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Old 03-30-2016, 04:13 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajone5 View Post
Did you need to do any modification of the eBay arms? I thought I heard there was some fitment issues.
pretty much just put different sleeves from like allpro or camburg or shortened SPC ones.
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:15 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bruff View Post
I did 1.5 in front and 2.5 rear.
Re-looking at your sheet, I would suggest taking it to a different shop to get an alignment. Try to find one in your area with good reviews, not a "toe and go" type place. The reason I say taking it to a different shop is because I do not trust why they show your Caster in the Green and your spec range to only be between 0.3 and 1.8. The standard ranger for Caster on a 2wd 4Runner should be between 2.6 and 4.1 and 4wd varies slightly from those numbers but not much. The Camber and Toe number ranges on your sheet are within Factory spec, but again they changed the Caster spec numbers to show you green without telling you they were not within spec.
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Last edited by morphious; 03-30-2016 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:16 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bruff View Post
any suggestions UCA wise? I havent ever looked into that at all.

Thanks for the feed back BTW
if you're not gonna wheel it hard and want the most adjustment possible go with the SPC light racing UCAs. if youre planning to wheel it with any regularity and difficulty the go with either the camburg balljoint arms or any reputable builders of uniball arms (allpro, total chaos, camburg, rockman, icon) or you could try the Ebay uniballs that many of us are running, they do require you to replace the bushing sleeve to get proper fitment. however its pretty easy to do and only cost ~50 bucks to get the new ones from anyone pretty much
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:19 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajone5 View Post
Did you need to do any modification of the eBay arms? I thought I heard there was some fitment issues.
Here is the easy fix:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2305518-post629.html
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:22 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bruff View Post
I did 1.5 in front and 2.5 rear.
Numbers backwards? Most do a larger lift in the front. A larger lift in the back will decrease caster.

I'm running 2.5" front, 1.5" rear and still have stock arms. My caster is ~1.8° on both sides. It doesn't feel loose/darty at highway speeds, but increasing the caster on mine would likely improve steering slightly. I feel like I could increase my caster with stock arms if I could find a good alignment tech. [Somebody know a good shop in the Seattle area that knows how to align a lifted ride?]

If you did mistype your lift numbers, you can get a better alignment with your stock arms. Prob. not 3-4° but still enough to stabilize it at freeway speeds.

Common UCA brands: Total Chaos, Camburg, Icon (~$600-800)
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Last edited by NinjaOne; 03-30-2016 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:30 PM #21
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2003 2009 Toyota 4Runner 2007 2014 FJ Cruiser Upper Control Arms 2WD 4WD | eBay

You can check out these. Very similar to the Camburg ball joint UCAs.
Attached Images
4th Gen T4R Walking/swaying at high speeds?-image-jpeg 
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:47 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfry008 View Post
2003 2009 Toyota 4Runner 2007 2014 FJ Cruiser Upper Control Arms 2WD 4WD | eBay

You can check out these. Very similar to the Camburg ball joint UCAs.
How do these fit up? Any issues with hardware? Replacing sleeves/bushings?

EDIT -- I see the recommended bushing/sleeve replacement in the link.

NEW Question -- Do these arms have the caster (usually 2 deg) built in?
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Last edited by cajone5; 03-30-2016 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:36 PM #23
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The fitment was very good IMO. I had no issues, the sleeves and poly bushings fit well.
I'm not sure exactly how much added caster they give you. You could email the seller and possibly find out.
It's crazy how similar they are to the camberg UCAs.
The link in my signature is my build thread with more info.
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Old 05-04-2016, 02:40 PM #24
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caster angle

I got my alignment done and the tech says the lower cam bolts are seized.
I get 1.8 left front and .4 right front. Any idea how to fix?

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Old 05-04-2016, 02:43 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoguri View Post
I got my alignment done and the tech says the lower cam bolts are seized.
I get 1.8 left front and .4 right front. Any idea how to fix?

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get new cambolts and most likely lower control arms. youre way low for caster, i cant even imagine how that drives.
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:52 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoguri View Post
I got my alignment done and the tech says the lower cam bolts are seized.
I get 1.8 left front and .4 right front. Any idea how to fix?

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Replace cams and sleeves and bushings. Typically more cost efficient to replace the entire arm if you are paying a shop to do it. Bonus would be that you also get new lower balljoints (or just replace the arms yourself in a couple hours)

You could also just replace the arms yourself, under $300 for a set off RockAUto or other places. (+another alignment)
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Old 05-04-2016, 04:59 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruzadoBlanco View Post
if you're not gonna wheel it hard and want the most adjustment possible go with the SPC light racing UCAs. if youre planning to wheel it with any regularity and difficulty the go with either the camburg balljoint arms or any reputable builders of uniball arms (allpro, total chaos, camburg, rockman, icon) or you could try the Ebay uniballs that many of us are running, they do require you to replace the bushing sleeve to get proper fitment. however its pretty easy to do and only cost ~50 bucks to get the new ones from anyone pretty much
I was wondering the same thing. It almost looks like they ran the alignment #'s off a Taco vs. a T4R. The last time I had an alignment done my 2004 (4th gen) spec was 2.5-4. I'm at .5 right now and I'm getting ready to purchase Cambutg BJ UCA's which will add 2.5 degrees of correction hopefully getting mine to 3. When I had my Daystar 2 1/2 1 1/2 I was able to get castor at 2.5 which was fine. FWIW
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Old 05-07-2016, 11:19 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaOne View Post
Replace cams and sleeves and bushings. Typically more cost efficient to replace the entire arm if you are paying a shop to do it. Bonus would be that you also get new lower balljoints (or just replace the arms yourself in a couple hours)

You could also just replace the arms yourself, under $300 for a set off RockAUto or other places. (+another alignment)
Thanks for your answer. Also, what if I just get new uca's and just leave those lca as-is?
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Old 05-07-2016, 02:05 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoguri View Post
Thanks for your answer. Also, what if I just get new uca's and just leave those lca as-is?
Starting with the UCA's would make sense, especially if your LCA cams aren't frozen and your LCA bushings are in good condition.

Looks like you got 3"-3.5" of lift? Aftermarket UCA should fix that castor and tighten up the steering nicely.

Also, I looked at your lift pictures, looks to me almost to the point where you might want to consider a diff drop if you wheel.
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Old 05-14-2016, 05:25 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaOne View Post
Starting with the UCA's would make sense, especially if your LCA cams aren't frozen and your LCA bushings are in good condition.

Looks like you got 3"-3.5" of lift? Aftermarket UCA should fix that castor and tighten up the steering nicely.

Also, I looked at your lift pictures, looks to me almost to the point where you might want to consider a diff drop if you wheel.
I see. I plan on getting UCA. Either spc or jba.

I set the bilsteins at 1.75 but the result was almost a 5 inch lift! Most likely because stock springs sagged. I measured 33 to fender and now sits 38 all around. Thanks for your reply. Really appreciate it.
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