03-30-2016, 04:13 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajone5
Did you need to do any modification of the eBay arms? I thought I heard there was some fitment issues.
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pretty much just put different sleeves from like allpro or camburg or shortened SPC ones.
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2004 white Limited v8 NOW WITH 35s Build Thread -toytec BOSS front set at 1.5" with 2" spacer and Metaltech LT rear -1" 4crawler BL. -Nitro 4.56 gears. -35x12.50r17 treadwright Guarddog MTs. -swaybars removed. -Ebay uniball UCAs. -RCI skids. -E-locker retrofit with 12voltguy panel and harness. -Shrockworks sliders. - body damage and the such
1989 DLX 4runner SAS BUILD
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03-30-2016, 04:15 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bruff
I did 1.5 in front and 2.5 rear.
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Re-looking at your sheet, I would suggest taking it to a different shop to get an alignment. Try to find one in your area with good reviews, not a "toe and go" type place. The reason I say taking it to a different shop is because I do not trust why they show your Caster in the Green and your spec range to only be between 0.3 and 1.8. The standard ranger for Caster on a 2wd 4Runner should be between 2.6 and 4.1 and 4wd varies slightly from those numbers but not much. The Camber and Toe number ranges on your sheet are within Factory spec, but again they changed the Caster spec numbers to show you green without telling you they were not within spec.
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2004 V6 2wd Sport - BFG Mud T/A KM 255/75/17, Bilstein 5100’s: front FJ coils, 4" lift spindles set @ .85, rear Metal Tech LT MD coils, SS brake lines, Uniball UCAs, Spidertrax; K&N air filter w/ HCF delete, WeatherTech Liners, dual batteries w/ isolator, inverter w/ 110v outlets, on-board air, satellite radio, custom grill emblem and roof rack; Mods: auto headlights, aux remote reverse LED pods and GY6.35 50w reverse bulbs, rear camera, interior LEDs, VSC, 12v w/ added outlets and windows always on, DRL on/off w/ always on mode, fog/map light, key reminder, TPMS bypass, front wheel liner relocate; de-badged, mud flaps, running boards, resonator, Xreas, front/rear sway bar removed
Last edited by morphious; 03-30-2016 at 04:22 PM.
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03-30-2016, 04:16 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bruff
any suggestions UCA wise? I havent ever looked into that at all.
Thanks for the feed back BTW
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if you're not gonna wheel it hard and want the most adjustment possible go with the SPC light racing UCAs. if youre planning to wheel it with any regularity and difficulty the go with either the camburg balljoint arms or any reputable builders of uniball arms (allpro, total chaos, camburg, rockman, icon) or you could try the Ebay uniballs that many of us are running, they do require you to replace the bushing sleeve to get proper fitment. however its pretty easy to do and only cost ~50 bucks to get the new ones from anyone pretty much
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2004 white Limited v8 NOW WITH 35s Build Thread -toytec BOSS front set at 1.5" with 2" spacer and Metaltech LT rear -1" 4crawler BL. -Nitro 4.56 gears. -35x12.50r17 treadwright Guarddog MTs. -swaybars removed. -Ebay uniball UCAs. -RCI skids. -E-locker retrofit with 12voltguy panel and harness. -Shrockworks sliders. - body damage and the such
1989 DLX 4runner SAS BUILD
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03-30-2016, 04:19 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajone5
Did you need to do any modification of the eBay arms? I thought I heard there was some fitment issues.
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Here is the easy fix:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2305518-post629.html
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2004 V6 2wd Sport - BFG Mud T/A KM 255/75/17, Bilstein 5100’s: front FJ coils, 4" lift spindles set @ .85, rear Metal Tech LT MD coils, SS brake lines, Uniball UCAs, Spidertrax; K&N air filter w/ HCF delete, WeatherTech Liners, dual batteries w/ isolator, inverter w/ 110v outlets, on-board air, satellite radio, custom grill emblem and roof rack; Mods: auto headlights, aux remote reverse LED pods and GY6.35 50w reverse bulbs, rear camera, interior LEDs, VSC, 12v w/ added outlets and windows always on, DRL on/off w/ always on mode, fog/map light, key reminder, TPMS bypass, front wheel liner relocate; de-badged, mud flaps, running boards, resonator, Xreas, front/rear sway bar removed
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03-30-2016, 04:22 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bruff
I did 1.5 in front and 2.5 rear.
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Numbers backwards? Most do a larger lift in the front. A larger lift in the back will decrease caster.
I'm running 2.5" front, 1.5" rear and still have stock arms. My caster is ~1.8° on both sides. It doesn't feel loose/darty at highway speeds, but increasing the caster on mine would likely improve steering slightly. I feel like I could increase my caster with stock arms if I could find a good alignment tech. [Somebody know a good shop in the Seattle area that knows how to align a lifted ride?]
If you did mistype your lift numbers, you can get a better alignment with your stock arms. Prob. not 3-4° but still enough to stabilize it at freeway speeds.
Common UCA brands: Total Chaos, Camburg, Icon (~$600-800)
Last edited by NinjaOne; 03-30-2016 at 04:24 PM.
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03-30-2016, 04:30 PM
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#21
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08' 4Runner SR5 4WD V6 Level 8 MK6 wheels//Kenwood DDX9903s//JL 10W3v3 on 500/1//LEDs//ICON Ext Coilovers FR//Metaltech LT Rear Springs w/ Dobinson LT Shocks//JBA UCAs//spidertrax//5th gen brakes in front//295/70/17 Cooper Maxx//SS brake lines// http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ld-thread.html
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03-30-2016, 07:47 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfry008
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How do these fit up? Any issues with hardware? Replacing sleeves/bushings?
EDIT -- I see the recommended bushing/sleeve replacement in the link.
NEW Question -- Do these arms have the caster (usually 2 deg) built in?
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2004 4Runner SR5 V8 Pacific Blue
Toytec 3" Lift | ICON II Rear Springs | JBA UCAs | eBay 1.25" Spacers | TIN Backup Lights | Full Interior LED Swap (Blue/White) | AEM Filter | Full Exterior LED swap | Black eBay Headlights | Westin Ultimate Bull Bar | Weather Tech Floor Mats | Blaupunkt New Jersey 220 Head Unit | HCF Delete | Fog Light Mod | Tube Steps
Last edited by cajone5; 03-30-2016 at 08:22 PM.
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03-30-2016, 09:36 PM
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#23
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The fitment was very good IMO. I had no issues, the sleeves and poly bushings fit well.
I'm not sure exactly how much added caster they give you. You could email the seller and possibly find out.
It's crazy how similar they are to the camberg UCAs.
The link in my signature is my build thread with more info.
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08' 4Runner SR5 4WD V6 Level 8 MK6 wheels//Kenwood DDX9903s//JL 10W3v3 on 500/1//LEDs//ICON Ext Coilovers FR//Metaltech LT Rear Springs w/ Dobinson LT Shocks//JBA UCAs//spidertrax//5th gen brakes in front//295/70/17 Cooper Maxx//SS brake lines// http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ld-thread.html
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05-04-2016, 02:40 PM
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#24
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caster angle
I got my alignment done and the tech says the lower cam bolts are seized.
I get 1.8 left front and .4 right front. Any idea how to fix?
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05-04-2016, 02:43 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoguri
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get new cambolts and most likely lower control arms. youre way low for caster, i cant even imagine how that drives.
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2004 white Limited v8 NOW WITH 35s Build Thread -toytec BOSS front set at 1.5" with 2" spacer and Metaltech LT rear -1" 4crawler BL. -Nitro 4.56 gears. -35x12.50r17 treadwright Guarddog MTs. -swaybars removed. -Ebay uniball UCAs. -RCI skids. -E-locker retrofit with 12voltguy panel and harness. -Shrockworks sliders. - body damage and the such
1989 DLX 4runner SAS BUILD
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05-04-2016, 03:52 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoguri
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Replace cams and sleeves and bushings. Typically more cost efficient to replace the entire arm if you are paying a shop to do it. Bonus would be that you also get new lower balljoints (or just replace the arms yourself in a couple hours)
You could also just replace the arms yourself, under $300 for a set off RockAUto or other places. (+another alignment)
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05-04-2016, 04:59 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruzadoBlanco
if you're not gonna wheel it hard and want the most adjustment possible go with the SPC light racing UCAs. if youre planning to wheel it with any regularity and difficulty the go with either the camburg balljoint arms or any reputable builders of uniball arms (allpro, total chaos, camburg, rockman, icon) or you could try the Ebay uniballs that many of us are running, they do require you to replace the bushing sleeve to get proper fitment. however its pretty easy to do and only cost ~50 bucks to get the new ones from anyone pretty much
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I was wondering the same thing. It almost looks like they ran the alignment #'s off a Taco vs. a T4R. The last time I had an alignment done my 2004 (4th gen) spec was 2.5-4. I'm at .5 right now and I'm getting ready to purchase Cambutg BJ UCA's which will add 2.5 degrees of correction hopefully getting mine to 3. When I had my Daystar 2 1/2 1 1/2 I was able to get castor at 2.5 which was fine. FWIW
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1st was an 87, 2nd was a 95 and 4th gen is a 04 V8 Sport. OME 885/Toytec RCC2.0HD, SPC UCA's, RCI Sliders with top tread, Airlift 1000, and BFG ATKO2's - 265/70/17's. Tekonsha brake controller, EBay interior LED's, and Kenwood DDX 594 radio. Yakima roof rack for all seasons up top.
Build thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ld-thread.html
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05-07-2016, 11:19 AM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaOne
Replace cams and sleeves and bushings. Typically more cost efficient to replace the entire arm if you are paying a shop to do it. Bonus would be that you also get new lower balljoints (or just replace the arms yourself in a couple hours)
You could also just replace the arms yourself, under $300 for a set off RockAUto or other places. (+another alignment)
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Thanks for your answer. Also, what if I just get new uca's and just leave those lca as-is?
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05-07-2016, 02:05 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoguri
Thanks for your answer. Also, what if I just get new uca's and just leave those lca as-is?
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Starting with the UCA's would make sense, especially if your LCA cams aren't frozen and your LCA bushings are in good condition.
Looks like you got 3"-3.5" of lift? Aftermarket UCA should fix that castor and tighten up the steering nicely.
Also, I looked at your lift pictures, looks to me almost to the point where you might want to consider a diff drop if you wheel.
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05-14-2016, 05:25 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaOne
Starting with the UCA's would make sense, especially if your LCA cams aren't frozen and your LCA bushings are in good condition.
Looks like you got 3"-3.5" of lift? Aftermarket UCA should fix that castor and tighten up the steering nicely.
Also, I looked at your lift pictures, looks to me almost to the point where you might want to consider a diff drop if you wheel.
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I see. I plan on getting UCA. Either spc or jba.
I set the bilsteins at 1.75 but the result was almost a 5 inch lift! Most likely because stock springs sagged. I measured 33 to fender and now sits 38 all around. Thanks for your reply. Really appreciate it.
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