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Old 03-31-2016, 08:35 PM #1
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Sway Bar Rubbing Coilovers

So I think I've narrowed down the squeaking noise I've been having lately. At first I thought it could be the heims in the coilovers (still possible). But today I noticed that the sway bar is rubbing the edge of the coil. I've got a relocation kit installed, but it doesn't seem to be enough.

Anyone else run into this and/or have ideas?
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Old 03-31-2016, 08:52 PM #2
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Is the sway bar centered on your vehicle? Apparently not because its only rubbing on one side. My brother's FJ had this issue when he removed and reinstalled his, although it was more of a clank. It embarrassingly only made the clanking noise when we got to the off-road park.
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:55 PM #3
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That's possible as I noticed when I used to install and remove mine for outings, when lightly bolted on I could move them side by side and they would stay stationary where moved to.

Since you obviously like to run your SB, you might have to make a spacer plate to go under the relocate block.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:20 PM #4
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It's pretty damn centered, it's off by a mm or two towards the passenger's side (barely not touching on that side); but there's not much room there to begin with.

I've thought about a spacer, or even longer links; but I am not entirely sure if that will help. An alternative idea is to somehow spread the ends of the sway bar another 3~5 degrees as that would give me plenty of clearance; but I have no idea how I'd go about that...

I recall the Tacoma sway bars being a bit different and wider, but I don't have any take-offs laying around at work as far as I know...

Sway Bar Rubbing Coilovers-20160331_193204-jpgSway Bar Rubbing Coilovers-20160331_193120-jpg

I was aware of this when the vehicle flexed a bit before I put the 35's on, but I hadn't thought about it for a long time. Now that I am running something like 4.5~5 Caster, it's probably taken up any remaining clearance I might have had. I'm not to keen on running without a sway bar, while the 700lbs springs on the OLW 2.5" suspension is well balanced for the vehicle set-up; the body roll was too annoying and at times unnerving with how aggressive I can drive sometimes.

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Old 03-31-2016, 10:45 PM #5
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Quote:
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It's pretty damn centered, it's off by a mm or two towards the Driver's side; but there's not much room there to begin with.

I've thought about a spacer, or even longer links; but I am not entirely sure if that will help. An alternative idea is to somehow spread the ends of the sway bar another 3~5 degrees as that would give me plenty of clearance; but I have no idea how I'd go about that...

I recall the Tacoma sway bars being a bit different and wider, but I don't have any take-offs laying around at work as far as I know...

Attachment 198187
They look like they would be beating them by that shot. Do you leave the bar on when you wheel?

I have a mod day coming up on the 9th at my house with a bunch of Taco guys, I could make comparison with mine that's hanging in the garage for you.

Take some photos also if need be.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:53 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackWorksInc View Post
It's pretty damn centered, it's off by a mm or two towards the passenger's side (barely not touching on that side); but there's not much room there to begin with.

I've thought about a spacer, or even longer links; but I am not entirely sure if that will help. An alternative idea is to somehow spread the ends of the sway bar another 3~5 degrees as that would give me plenty of clearance; but I have no idea how I'd go about that...

I recall the Tacoma sway bars being a bit different and wider, but I don't have any take-offs laying around at work as far as I know...

Attachment 198187Attachment 198194

I was aware of this when the vehicle flexed a bit before I put the 35's on, but I hadn't thought about it for a long time. Now that I am running something like 4.5~5 Caster, it's probably taken up any remaining clearance I might have had. I'm not to keen on running without a sway bar, while the 700lbs springs on the OLW 2.5" suspension is well balanced for the vehicle set-up; the body roll was too annoying and at times unnerving with how aggressive I can drive sometimes.
Wondering if you were to put castor at 2.5 (low end of spec) to confirm if castor is creating an issue? It may not be perfect, but it would confirm suspicions about castor being your culprit? Just a thought...
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:54 PM #7
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They look like they would be beating them by that shot. Do you leave the bar on when you wheel?

I have a mod day coming up on the 9th at my house with a bunch of Taco guys, I could make comparison with mine that's hanging in the garage for you.

Take some photos also if need be.
That would be awesome... if it wouldn't be too much trouble to do a side by side of the 2nd Gen Tacoma and 4th Gen 4Runner bars.

The main issue as you can see in the pictures is that the very ends are not belled out enough. I've been trying to think of how I'd secure the bar and bend that leg out as that would solve the issue at this point, but that's something like 1.5" diameter 1/4" 4130 Chromoly steel...

Quote:
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Wondering if you were to put castor at 2.5 (low end of spec) to confirm if castor is creating an issue? It may not be perfect, but it would confirm suspicions about castor being your culprit? Just a thought...
I'm thinking the issue isn't specifically the Caster as the reason for the relocation brackets is due to how tightly the sway bar hugs the suspension in stock form (and these being larger than factory coilovers), but I do think that the increase positive Caster is bringing the springs closer to the swaybar (the Radflos come with special "directional" heim joint spacers to push the coilover end towards the rear of the mounting point, went through this with my buddy's FJ install and his sway bar had a bit more clearance than mine does now.) Also I wouldn't mind dropping the Caster to test that out, but the alignment tabs on my frame are very worn; I'm a bit afraid to touch the alignment right now because I have a feeling the tabs will just break beyond repair (I plan on upgrading to Total Chaos ones when I do the LCA bushings this year.)

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Old 03-31-2016, 10:55 PM #8
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this is interesting. It definitely looks like it could scrub the lower part of that spring. I dont personally run a sway so i cant check mine. I too am running 4-5* caster and noticed the loss of turning space for these 35s.

Easiest way is to unhook it and zip tie it up and drive around and drive like you would when you'd hear it. But you probably know this.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:05 PM #9
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this is interesting. It definitely looks like it could scrub the lower part of that spring. I dont personally run a sway so i cant check mine. I too am running 4-5* caster and noticed the loss of turning space for these 35s.

Easiest way is to unhook it and zip tie it up and drive around and drive like you would when you'd hear it. But you probably know this.
Planning on doing this tomorrow at work, I'll zap the links off and zip-tie it to the bumper and see if it goes away.

It's been catching the bottom edge of the spring for a while now on certain flex angles, it's never been a big bother to me as it happens rarely. But right now it seems to be rubbing that bar a lot to the point that driving around is "SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK!"
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:07 PM #10
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[QUOTE=BlackWorksInc;2317873]That would be awesome... if it wouldn't be too much trouble to do a side by side of the 2nd Gen Tacoma and 4th Gen 4Runner bars.

The main issue as you can see in the pictures is that the very ends are not belled out enough. I've been trying to think of how I'd secure the bar and bend that leg out as that would solve the issue at this point, but that's something like 1.5" diameter 1/4" 4130 Chromoly steel...

No problem, will do!

Bending them not so the problem, but, to make precise bends when you have multiple directions already in the bar already, let alone when adding more bend, what the change to the throw distance to the links would become is where I would be concerned.

Will look for you and may send a message to you that day also if any questions arise.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:08 PM #11
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Planning on doing this tomorrow at work, I'll zap the links off and zip-tie it to the bumper and see if it goes away.

It's been catching the bottom edge of the spring for a while now on certain flex angles, it's never been a big bother to me as it happens rarely. But right now it seems to be rubbing that bar a lot to the point that driving around is "SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK!"
my rear lower links are squeaking like that now with every bump. I know that pain.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:10 PM #12
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Well if I pulled the ends out a few degrees the sway bar links would sit closer to 90 degrees than the somewhat canted in angle they are now; that shouldn't cause any issues on the suspension as that all sits well within the scrub angle of tires. The thing that becomes an issue is as you mentioned, how to secure the bar in a way that I can control the part I want to bend.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:21 PM #13
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Put the bar in a vise prior to the spot to bend, put heat on it and take a boxed end wrench and slide to the area that you want to bend comes to mind.

When I was younger, we always didn't have all the tools like these days and made do with what we had. Some of the things we done back then amazed us.

The end links having dual pivits should help with what your describing also.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:33 PM #14
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Put the bar in a vise prior to the spot to bend, put heat on it and take a boxed end wrench and slide to the area that you want to bend comes to mind.

When I was younger, we always didn't have all the tools like these days and made do with what we had. Some of the things we done back then amazed us.

The end links having dual pivits should help with what your describing also.
The only issue I have with warming the bar up to bend it is that I don't want to anneal it too much. Theoretically it's 4130 Chromoly (based on research I did when doing my prototype disconnecting sway bar), which is a hardened steel; if I heat it up enough to make it more pliable to bend, I might be annealing it too much and ruining the bar unless I have it re-treated. The bar is also hollow, so I have to make sure I don't collapse it; though I doubt I would since it's something like 1/4" ~1/2" thick walled tubing.


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Old 03-31-2016, 11:58 PM #15
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I understand your concerns. Sounds like if the Taco bar doesn't work for you, there's that other saying.... Pick the least of the evils, bend it, remove it, or live with it. Take you pick.

And if I was you and prefer it keep it. Bend it. That's if the Taco bar isn't wider, spacer the block, or seeing if changing your caster works. Not to many choices other than having a custom one made$$$$.

EDIT... So you cut open perfectly good bar just to see.... LOL.
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