@having fun

Not quite, it was for my prototype disconnecting sway bar set-up...

4th Gen Disconnecting Sway Bar Set-Up

Yeah, I think I seen that shot before. Was keeping up on the links you where trying to design due to I prefer to leave the bar on for the same purposes.
The only other thing I could think of is remove the bar and bump up the coil poundage to compensate for it. But I see your on a pretty stiff set already. About 100lbs more than mine.

Sorry to derail your thread; just have a question about these tabs. Can I bend them to "hug" the cams? Mine are bent open for some reason. And for some reason my fricken cam bolts keep coming loose. But that's for another thread. Just hoping I can bend them in to keep my alignment in check.

BlackWorks, I ran into this exact same problem a couple weekends ago when I installed my Fox 2.5 coilovers up front. Driver's side lower spring perch was touching the sway bar end. Passenger side had almost 1/4" clearance, and there was room between the bar's retainer collars for it to shift further to the passenger side.

I finished up the install and opted to not put the sway bar back. Can't say I loved driving around without it.

So a buddy and me put the bar into a big vise, then heated up the flat area just after where the bar starts to bend back towards the rear of the vehicle, and bent it outward by about 5/8" at the end link mounting point. Basically used a tape measure to get the end-to-end length between the end-link mounting holes and once it opened up 3/4 or so we let it cool. It will actually bend a little bit back to its original shape as it cools. Repainted it, reinstalled it and it fits perfect now.

I've heard a million conflicting opinions about heating and bending both swaybars, and suspension coils. I figure if it breaks (which to me seems HIGHLY unlikely), so what? It's not a critical item, as you can drive the truck safely without it, and it shouldn't be difficult to get a replacement.

Another thing that will help with clearance is if you have the energy suspension front sway bar bushings. The mounts are slotted and if you move them as far forward as possible before torqueing them down that will buy a bit more clearance at the bottom of the coilover.

So I chucked the bar up in a vise and used a giant pry bar to try and bend it out, I think I managed to get a total of 1/16" according to my tape measure. That should be enough for what I need, I hope. I also noticed one of the collars was loose so I tried to punch it tighter (doubt it will hold, but worth a shot). I then pushed the relocation brackets and sway bar brackets as far forward as I could after I centered the bar, seems to have given me a good amount of clearance for now; but time will tell.
@having fun

Still would like the measurements on the Tacoma bar, it seems my 4th gen 4WD bar is just a hair over 46" from the inside edge of the sway bar link bracket to the other.
@dkyleb

You can bend them, but it only works for so long... I'm running into the issue where mine have been bent back a few too many times and the cams are a bit worn. I have a feeling if I try to align the Caster/Camber again the tabs will bend too much or break on me at this point.

Another thing to keep in mind is to have those alignment cams should be torqued to about 100ft.lbs for the 4th gens; I thought I was torquing them enough before and that was what allowed them to slip when off-roading.

@BlackWorksInc I have mine off, for awhile now so it will be easy for comparisons.

I have the v6, are they the same for the v8? And mine measured approx. 46 3/8"
inside to inside.

What coil overs are those?

OverLand Warehouse 2.5" Diameter Suspension system (Basically the 2.5" Radflo kit you can get now)

Have you checked with the manufacture if they have a solution or a fix?

@pliance04

Well the fix is the relocation bracket that Overland Warehouse included in their lift kit (Radflo sells it as well) which pushes the sway bar further forward to clear the coilovers. I have that installed, it's not so much a failing of the lift kit as it is an unfortunate consequence of the sway bar being very tight fitting on our vehicles.

Keep in mind I've had the kit installed for about 4yrs or so now and have recently gone from 33's to 35's and as a result I bumped my Caster up higher than I had before, that may contribute to the situation as well as the fact it seems the sway bar got pushed around a bit before with my 33's (The relocation kit does allow the sway bar to move side to side a bit more than the factory location does.)

I wanna say I bent the driver's side of mine outward so that it measured 47 and some fraction from outside face to outside face of the sway bar link tab ends. Don't think I could have opened it up that far without heating it though. Fingers crossed, it still isn't broken yet. Haha

Pardon me if this sounds too primitive, but if your original concern was simply clearance, why not hit the SB with a grinder. The wall thickness looks to be plenty enough to handle a little shave. Just keep taking a little bit out until it quits squeaking.

This was going to be my alternate path. The area of the bar where it typically contacts coil-overs is not one which undergoes tremendous amounts of torsional stress. I'd go so far as to say you could easily grind away 1/8" on that inner surface without causing problems. Possibly even more.

The sway bar doesn't need very much clearance to avoid contact with the coil-overs. It took me a few times looking at it to realize the obvious; that the way the linkages are set up, the end of the sway bar moves in an almost identical path (direction and rate) as both the lower control arm, and the lower half of the coil-over. In other words, if clearance exists, it will exist by roughly the same amount through the entire path of suspension travel. Only exception to this would be if the entire sway bar somehow shifts laterally in its mounts, far enough to close the clearance gap at one side. This is what the retention collars on the bar are there to prevent.

In regards to grinding it, I thought about it... But then the bar now has about a 1/16-1/8" groove/scallop from where it's been scraping the spring so I didn't want to grind it too much more.

10-4. Hammers and grinders are my go-to solutions.