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Old 04-05-2016, 09:16 PM #1
04run&gun 04run&gun is offline
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flat ome lift

Hey all. Sorry to drag this old one out but I'm about to fire the debt card. First off, i rock an 04 sr5 v6. I know that the ome spring ratings are for for the v8 weight. I'm going to order 5100 billies all around, (all 5) adjustable rear links, toytec superflex 2" rear springs. How ever for the front I need some verification/advice please. I do not want a spacer on top of the ome coils. I want to avoid spacers of any kind but I want the front to be a little higher than what appears to be average. I do however want to go the less expensive rout and go with ome. Any additional weight won't be too soon and it will go like that old Johnny Cash song.....one piece at a time. 1st would be an additional battery then roof rack, rock guards, rear bumper and swing out and probably a concealed winch before a dmello style front bumper. Anyway, I'm finding a true 3/2 still has a slightly higher rear lift. What I'm trying achieve will hopefully get the distance from my fender to tire the same on both my front and rear. I believe this will also make the weather stripping at the bottom of my side Windows sit level which in my opinion will look like a flat lift/levelling kit.
I'm turning up so many mixed reviews on what rate spring combined with what notch on the 5100s. I will get a different drop kit if I get above 3". Should I try the 885s on 0 or .85 or the 886s on 0 or .85? It seems like 3.5 would be more satisfying with 2" in back to me. Thank you everyone.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:46 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04run&gun View Post
I'm going to order 5100 billies all around, (all 5)
Let me know how that works!

Just so you know, the same distance between your wheels and fenders puts you slightly higher in the front, the running boards and the frame will show this. This is because the rear fender sits higher than the front fender. Adding 3+ inches to the front with 5100s and a demello bumper won't ride the best either.

Doing all this without a spacer, OME 886 will probably be your best bet.

I could be wrong, hopefully someone here has more experience with this than I.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:11 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm View Post
Let me know how that works!

Just so you know, the same distance between your wheels and fenders puts you slightly higher in the front, the running boards and the frame will show this. This is because the rear fender sits higher than the front fender. Adding 3+ inches to the front with 5100s and a demello bumper won't ride the best either.

Doing all this without a spacer, OME 886 will probably be your best bet.

I could be wrong, hopefully someone here has more experience with this than I.
See I was almost thinking 886s probably with the bilstein on 0 right?
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:14 PM #4
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And there is a , before my (all 5) which was referring to adjustable rear links.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:42 PM #5
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Why not just get the full OME 884 / Toytec RCC 2.0 with the recomended OME strut? You can get all of this for under a grand from Toytec. You won't have the adjustability of the Billies, but I think you would have a good looking level appearing T4r. If you try to get the same gap between front and rear fender and wheel your T4r will appear to have the notorious drooping T4r rear end.

I have the V-8 and I went with the 885 springs and opted for the RCC 2.0 HD springs. The HD springs are 1/2" taller than OME or RCC2.0 and 15% stiffer than the RCC2.0.

The 894 and 895 are the same height, but the spring rate is a little stiffer on the 895. I am not planning on running an aftermarket bumper or I would have opted for the 886 which is stiffer yet.

I tow a PUP and rarely have my cargo space empty (kids, gear, cargo)which is why I opted for the taller stiffer (not as stiff as OME) rear spring. I have more space between rear fender and wheel than the front, but my running boards are level!

My .02
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:51 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder_Hound View Post
Why not just get the full OME 884 / Toytec RCC 2.0 with the recomended OME strut? You can get all of this for under a grand from Toytec. You won't have the adjustability of the Billies, but I think you would have a good looking level appearing T4r. If you try to get the same gap between front and rear fender and wheel your T4r will appear to have the notorious drooping T4r rear end.

I have the V-8 and I went with the 885 springs and opted for the RCC 2.0 HD springs. The HD springs are 1/2" taller than OME or RCC2.0 and 15% stiffer than the RCC2.0.

The 894 and 895 are the same height, but the spring rate is a little stiffer on the 895. I am not planning on running an aftermarket bumper or I would have opted for the 886 which is stiffer yet.

I tow a PUP and rarely have my cargo space empty (kids, gear, cargo)which is why I opted for the taller stiffer (not as stiff as OME) rear spring. I have more space between rear fender and wheel than the front, but my running boards are level!

My .02
Some great advice, thank you. I think I'll just do 885s on account of stiff ride from 886s. I've read that ome shocks are stiffer than 5100s. I roll empty 90% of the time and I pack light on account of no children. I haven't considered ome rear coils at all because of the reviews of the travel prvided by the superflexs. And as of now my cart at toytec has the 885s, toytec superflexs, 4 billies and extended rear breaklines and my price is at 859$ wheras the ready to go ome kit is 875$ - the extended rear breaklines. I am pinching pennies hard enough to stretch copper wire I know but I want to get the adjustable rear links as well.
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:15 AM #7
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I have more space between rear fender and wheel than the front
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:01 AM #8
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Unless you're getting aftermarket upper control arms as well, I would not suggest going over 3" lift. With the v6, 884s will give right at 3" lift. The 885s are the same rate but taller, meant for 3" on a v8 4runner. On the v6 they will give 3.5", maybe more.

Coil Rates: OEM 4runner, OEM FJ, Moog, & Others

Have you considered a bit less lift in the rear? Personally, I'd suggest 884s in the front with Wheelers 1.5" rear coils. From a visual and clearance perspective, 1/2" is negligible. However, staying at/under 3" Will make a huge difference in the alignment with stock control arms.

Wheeler's T12 Rear Coil Spring Pair
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:04 AM #9
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Food for thought. I run OME 885/895 on a '08 v6. Roof rack, aftermarket step bars, and demello front bumper. My rear sits slightly higher than the front (about an inch, which I prefer). The demello bumper only dropped the front end 1/4" maybe. If you plan to get a rear bumper first it would be heavier than the front bumper for sure, even after the demello front (which is much lighter than most). Also, when you get these things level, they tend to look front high and back end saggy due to the fender flares as others have mentioned. In addition, if you ever tow anything, your headlights will be facing the trees.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:26 AM #10
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I run billies all around with ome 886/896. The front are set on the third notch. I'm sitting level with my v8 in not a hair taller in the front. With a roof rack and spare. My (possible cbi) bumper with be on order soon. Should be flat leveled once I get that one.
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:21 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARK_SWAMP_RIDER View Post
Unless you're getting aftermarket upper control arms as well, I would not suggest going over 3" lift. With the v6, 884s will give right at 3" lift. The 885s are the same rate but taller, meant for 3" on a v8 4runner. On the v6 they will give 3.5", maybe more.

Coil Rates: OEM 4runner, OEM FJ, Moog, & Others

Have you considered a bit less lift in the rear? Personally, I'd suggest 884s in the front with Wheelers 1.5" rear coils. From a visual and clearance perspective, 1/2" is negligible. However, staying at/under 3" Will make a huge difference in the alignment with stock control arms.

Wheeler's T12 Rear Coil Spring Pair
Thanks for the clarification on the spring rates @ARK_SWAMP_RIDER comparing 884 and 885's. I thought, based off of memory, they were same height, but with different spring rates.

It's also a great point on the alignment. I have the V-8 with 885's and I can only get Castor to .5 which is well below spec and in certain situations, on road, she floats a little. I will be getting aftermarket (leaning towards Total Chaos) UCA's later this year.
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:01 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARK_SWAMP_RIDER View Post
Unless you're getting aftermarket upper control arms as well, I would not suggest going over 3" lift. With the v6, 884s will give right at 3" lift. The 885s are the same rate but taller, meant for 3" on a v8 4runner. On the v6 they will give 3.5", maybe more.

Coil Rates: OEM 4runner, OEM FJ, Moog, & Others

Have you considered a bit less lift in the rear? Personally, I'd suggest 884s in the front with Wheelers 1.5" rear coils. From a visual and clearance perspective, 1/2" is negligible. However, staying at/under 3" Will make a huge difference in the alignment with stock control arms.

Wheeler's T12 Rear Coil Spring Pair
Thank you everyone. I do already have after market uca's. I have considered the inch and a half rear sway away coils. My goal is freeing up the articulation of the rear 4 link as much as possible and I'm afraid if I don't go with the 3/2 I wont be satisfied overall. I started of with a daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer with after market uca's and while the 265/70s look better with less lift they still rub with my rim offset. I think the 3.25-3.50 in front with the diff drop kit will be fine with 2" in back. Should I leave the bilstein @ 0 or .85

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Old 04-06-2016, 04:49 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04run&gun View Post
Thank you everyone. I do already have after market uca's. I have considered the inch and a half rear sway away coils. My goal is freeing up the articulation of the rear 4 link as much as possible and I'm afraid if I don't go with the 3/2 I wont be satisfied overall. I started of with a daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer with after market uca's and while the 265/70s look better with less lift they still rub with my rim offset. I think the 3.25-3.50 in front with the diff drop kit will be fine with 2" in back. Should I leave the bilstein @ 0 or .85
Recommended by the manufacturer to leave the 5100 at zero with lift springs. You do realize that 2" springs will allow for the same exact travel as 1.5" springs? Its your 5100s that will limit you.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:30 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm View Post
Recommended by the manufacturer to leave the 5100 at zero with lift springs. You do realize that 2" springs will allow for the same exact travel as 1.5" springs? Its your 5100s that will limit you.
I did not realize that. I thought the longer the spring the more travel. Especially if one doesn't stuff huge tires on the rig. I did know that the manufacturer recommends the zero setting but have read about some going to .85
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:40 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04run&gun View Post
Thank you everyone. I do already have after market uca's. I have considered the inch and a half rear sway away coils. My goal is freeing up the articulation of the rear 4 link as much as possible and I'm afraid if I don't go with the 3/2 I wont be satisfied overall. I started of with a daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer with after market uca's and while the 265/70s look better with less lift they still rub with my rim offset. I think the 3.25-3.50 in front with the diff drop kit will be fine with 2" in back. Should I leave the bilstein @ 0 or .85
In that case, the 885/Superflex combo should work well. If using the 885s, definitely keep the 5100s at the lowest setting.
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