten the plugs without realizing it. I don't remember the exact torque spec for plugs but it's right around 15 foot pounds. 15 foot pounds comes a lot quicker on dry threads than it does on lubricated threads.
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I have to ask.... 15 FOOT LBS? not 15 INCH LBS? I have to ask for that is a BIG difference. 15 inch LBS does seem pointless... but had to ask anyways.
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03-18-2016, 03:38 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHawks_12
I have to ask.... 15 FOOT LBS? not 15 INCH LBS? I have to ask for that is a BIG difference. 15 inch LBS does seem pointless... but had to ask anyways.
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Like I said, I was going from memory. I was only using that number because I didn't have my FSM handy. I just looked it up and I was close. It's 13 foot pounds for the V6.
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2004 SR5 4x4 V6 - With New Head Gaskets
Last edited by fdbyrne; 03-18-2016 at 03:46 PM.
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03-18-2016, 04:48 PM
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#15
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Member
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Join Date: May 2015
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
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Morphious...Thanks for sharing, have you had any issues with your head gasket... I was nervous until I saw your "Update"
Quote:
Originally Posted by morphious
@ lcbjr77
I don't want to say that you have a problem, but I would be a little concerned about the scaling on your #6 plug. If you look at mine all 6 plugs look about the same, in reviewing yours #6 appears to have build up which could be coolant residue. Something you may want to just keep an eye on. -UPDATE- I just realized you have an 07' so it should have the updated head gasket so this could be nothing at all and simply a coincidence.
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__________________
2007 4RUNNER LIMITED 4.0 V6
DRIFTWOOD PEARL
-----------------------------------------------------
Xenon Depot 4300k Philips HID Kit
Weathertech floor mats
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